Working on coop design...

[Amber Lu]

Hi all. My 4 birds are about 2 weeks old, and we have some nice weather, so I am trying to figure out getting some coop construction done. We might want to add two more birds before spring is over.

I have a space next to my shed that is basically a small covered cement slab.

The chicken coop will be under this roof, while the run will be a 5x10 space behind the shed, as well as a 2x25 tunnel along the back fence.

 

[junior67]

if there is any way to make it bigger then try to make it bigger. I was going to build mine 4x8 since I was getting 8 chickens last year... I was told on this site to make it bigger so I made it 8x8 (now wishing I made it even bigger than that). I ended up adding on 2 more chicks to my order so it was at 10. 1 passed away at 9 weeks, 1 was a roo that I re-homed, and 1 a roo that I kept so I now have 8........ I am getting more chicks this year and sad that I am limited on what I can get for the space I have. haahaa. chicken math is real!

 

[Happy hen lover]

Only need 2 nest boxes. My 4 hens only use one box. On a rare occasion there is one girl in there and they are forced to use other one. Other than that it looks great.

 

[aart]

Yes top-lifting lids let in a lot of rain.but now that I remember the boxes in drawing ARE exterior and do have a pitched lid so that solves rain issues as long as seams are sealed?( don't know how easy that would be with lid up design) anyway pitched top is good idea IMHO.

The pitched lid/top is good, but it's the hinge in a top access nest taht usually causes leakage.
Why it's better to have a side access for gathering eggs, and top that is pitched with large over hangs.

 

[aart]

I am going back to the drawing board a bit, but just to be clear, this is underneath a traditional patio roof that is about 4.5ft deep, so the entire structure will be sheltered.

Then it probably doesn't matter how you access the nests.

I am thinking about rather than raising it, putting it directly on the concrete slab for ease of cleaning.

That could work, if you want to be stooped over or on your knees while cleaning.

 

[My Bagurks]

Looks like a great design. I’m my experience, it’s better to overbuild than under. The coop and run would definitely make 4 chickens happy, but it’ll be getting close to cramped with 6 or more. My birds love spreading out more in the summer. Specially in the summer.

If space allows, maybe think about adding another perch. Chickens will establish their pecking order and clicks, so some may not want to sleep next to others. Giving extra perch space will give them any personal space they may need and prevent a timid chicken sleeping on the ground.

The coop is 21 square feet. A lot of people agree on 3sqft per chicken. As with a lot with chickens, that’s not concrete. But again err on the side of extra space.

I started out with 10 and got up above 40 at one point. I had to redesign several times. You are definitely on the right track. And if it turns out as nice as the plans look, it’ll be a beautiful coop and make for some happy chickens.

Good luck.

 

[3KillerBs]

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

This coop was designed to meet all the minimums for a flock of 4: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

Your coop as designed is going to be difficult to build because lumber and sheet goods come in standard dimensions that are multiples of 4 feet. You can get 6-foot lengths conveniently by cutting 12-foot boards in half, but every 5-foot board means cutting 3 feet off an 8-foot board and wasting it.

I strongly suggest redesigning to make the coop fit lumber dimensions better so that you'll save money and have an easier time with the cuts.

I did not realize that the nesting space was included in the size of the coop. That's cool. =D

No, the nestboxes do not count as part of the available space in the coop. The 4 square feet per bird recommendation is clear floor space not taken up by nests, food/water, or other interior structures.

 

[3KillerBs]

If I use crates on their sides for the nest boxes inside, does the space on top of the boxes count as floor space?

No, I'm afraid not. Only unobstructed floor space is floor space.

External nests are the best option when you're tight on space -- but use a front drop-down opening rather than a top-lifting lid because the lids are notorious for leaking on the seams.

 

[rosemarythyme]

If I use crates on their sides for the nest boxes inside, does the space on top of the boxes count as floor space?

No - best to elevate the boxes off the floor, high enough that chickens can walk around underneath, if you need to conserve floor space.

And up to 6 chickens can easily share 2 nest boxes (realistically they'll show preference for one).

 

[Happy hen lover]

No, I'm afraid not. Only unobstructed floor space is floor space.

External nests are the best option when you're tight on space -- but use a front drop-down opening rather than a top-lifting lid because the lids are notorious for leaking on the seams.

Yes top-lifting lids let in a lot of rain.but now that I remember the boxes in drawing ARE exterior and do have a pitched lid so that solves rain issues as long as seams are sealed?( don't know how easy that would be with lid up design) anyway pitched top is good idea IMHO.