Working on coop design...

Amber Lu

Chirping
Feb 4, 2022
58
191
96
Portland, OR
Hi all. My 4 birds are about 2 weeks old, and we have some nice weather, so I am trying to figure out getting some coop construction done. We might want to add two more birds before spring is over.

I have a space next to my shed that is basically a small covered cement slab.

The chicken coop will be under this roof, while the run will be a 5x10 space behind the shed, as well as a 2x25 tunnel along the back fence.

20220210_155535.jpg
 
Looks like a great design. I’m my experience, it’s better to overbuild than under. The coop and run would definitely make 4 chickens happy, but it’ll be getting close to cramped with 6 or more. My birds love spreading out more in the summer. Specially in the summer.

If space allows, maybe think about adding another perch. Chickens will establish their pecking order and clicks, so some may not want to sleep next to others. Giving extra perch space will give them any personal space they may need and prevent a timid chicken sleeping on the ground.

The coop is 21 square feet. A lot of people agree on 3sqft per chicken. As with a lot with chickens, that’s not concrete. But again err on the side of extra space.

I started out with 10 and got up above 40 at one point. I had to redesign several times. You are definitely on the right track. And if it turns out as nice as the plans look, it’ll be a beautiful coop and make for some happy chickens.

Good luck.
 
Looks like a great design. I’m my experience, it’s better to overbuild than under. The coop and run would definitely make 4 chickens happy, but it’ll be getting close to cramped with 6 or more. My birds love spreading out more in the summer. Specially in the summer.

If space allows, maybe think about adding another perch. Chickens will establish their pecking order and clicks, so some may not want to sleep next to others. Giving extra perch space will give them any personal space they may need and prevent a timid chicken sleeping on the ground.

The coop is 21 square feet. A lot of people agree on 3sqft per chicken. As with a lot with chickens, that’s not concrete. But again err on the side of extra space.

I started out with 10 and got up above 40 at one point. I had to redesign several times. You are definitely on the right track. And if it turns out as nice as the plans look, it’ll be a beautiful coop and make for some happy chickens.

Good luck.
I did not realize that the nesting space was included in the size of the coop. That's cool. =D
 
The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:
  • 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
  • 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
  • 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
  • 1/4 of a nest box,
  • And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
This coop was designed to meet all the minimums for a flock of 4: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

Your coop as designed is going to be difficult to build because lumber and sheet goods come in standard dimensions that are multiples of 4 feet. You can get 6-foot lengths conveniently by cutting 12-foot boards in half, but every 5-foot board means cutting 3 feet off an 8-foot board and wasting it. :(

I strongly suggest redesigning to make the coop fit lumber dimensions better so that you'll save money and have an easier time with the cuts. :)

I did not realize that the nesting space was included in the size of the coop. That's cool. =D

No, the nestboxes do not count as part of the available space in the coop. The 4 square feet per bird recommendation is clear floor space not taken up by nests, food/water, or other interior structures. :)
 
The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:
  • 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
  • 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
  • 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
  • 1/4 of a nest box,
  • And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
This coop was designed to meet all the minimums for a flock of 4: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

Your coop as designed is going to be difficult to build because lumber and sheet goods come in standard dimensions that are multiples of 4 feet. You can get 6-foot lengths conveniently by cutting 12-foot boards in half, but every 5-foot board means cutting 3 feet off an 8-foot board and wasting it. :(

I strongly suggest redesigning to make the coop fit lumber dimensions better so that you'll save money and have an easier time with the cuts. :)



No, the nestboxes do not count as part of the available space in the coop. The 4 square feet per bird recommendation is clear floor space not taken up by nests, food/water, or other interior structures. :)
Thank you so much for the hints!

I am working with a specific space that is just less than 4 feet deep and maximum 6 feet wide. Most of my supplies are salvaged or left over supplies from a porch build and when we put a new floor down. I know that I will probably wind up with some waste, but I want to make it fit the concrete slab and under the shelter that I have.

If I use crates on their sides for the nest boxes inside, does the space on top of the boxes count as floor space?
Thank you again.
 
If I use crates on their sides for the nest boxes inside, does the space on top of the boxes count as floor space?
No - best to elevate the boxes off the floor, high enough that chickens can walk around underneath, if you need to conserve floor space.

And up to 6 chickens can easily share 2 nest boxes (realistically they'll show preference for one).
 
If I use crates on their sides for the nest boxes inside, does the space on top of the boxes count as floor space?

No, I'm afraid not. Only unobstructed floor space is floor space.

External nests are the best option when you're tight on space -- but use a front drop-down opening rather than a top-lifting lid because the lids are notorious for leaking on the seams. :)
 
No, I'm afraid not. Only unobstructed floor space is floor space.

External nests are the best option when you're tight on space -- but use a front drop-down opening rather than a top-lifting lid because the lids are notorious for leaking on the seams. :)
Yes top-lifting lids let in a lot of rain.but now that I remember the boxes in drawing ARE exterior and do have a pitched lid so that solves rain issues as long as seams are sealed?( don't know how easy that would be with lid up design) anyway pitched top is good idea IMHO.
 
Last edited:

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom