Worming with Valbazen

As far as oral Valbazen, I've always been told 1/2 cc/ml for a LF adult, 1/4 cc for an adult bantam, re-dosed in 2 weeks, which is what I've always done. @casportpony , is this correct or should I up the dosage when I worm?
I have found some conflicting data on this. Some of my books say to treat capillary worms at 50 mg/kg (0.2 ml,per pound), some vets say 10 mg/kg, some vets say 20 mg/kg, so who knows.
 
I got my information from Pine Grove (William Bennett, long time breeder and NPIP tester for my state). This is a quote from him on another thread:

I't doesn't matter, Diluted, Undiluted or on bread. The effects are the same..just whatever way is simplest for you..Most find giving 1/2 cc undiluted is the easiest way..Peter's idea behind mixing it with water is for better gut coverage..I't works either way, but 1/2 cc is eaiser to give than 2 cc's
 
I got my information from Pine Grove (William Bennett, long time breeder and NPIP tester for my state). This is a quote from him on another thread:
The 1/2 ml per bird is based on 20 mg/kg I think, so that would be fine for a six pound bird, One of my pet peeves is this sort of recommendation because many times a laying hen weighs more or less.

No offense to Pine Grove, or any of the other peopl that have posted about the 1/2 ml dose, but IMO, all birds should be dosed based on their weight.

Example... What if you have a skinny leghorn? What would it get? Or a big fat Cochin?
 
The 1/2 ml per bird is based on 20 mg/kg I think, so that would be fine for a six pound bird, One of my pet peeves is this sort of recommendation because many times a laying hen weighs more or less.

No offense to Pine Grove, or any of the other peopl that have posted about the 1/2 ml dose, but IMO, all birds should be dosed based on their weight.

Example... What if you have a skinny leghorn? What would it get? Or a big fat Cochin?

They do vary a lot in weight, but most folks don't seem to have a way to weigh birds. Many bathroom scales won't even register that much weight if you place a bird on it and I find that many are so inaccurate, it wouldn't matter anyway. Even the pick the bird up, weigh yourself, put it down and weigh yourself again did not work on my old scales, not sure on the new ones. I don't have a lot of idea the difference in weights of my birds, only that I have a few very heavy ones and some that barely weigh 5 lbs. Of course, the Belgian D'Anvers weigh less than 2 lb and are within ounces of each other, including the rooster.
I pretty much go on most everything that William suggests to me since he's been breeding and raising chickens as long as I've been alive (and I'm a long way down the road from 30 years old, LOL), which is why the 1/2 cc. If you go on average weights, I'd think generally, you'd be fine in worming, but they lose and gain weight, of course. I'm not going to weigh mine, not having a reliable way to do it, (and, even if I could, what a royal pain to weigh each and every one of my 40 birds, especially the ones that want to fight me when I try to pick them up, geez) but I guess I'm asking if you think that 1/2 cc undiluted Valbazen right in the mouth is adequate for an average 7-8 lb laying hen or if I should up that to a full cc, Kathy? Maybe a 1/2 cc would be okay for the leaner ones like my Ameraucana hens and a full cc for the chunky-monkeys? I'm just not weighing all those birds, especially if it means me or DH has to do the get on-get-off, pick up the bird-do it again-route. Yep, doing it the easy way. It's hard enough just doing it at all for me. :p
 
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I live in Houston, I see you live in Humble, where do you get the Valbazen? I am newt o chickens, so wondering where to buy it & how much to give them, and how offten. My girls are 8 weeks old.
 
I live in Houston, I see you live in Humble, where do you get the Valbazen? I am newt o chickens, so wondering where to buy it & how much to give them, and how offten. My girls are 8 weeks old.

I wouldn't think 8 week old chicks would need to be wormed. Have you seen worms?
 
8 weeks is pretty early to worm. In general you don't need to worm unless you see symptoms, and it's always best to have a fecal float test done first to confirm and identify the type of worms you are dealing with. Most worms will not be visible, it takes a microscope. If you find you have an ongoing worm issue then regularly scheduled wormings are sometimes called for. Most people can get by with once or twice a year, some need to do more often, every flock is different. Since it sounds like these are your only birds currently, I would wait until they are a bit older (unless you see symptoms of something), get a fecal float test done somewhere between 15 and 20 weeks and go from there. If there is no evidence of worms then I would just keep an eye out for symptoms and maybe test once or twice a year. Some vets will do the test even if they don't see birds (same test for all animals) some will not, you just provide a fresh sample of droppings. A poster earlier this week posted about this, which is another option : https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petco...TC_P_WEB_CJ_FY16_2617611-_-8347138-_-11030085
I can't speak for it as I haven't used it. Yet.
 

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