don't know if this will help but here is a poop chart http://www.chat.allotment.org.uk/index.php?topic=17568.0
WORMS HELP!!!!!
- Thread starter mrsmartin2001
- Start date
- Aug 2, 2009
- 69
- 1
- 29
Quote:
Thank you for the kind words..
Poor baby just panicked when his air got cut off..The fright was too much for him to withstand.. I have momentarily had MY air cut off, and I know the horrible feeling and terror it causes.. I just had the advantage of knowing if I forced myself to relax, I could clear my airway..
Today was the best day he had out of the last week, until that happened..
Well...again, I thank you for your words, and for all your help..
Thank you for the kind words..
Poor baby just panicked when his air got cut off..The fright was too much for him to withstand.. I have momentarily had MY air cut off, and I know the horrible feeling and terror it causes.. I just had the advantage of knowing if I forced myself to relax, I could clear my airway..
Today was the best day he had out of the last week, until that happened..
Well...again, I thank you for your words, and for all your help..
Quote:
What is the situation with your chicken, exactly? Maybe we can help. What symptoms are you seeing, what makes you think it's worms, etc?
By the way, you'll rarely ever see them pass worms as it's the worm's "job" to stay inside the chicken (where they can live) and expell their infective eggs. Also some worms are larval and are in places other than the digestive tract, so you sure won't see them there.
The only really effective way to "see" if your birds haven't worms, or rather haven't much of an infestation at all, is by doing a "fecal egg count". Feces are examined under a microscope by a qualified vet tech for eggs shed. That is a better indication of who's shedding them.
Now, if you see a worm in the droppings, you know that there's a problem. (Unless you've just used a wormer - then you know your wormer is really outdoing itself on doing its job.) In those cases, I always always always use Wazine first.
In fact, I only use wazine if:
- The bird is under four months old (then I only use Wazine)
- The bird is thin and/or has diarrhea
- The bird hasn't been wormed with in over 6 months
- The bird has an unknown worming history
- The bird or flock has shed a worm
Wazine only paralyzes and expels adult worms, not larvae. It's the most conservative approach as it's least likely to cause a heavily infested bird to go into shock or clog. That's why I use it in the above cases. But since it only paralyzes adults, its design is to be repeated as it leaves larva. So instead of repeating with Wazine, I repeat with a more broad spectrum wormer that kills (not just paralyzes) both adults and larva. Those would be ivermectin (pour-on for cattle 5%), eprinomectin pour-on, fenbendazole (Wormazole is one form - there are many), Valbazen, or levamisole. I tend towards fenben and ivermectin (generic). That way I do my best to stop the cycle. Then I worm twice annually with the broad-spectrum.
I also do sometimes use more natural products inbetween in hopes of reducing numbers. These products do not directly kill or paralyze worms, nor do they treat an infestation, but they can possibly either indirectly kill parasites in the digestive tract (not elsewhere) or possibly repel them. Maybe. It's worth a shot to me.
DE food grade only in the feed less than 2% of total food weight, not bulk.
Cayenne sprinkled on the feed daily.
VermX, a self-proclaimed worm repeller used 3 consecutive days a month. (they won't email me back exactly what worms their product expels, and their literature never claims to, but it could be very handy stuff if you know what it's forte' is)
There's some info for you. If you reply, I hope we can help you with your boy.
Hello Three Horses (I hope you get this!?),
I had a question. I need to worm my chickens I saw a worm today
I am going with your advice to give the wazine first then one of the others mentioned afterward. I have not bought the products yet, I hope to get to the feed store tonight or tomm.
-How long to do give Wazine in the water? How many days? (I have 12 chickens)
-Then after giving the Wazine do I have to wait to give the fenbendosoles or one of the other wormers? Or give it right after I am finished with the Wazine treatment?
-How long should I not eat the eggs when I do this?
Thanks so much!
What is the situation with your chicken, exactly? Maybe we can help. What symptoms are you seeing, what makes you think it's worms, etc?
By the way, you'll rarely ever see them pass worms as it's the worm's "job" to stay inside the chicken (where they can live) and expell their infective eggs. Also some worms are larval and are in places other than the digestive tract, so you sure won't see them there.
The only really effective way to "see" if your birds haven't worms, or rather haven't much of an infestation at all, is by doing a "fecal egg count". Feces are examined under a microscope by a qualified vet tech for eggs shed. That is a better indication of who's shedding them.
Now, if you see a worm in the droppings, you know that there's a problem. (Unless you've just used a wormer - then you know your wormer is really outdoing itself on doing its job.) In those cases, I always always always use Wazine first.
In fact, I only use wazine if:
- The bird is under four months old (then I only use Wazine)
- The bird is thin and/or has diarrhea
- The bird hasn't been wormed with in over 6 months
- The bird has an unknown worming history
- The bird or flock has shed a worm
Wazine only paralyzes and expels adult worms, not larvae. It's the most conservative approach as it's least likely to cause a heavily infested bird to go into shock or clog. That's why I use it in the above cases. But since it only paralyzes adults, its design is to be repeated as it leaves larva. So instead of repeating with Wazine, I repeat with a more broad spectrum wormer that kills (not just paralyzes) both adults and larva. Those would be ivermectin (pour-on for cattle 5%), eprinomectin pour-on, fenbendazole (Wormazole is one form - there are many), Valbazen, or levamisole. I tend towards fenben and ivermectin (generic). That way I do my best to stop the cycle. Then I worm twice annually with the broad-spectrum.
I also do sometimes use more natural products inbetween in hopes of reducing numbers. These products do not directly kill or paralyze worms, nor do they treat an infestation, but they can possibly either indirectly kill parasites in the digestive tract (not elsewhere) or possibly repel them. Maybe. It's worth a shot to me.
DE food grade only in the feed less than 2% of total food weight, not bulk.
Cayenne sprinkled on the feed daily.
VermX, a self-proclaimed worm repeller used 3 consecutive days a month. (they won't email me back exactly what worms their product expels, and their literature never claims to, but it could be very handy stuff if you know what it's forte' is)
There's some info for you. If you reply, I hope we can help you with your boy.
Hello Three Horses (I hope you get this!?),
I had a question. I need to worm my chickens I saw a worm today
-How long to do give Wazine in the water? How many days? (I have 12 chickens)
-Then after giving the Wazine do I have to wait to give the fenbendosoles or one of the other wormers? Or give it right after I am finished with the Wazine treatment?
-How long should I not eat the eggs when I do this?
Thanks so much!
Quote:
What is the situation with your chicken, exactly? Maybe we can help. What symptoms are you seeing, what makes you think it's worms, etc?
By the way, you'll rarely ever see them pass worms as it's the worm's "job" to stay inside the chicken (where they can live) and expell their infective eggs. Also some worms are larval and are in places other than the digestive tract, so you sure won't see them there.
The only really effective way to "see" if your birds haven't worms, or rather haven't much of an infestation at all, is by doing a "fecal egg count". Feces are examined under a microscope by a qualified vet tech for eggs shed. That is a better indication of who's shedding them.
Now, if you see a worm in the droppings, you know that there's a problem. (Unless you've just used a wormer - then you know your wormer is really outdoing itself on doing its job.) In those cases, I always always always use Wazine first.
In fact, I only use wazine if:
- The bird is under four months old (then I only use Wazine)
- The bird is thin and/or has diarrhea
- The bird hasn't been wormed with in over 6 months
- The bird has an unknown worming history
- The bird or flock has shed a worm
Wazine only paralyzes and expels adult worms, not larvae. It's the most conservative approach as it's least likely to cause a heavily infested bird to go into shock or clog. That's why I use it in the above cases. But since it only paralyzes adults, its design is to be repeated as it leaves larva. So instead of repeating with Wazine, I repeat with a more broad spectrum wormer that kills (not just paralyzes) both adults and larva. Those would be ivermectin (pour-on for cattle 5%), eprinomectin pour-on, fenbendazole (Wormazole is one form - there are many), Valbazen, or levamisole. I tend towards fenben and ivermectin (generic). That way I do my best to stop the cycle. Then I worm twice annually with the broad-spectrum.
I also do sometimes use more natural products inbetween in hopes of reducing numbers. These products do not directly kill or paralyze worms, nor do they treat an infestation, but they can possibly either indirectly kill parasites in the digestive tract (not elsewhere) or possibly repel them. Maybe. It's worth a shot to me.
DE food grade only in the feed less than 2% of total food weight, not bulk.
Cayenne sprinkled on the feed daily.
VermX, a self-proclaimed worm repeller used 3 consecutive days a month. (they won't email me back exactly what worms their product expels, and their literature never claims to, but it could be very handy stuff if you know what it's forte' is)
There's some info for you. If you reply, I hope we can help you with your boy.
Hello Three Horses (I hope you get this!?),
I had a question. I need to worm my chickens I saw a worm today
I am going with your advice to give the wazine first then one of the others mentioned afterward. I have not bought the products yet, I hope to get to the feed store tonight or tomm.
-How long to do give Wazine in the water? How many days? (I have 12 chickens)
-Then after giving the Wazine do I have to wait to give the fenbendosoles or one of the other wormers? Or give it right after I am finished with the Wazine treatment?
-How long should I not eat the eggs when I do this?
Thanks so much!
CaliBlueChicken. Threehorses hasnt been here in quite awhile. I'll be happy to answer your questions. I know how much you believe in using organics...unfortunately most of them dont work against worms. Wazine dosage is one ounce mixed in one gallon of water. Leave it out for 24 hours straight for them to drink. It's best to put it out first thing in the morning when you first let them out of their house, that is when they are more thirsty and will drink the water. After 24 hours, discard the water and provide your chickens with regular freshwater. Discard the eggs for 14 days, dont give them back to the chickens to eat, you'll be extending the withdrawal period. You can give the eggs to your dog(s) if you wish, wazine is ineffective with dogs. In 14 days you'll need to reworm your chickens. You can choose Valbazen(albendazole) a cattle/sheep wormer, Safeguard paste(fenbendazole) an equine wormer or Safeguard liquid goat wormer. Dosage for the liquid valbazen is 1/2cc orally for large chickens and 1/4cc for smaller chickens. Dosage for the Safeguard paste is a "pea" sized amount given to each chicken orally. It's best to put it on a small piece of bread and give a piece to each chicken. I highly recommend seperating your chickens when you do this because they will try and steal each others piece of bread, then you wont know who got properly wormed. Dosage for Safeguard liquid goat wormer is 3cc per gallon of water. Leave it out 3 days for them to drink, then discard. All these wormers have an additional 14 day withdrawal period. There is a 4th wormer that you can use and it has an added benefit in that it kills most lice and mites too. Eprinex is a cattle wormer and doesnt have a withdrawl period. Dosage is 1/2cc for large chickens and 1/4cc for small chickens. You must put the liquid on the bare skin on the back of the neck of the chickens where it is absorbed into the bloodstream. Hope this helps.
What is the situation with your chicken, exactly? Maybe we can help. What symptoms are you seeing, what makes you think it's worms, etc?
By the way, you'll rarely ever see them pass worms as it's the worm's "job" to stay inside the chicken (where they can live) and expell their infective eggs. Also some worms are larval and are in places other than the digestive tract, so you sure won't see them there.
The only really effective way to "see" if your birds haven't worms, or rather haven't much of an infestation at all, is by doing a "fecal egg count". Feces are examined under a microscope by a qualified vet tech for eggs shed. That is a better indication of who's shedding them.
Now, if you see a worm in the droppings, you know that there's a problem. (Unless you've just used a wormer - then you know your wormer is really outdoing itself on doing its job.) In those cases, I always always always use Wazine first.
In fact, I only use wazine if:
- The bird is under four months old (then I only use Wazine)
- The bird is thin and/or has diarrhea
- The bird hasn't been wormed with in over 6 months
- The bird has an unknown worming history
- The bird or flock has shed a worm
Wazine only paralyzes and expels adult worms, not larvae. It's the most conservative approach as it's least likely to cause a heavily infested bird to go into shock or clog. That's why I use it in the above cases. But since it only paralyzes adults, its design is to be repeated as it leaves larva. So instead of repeating with Wazine, I repeat with a more broad spectrum wormer that kills (not just paralyzes) both adults and larva. Those would be ivermectin (pour-on for cattle 5%), eprinomectin pour-on, fenbendazole (Wormazole is one form - there are many), Valbazen, or levamisole. I tend towards fenben and ivermectin (generic). That way I do my best to stop the cycle. Then I worm twice annually with the broad-spectrum.
I also do sometimes use more natural products inbetween in hopes of reducing numbers. These products do not directly kill or paralyze worms, nor do they treat an infestation, but they can possibly either indirectly kill parasites in the digestive tract (not elsewhere) or possibly repel them. Maybe. It's worth a shot to me.
DE food grade only in the feed less than 2% of total food weight, not bulk.
Cayenne sprinkled on the feed daily.
VermX, a self-proclaimed worm repeller used 3 consecutive days a month. (they won't email me back exactly what worms their product expels, and their literature never claims to, but it could be very handy stuff if you know what it's forte' is)
There's some info for you. If you reply, I hope we can help you with your boy.
Hello Three Horses (I hope you get this!?),
I had a question. I need to worm my chickens I saw a worm today
-How long to do give Wazine in the water? How many days? (I have 12 chickens)
-Then after giving the Wazine do I have to wait to give the fenbendosoles or one of the other wormers? Or give it right after I am finished with the Wazine treatment?
-How long should I not eat the eggs when I do this?
Thanks so much!
CaliBlueChicken. Threehorses hasnt been here in quite awhile. I'll be happy to answer your questions. I know how much you believe in using organics...unfortunately most of them dont work against worms. Wazine dosage is one ounce mixed in one gallon of water. Leave it out for 24 hours straight for them to drink. It's best to put it out first thing in the morning when you first let them out of their house, that is when they are more thirsty and will drink the water. After 24 hours, discard the water and provide your chickens with regular freshwater. Discard the eggs for 14 days, dont give them back to the chickens to eat, you'll be extending the withdrawal period. You can give the eggs to your dog(s) if you wish, wazine is ineffective with dogs. In 14 days you'll need to reworm your chickens. You can choose Valbazen(albendazole) a cattle/sheep wormer, Safeguard paste(fenbendazole) an equine wormer or Safeguard liquid goat wormer. Dosage for the liquid valbazen is 1/2cc orally for large chickens and 1/4cc for smaller chickens. Dosage for the Safeguard paste is a "pea" sized amount given to each chicken orally. It's best to put it on a small piece of bread and give a piece to each chicken. I highly recommend seperating your chickens when you do this because they will try and steal each others piece of bread, then you wont know who got properly wormed. Dosage for Safeguard liquid goat wormer is 3cc per gallon of water. Leave it out 3 days for them to drink, then discard. All these wormers have an additional 14 day withdrawal period. There is a 4th wormer that you can use and it has an added benefit in that it kills most lice and mites too. Eprinex is a cattle wormer and doesnt have a withdrawl period. Dosage is 1/2cc for large chickens and 1/4cc for small chickens. You must put the liquid on the bare skin on the back of the neck of the chickens where it is absorbed into the bloodstream. Hope this helps.
are you nuts?
Do you want me to be nuts?
Do you have a feed store that carries chicken supplies? They sell plenty of worm solutions
Using a kitten or puppy wormer is nuts....I don't want you to be nuts, but that is!
All of the above solutions are great solutions. I didn't see anywhere in the post that anyone is using kitten or puppy wormer, but I'll put my glasses on and look again, lol.
ETA: I read the first page, which is from 2008. Someone asked about puppy wormer. But the advice on this page is correct.
Last edited:
- Aug 9, 2012
- 3
- 0
- 62
" Dosage for Safeguard liquid goat wormer is 3cc per gallon of water. Leave it out 3 days for them to drink, then discard. All these wormers have an additional 14 day withdrawal period." - Dawg53
I have goats and free range chickens that drink from the goat's water. I've been trying to find a way to deworm the chickens without using water since it would be difficult to separate the goats and chickens. I have the Safeguard liquid goat wormer and think i will give that a try. If i remove the big goat waterer and only use the smaller ones and medicate it and keep an eye on it to not run dry it might work. The dose the goats would get would be minuscule. ANy thoughts on this idea?
Other question, Dawg53 mentions 14 days of not eating the eggs. The Safeguard liquid goat wormer only has a 6 day restriction on the slaughter of goats treated with it. Do you think the eggs would be 5 days or would it be different because of the way eggs are formed in the chicken.
Any help or advise on a good way to work my flock of fast running free range chickens would be greatly appreciated.
I have goats and free range chickens that drink from the goat's water. I've been trying to find a way to deworm the chickens without using water since it would be difficult to separate the goats and chickens. I have the Safeguard liquid goat wormer and think i will give that a try. If i remove the big goat waterer and only use the smaller ones and medicate it and keep an eye on it to not run dry it might work. The dose the goats would get would be minuscule. ANy thoughts on this idea?
Other question, Dawg53 mentions 14 days of not eating the eggs. The Safeguard liquid goat wormer only has a 6 day restriction on the slaughter of goats treated with it. Do you think the eggs would be 5 days or would it be different because of the way eggs are formed in the chicken.
Any help or advise on a good way to work my flock of fast running free range chickens would be greatly appreciated.
Give your birds 1/2cc safeguard liquid goat wormer orally undiluted, use a syringe without a needle to administer it. Redose again in 10 days. There'll be wormer residue in the eggs, 14 days is the normal withdrawal period for most wormers. There's nothing in writing stating a withdrawal period, safeguard and many other wormers are off label except wazine. Different animals have different withdrawal periods. I observe the withdrawal, it's up to you whether you want to eat the eggs or not.
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