YO GEORGIANS! :)

[farmerChef]

I'd say medium/large.
They aren't great for free ranging, the large crest covers a lot.
I have mottled Anconas for white eggs

 

[Flowerbh]

Yes! Polish, brown leghorns, Lakenvelders, Andalusian, Sicilain Buttercups, German Spitzhauben, Hamburgs, Capines, Samatras. Anacona, Egyptian Fayoumi, and White Sultans, to name some!

Thought I would resend this in case you missed it.

 

[ChickDancer]

Thanks! Do polish lay "normal" size eggs? I would like at least a medium egg.

Yes, they do. They are available in large fowl and bantam, so the large fowl will have the "normal" egg you are looking for.

 

[carcar80]

Ohh yeah I forget about their crest. Don't really want that as mine need to be able to see well lol.

Flower- I did, I thought I replied must have not though. Thanks!!

 

[Lynn79]

Tomorrow is lockdown day! We're going to get a brooder set up today. Need advice on brooder bulbs. Do most of you actually use the red brooder bulbs from TSC or is something else acceptable? I bought a pack but I'll be nervous about when they're on and I'm not here, do they really need that much wattage?

 

[Quack Addict]

The new ducklings had their first outside adventure today. The seven we hatched ourselves and two Swedish ducklings that my wife couldn't leave at the Tractor Supply Store...

What kind of ducks did you hatch? They are all so cute! I have 3 runner duck eggs under a broody chicken and 7 in the bator.

They are mixes. Runner/Pekin and Runner/Welshy. Our only remaining drake is a Runner/Pekin mix. Lost our Welshy and Pekin drakes to a yote. Solved that problem with a high speed lead injection but now all the ducklings we hatch are mixes.

 

[Flowerbh]

Tomorrow is lockdown day! We're going to get a brooder set up today. Need advice on brooder bulbs. Do most of you actually use the red brooder bulbs from TSC or is something else acceptable? I bought a pack but I'll be nervous about when they're on and I'm not here, do they really need that much wattage?

This time of year, I don't think those huge 250 W bulbs are necessary. I just use a 60 light bulb and adjust the height according to how the chicks react. Lower if they are all huddled underneath it, higher if they are hanging around the edges of the brooder trying to get away from the heat.

 

[Flowerbh]

Of course, it also depends on where your brooder is located and how big it is. One of those huge brooders outside in a barn may need a bigger bulb. Mine is in the garage.

 

[ChickDancer]

Tomorrow is lockdown day! We're going to get a brooder set up today. Need advice on brooder bulbs. Do most of you actually use the red brooder bulbs from TSC or is something else acceptable? I bought a pack but I'll be nervous about when they're on and I'm not here, do they really need that much wattage?

Yes... and no. One of my brooders has a standard 75W bulb, but it's inside away from drafts, and the bulb hangs pretty low in the cage - almost ON them.

With a 250W bulb, you have to remember two things. First, make sure it is secure so it doesn't fall and burn/melt anything. Second, give the babies enough room to move away from it. They will regulate their own temperature in that situation - move under the lamp when they are too cold, and move away when they are too warm.

If you go with a normal 75W or 100W bulb, make sure it's still in a silver dome fixture, and that all of the babies can fit under it. If you have too many babies for it, either set up another fixture, or use the 250W bulb.

The one big disadvantage to the 250W bulb, is how fragile they become once they warm up. The heat from them (at least in a dome fixture) makes it very easy for the glass to separate from the metal base. When that happens, the bulb is left hanging from the fixture by two thin wires. And moving those when hot can result in an incomplete circuit, and thus a bulb that doesn't work. I've gone through COUNTLESS bulbs that way (which is why I have a normal bulb, since TSC can't keep heat bulbs stocked this time of year). A simple bump of the fixture is enough to knock the glass out of the metal base, too.

Just imagine trying to unscrew the metal base out of a light socket, because a bulb busted, to understand the trouble it causes!

 

[Lynn79]

This time of year, I don't think those huge 250 W bulbs are necessary. I just use a 60 light bulb and adjust the height according to how the chicks react. Lower if they are all huddled underneath it, higher if they are hanging around the edges of the brooder trying to get away from the heat.

Yes... and no. One of my brooders has a standard 75W bulb, but it's inside away from drafts, and the bulb hangs pretty low in the cage - almost ON them.

With a 250W bulb, you have to remember two things. First, make sure it is secure so it doesn't fall and burn/melt anything. Second, give the babies enough room to move away from it. They will regulate their own temperature in that situation - move under the lamp when they are too cold, and move away when they are too warm.

If you go with a normal 75W or 100W bulb, make sure it's still in a silver dome fixture, and that all of the babies can fit under it. If you have too many babies for it, either set up another fixture, or use the 250W bulb.

The one big disadvantage to the 250W bulb, is how fragile they become once they warm up. The heat from them (at least in a dome fixture) makes it very easy for the glass to separate from the metal base. When that happens, the bulb is left hanging from the fixture by two thin wires. And moving those when hot can result in an incomplete circuit, and thus a bulb that doesn't work. I've gone through COUNTLESS bulbs that way (which is why I have a normal bulb, since TSC can't keep heat bulbs stocked this time of year). A simple bump of the fixture is enough to knock the glass out of the metal base, too.

Just imagine trying to unscrew the metal base out of a light socket, because a bulb busted, to understand the trouble it causes!

Thanks y'all I'll try a 100 watt, it will be inside so I think that will suffice~