➡I accidentally bought Balut eggs: 2 live ducks! Now a Chat Thread!

@KikisGirls I would place the bulb in the side of the bator, middle height.

Let me do a bit more research to try and help you.
So the handle part thing I want to pop out might be a good place.
 
I just found this:
Canoe doesn't even need to be here to give his advice!
I don't recommend still air for an incubator that tall. The air thermally stratifies more than you realize. Still air are usually those Styrofoam incubators that are barely taller than a rack of eggs. Even in those little things the temperature can vary as much as 2 or 3 degrees from the top of the egg to the bottom.

It is possible people put the heat above because a hen heats from above. :confused:

Rather than light bulbs, I find metallic heat elements to be more reliable. An incandescent lamp will cycle on and off many times during an incubation, thereby shortening its life. You don't want it to burn out in the middle of development.

I probably didn't answer all your questions but that's just my 2 cents worth.
 
Good point about the humidity. I think that's a very good reason to stay with the standard of heat source above. I've been hatching in home made incubators for 4 years, using light bulbs (2) x 40W as my heat source, and have never had a bulb blow. I hatch 1 - 2 broods/year. My last build was a cooler. I had a fan, but simply couldn't get the temp regulated. Even after playing with adding and blocking vents, tin foil baffles... I fudged with that thing for hours. Finally, out of desperation, I unplugged the fan. The temp leveled out and I ended up with a great hatch. BTW, don't forget: forced air temp = 99.5* (I use 100*) and still air = 102*.

^^^^^
I think this is helpful to me too because here I am thinking that a high watt bulb is the only way to go. I haven't yet understood the part about how lower watts can still work.
Thanks @lazy gardener
 

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