Actually doesn't look too small for a tractor. I've seen much worse. I'd stick with 50 though, not 75Thanks. That looks kinda small or is it my eyesight?
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Actually doesn't look too small for a tractor. I've seen much worse. I'd stick with 50 though, not 75Thanks. That looks kinda small or is it my eyesight?
Ok, so how big of a chicken tractor would I need to build for 50 broilers in 1 tractor and 49 broilers in another tractor? - Estimating their future size and weight at 8 weeks. I would like to build something that is too big right now but will be perfect at 7 - 8 weeks old.
Quote: TRy interlibrary loan for his books. His stuff is not on line as he makes money from the sales of his books and lectures.
Pastured CHickensby JOel Saladin is the title to look for--- I many have morphed the name but I do think that is the one. He explains the size of tractors.
As for contruction, smaller is better. THe longer the spans the more material to support. THe heavier the tractor. Do you have a tractor to move the tractor?? Some designs use a dolly they are so light wt.
POst 12001
Ok, I have a crazy question.How do you move a chicken tractor without running over the chickens and do they know to move along as you are moving it? Or do you just move the chicken tractor and put them in after it's moved?![]()
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I saw a thread the other day a guy bought one of those long floaty things (about 6') and attached it to the back side. It bumps the chickens without hurting them. Neat!!
Are you talking about the noodles that you buy for a swimming pool that float?I saw a thread the other day a guy bought one of those long floaty things (about 6') and attached it to the back side. It bumps the chickens without hurting them. Neat!!
Are you talking about the noodles that you buy for a swimming pool that float?
On the FF I started using a double bucket system. Two 5 gal buckets as my cornish were eating a lot.
Use one bucke and refill at end of day. Next morning, use second bucket, and refill. THe longer it ferments the more good bacteria in the mix. Also I use braggs to get it started. IT is more expensive than another brand , Heinz possibly, but the Braggs seems to be stronger and bubbles sooner. THere is no regulation on the number of colony forming units that I know of. SO it is up to the producers apparently.
I feed the mash and toss scratch at another time.
I also started FF using alfalfa cubes for my horses-- they loved it. THe birds were not too intersted though.
Does Heinz make sell a raw ACV?
I've never seen it but they might.
It doesn't have to be organic (Braggs) but it must be raw or it will do nothing for the FF. Pasteurized ACV has had all the goodies killed.
Thanks for the responses.
I"m thinking I'm going to go broke trying to feed 100 broilers when they get to be around 6 weeks. Depending on the weights, I may try to process some early.
What do you all think is a good weight to process? I know the live weight will be different than the dressed weight? So, if a broiler weighs (say for example - live weight is X lbs and X ounces, then you can expect their dressed weight to be around a guesstimate of X lbs and X ounces.)
I usually process as many as half at 3 1/2 to 4 weeks as game hens.
Guestimate is a little over half.
A 4 lb. broiler will be a little under 3 eviscerated. 6 lb. will be a little over 4 lbs.
A 1.5 lb. game hen will be about a pound processed.
I'm curious as to why you would butcher at such low weights? A bird at 10 lbs live weight may yield a 5-6 lb bird, so a 3 lb live weight bird is going to yield you some bones with a tiny layer of meat on them..and more guts than meat.