3D Modeling for Coops (& appliances)

[aart]

Sweet!

I did not know about layers. Until now.

Layers are essential in any cadd, and many photo, programs......using them will greatly ease your work(once you get the hang of them).
With Inventor, and other parabolics, you can turn on and off all parts in model.

Ya I'm still working on the plan but had to ground my son who knows how to use sketchup so thing are at a stand still right now. I did find doubling up 2x4 sometime fuses them and then it a pain to make changes. I had to delete some thing the pull more 2x4 in and start over. I find it very tedious. and takes a lot of hours to get anything done.

Scott

Learning curves are painful, often easier to start over than try to repair/modify.....but it's always faster the second time
When I first started modeling with Inventor I spent twice(or more) as many hours working than I could bill to client.

 

[WesleyBeal]

With many things I have to stop and tell myself that the point of the thing is that it makes what I want to do easier, or gives me insight I wouldn't otherwise have.

In that regard, creating a design in SketchUp may not be that useful to everyone, if you've got a method that gives you the results you want now without learning it.

I *think* - could be wrong, but I think that most people that are computer literate enough to use these forums would find *manipulating* an already existing model useful in SketchUp, if they're looking into building something.

Developing the skills - not to resize anything or create anything new - but to be able to select different pieces, hide them or move them around, so they can see how something is constructed, can be learned in short enough time to provide more value than the time spent learning it.

But even that depends on what a person is strong or weak at. There's a lot of stuff I just can't wrap my head around that I wish I could. Usually things that involve more than basic arithmetic. I'm just young enough that I've grown up using computers, and my woodworking projects allowed me to relate to SketchUp enough, and want to be able to use it enough, to make it worth the time to learn.

And when it comes to curves other than circles, I use the text tool to say "make a curve here."

 

[cholland]

Ya I'm still working on the plan but had to ground my son who knows how to use sketchup so thing are at a stand still right now. I did find doubling up 2x4 sometime fuses them and then it a pain to make changes. I had to delete some thing the pull more 2x4 in and start over. I find it very tedious. and takes a lot of hours to get anything done.

Scott

Once you draw something like a 2 x 4, select the whole thing and then group it or make it a component. Then it will act on its own and you can copy it, etc. Make each "thing" it's own group, then they don't stick together. At least I think that's the problem you are describing.

 

[aart]

I *think* - could be wrong, but I think that most people that are computer literate enough to use these forums

Hahahaha...

oh how I only wish that were true, that certainly used to be the case, before the 'stupid' phones came along. Sorry.
I used to be able to write DOS...but probably couldn't use a stupidphone.

There's a lot of stuff I just can't wrap my head around that I wish I could.

With any new software....there's a 'language' aspect......basically what are the commands called, what are the commands.
Can be hard to even get started.

Learning that stuff is MUCH easier if you have some one like cholland to point them out and answer questions,
once you know the language to ask the questions....haha!
Even as a seasoned cadd operators, we all learned things from each other because there are many ways to do the same things.

 

[jsm06278]

I really like the 8'x12' Woods plan but have a few questions.

I believe I found the plans uploaded (CrispinH 8'x12'). I was hoping for a bit more overhang and wondered if it's easy to resize the uploaded SketchUp model to cut it to 7'6" to give 3" overhang on the sides and still use 8' sheets (I'm new to SketchUp too).

Also wondering about the base. I think I'd like to have 16-18" of space underneath for covered run but I'm wondering what everyone thinks the best base might be. I'm in CT but I was thinking of blocks/pavers (6 or 8 spots under the floor framing) or would I be better off with PT posts set into a pre-cast concrete blocks made for 4"x4" posts? How are the posts fastened best? Would I need to worry about frost heaving?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

[Howard E]

I really like the 8'x12' Woods plan but have a few questions.


Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Have you seen this thread?

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/woods-colony-house-portable.1104954/

This was the sketch used to build it:



Yes, you could narrow it up a bit more than I did, but if you narrow it up at all, that leaves you with a lot of drops and wasted material. OR......install a metal roof, which comes in 3' sections, so three panels would give you 9' of width, with 6" overhangs on each side. If you use metal, be sure to install insulation beneath it to buffer heat gain in summer and condensation issues in winter. Also, by going to metal, you can use opaque skylight material for the front scratch shed, which also comes in 3' wide panels, so matches up well. I have been really pleased with the additional light and brightness the white panels have added and it makes no difference up under the scratch shed.

My house was intended to be portable (more like moveable), so mine has a dirt floor. I use it on generally level, elevated places.

Jack E put a wood floor in his, and I believe it is supported on several piers used to level it on uneven ground. But his is not elevated enough to create an enclosed run beneath it. I wouldn't do that for a house this size. Better to have a run attached to the side or in the front. Or fence in a yard area adjacent to it, which was the traditional way of letting the birds out with this house. I use electric fence to define the yard and I think Jack E does the same. He uses netting, I use multiple strands of wire. Electric fence keeps predators out and birds in.

Best floor option if this is to be more or less permanent and fixed is to build it on a cement slab. That has always been the A#1 best choice if it suits. A properly built cement floor solves a whole host of problems related to rats, digging predators, moisture levels and other health related issues.

 

[aart]

I think I'd like to have 16-18" of space underneath for covered run

You could raise it, it does make great deep shade, but might want to go high enough to be able to get under there yourself....for injured or broody bird or eggs laid underneath.
The 16x16 building my coop is in is raised 18-30" on piers sunk to frost line(I think). I extended the run wall mesh underneath about 4-6', not too far to crawl.