3D Modeling for Coops (& appliances)

On how to build the windows........I didn't document mine......and I'm just now finishing them up. May get the glass in yet today.



These are about 36" each, so have two panes of glass in them. For the Woods mini, you could do two smaller ones, or realistically, only one monitor window. If you wanted to stay true to the design and make it look better, two single windows on the sides, but those would be small......maybe 8" x 10" single panes?

This video provides a really good simply summary of how to go about building these simple custom window frames so you can have them any size you want........

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He uses a version of a mortise and tenon joint, or what he refers to in the video as slip joints. I did the same thing. Best way to cut them is on a table saw, but I finished mine using hand saws. Divide the width into 3, then two outside parts slip over the center part at the corners. Glue them together and pin them with a single dowel. Solid as a rock. If you use the sash dividers, his way of doing the framing is simple, easy and effective. I hacked in blind mortise joints with a chisel......which is effective, but not simple or easy.

To lay in the inset for the glass easy way is to nail on strips as he did. I routed in dados, but then had to chisel out the corners. Drop in the glass, using glazing points and you can simply caulk them in with silicone or latex caulk. Or use glazing compound as he does.

I'm using acrylic (plexiglass) for one and lexan for the other. Both should resist damage from hail or flying birds better than straight glass. Plexiglass is not as strong as lexan, but does not scratch as easy either. I'm doing both to see which one works the best.

The monitor windows are hinged at the top to open out at the bottom. If you have side windows, easy way to mount these single sash windows is to slide open. Let them rest on a 2 x 4 mounted horizontal (part of the framing) and the window just slides sideways on that.

For framing, for these coops. if the sidewall material is sturdy, like plywood or better yet, 3/4" t&g, you don't need much in the way of framing. I know where there are two chicken houses and a hog house, all in the range of 10' x 20' and all have no upright studs for framing. Only horizontal 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's,. Siding is nailed to those top, bottom and in the middle. Those are all well over 60 years old and still standing, so are study enough.
 
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He uses a version of a mortise and tenon joint, or what he refers to in the video as slip joints. I did the same thing. Best way to cut them is on a table saw, but I finished mine using hand saws. Divide the width into 3, then two outside parts slip over the center part at the corners. Glue them together and pin them with a single dowel. Solid as a rock. If you use the sash dividers, his way of doing the framing is simple, easy and effective. I hacked in blind mortise joints with a chisel......which is effective, but not simple or easy.

I believe the term everyone is looking for is bridal joint.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridle_joint

I'd cut them with handsaws too, though that's as much due to my lack of experience with table saws as anything....
 
Ok here is what I'll tell ya. I love over building. I love using true 2x material too. But I want to prove this design works and it layout true so as to help other build a bad azz coup.

So I want to stick to the kiln board sizes as if that's what you figured That's what I want to prove all measurements are right. If there not well no big deal Ill simple cut me a new board. I do want to use plywood to cover all areas then tyvek then my siding of chose so Be warned it while be somewhat fancy as I think the name of this one for me will be Cock R Us Shack. All funny aside I want to work with your plan 1 to firm up the measurements. 2 I have come to really appericiate the help of Aart and Howard on here. 3 I want to have the first Mini woods coop and prove Howard right I think he really knows his sh-t when It comes to a woods style coop. I do think the design will work as long as I read right and its 1.6- 2.0 on the walls. If that all can be verified I will start the planning although I will need to accumulate the cedars that will be my framing.

Ok so that was a mouth full. I'll look to install sketch up where do you install it from. I hate using sights I don't know to download.

Scott
 
Ok thanks howard I'll get to that video in a bit.


I thing I didn't see Nesting boxes? I saw on Howards design the in what I'd call the back. Does sketch have the listed so the builds complete?


Scott
 
Some of your questions I can try to answer:

All of the 1x material (1x4's, 1x12's) is used to make the door(s).

2 6' 2x2's are used on the interior floor, to fill gaps between the plywood floor and the frame, so you don't have a permanent repository for crud in that space.

In my design I used 2 2x6's for the base of the 2 long sides, and used 2 2x4's instead of a single 4x4 for each of the 4 legs. If you used 4x4's, you'd notch them to receive the 2x6's.

Everything else is made from 3/4" plywood and 2x4's (plus hardware cloth).
Probably, but just checking anyway.....you drew the model with actual lumber size rather than nominal size?
 
Ok so that was a mouth full. I'll look to install sketch up where do you install it from. I hate using sights I don't know to download.

Scott

Head over to https://www.sketchup.com/ and click the "Download SketchUp" link.

There'll be some questions you have to answer (whether this is for personal or professional use).

Starting out, you'll have the "Pro" version for 30 days or so. Then they'll ask if you want to continue using Pro for the low low price of $695. You don't need it.The program you downloaded will still work just fine. It won't have a couple of the extras it did at first - I can't even remember what they are - you won't miss them.
 
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3/4 IS 35 A SHEET around me and as a builder is only needed on the floor. The walls can be 1/2" roof 5/8. that would really cut cost down. cause in the list theres no hardware,hw, latches, hinges. That stuff can add up.

btw where should I get sketch up. so I can really take a look at the design and maybe tweak so stuff of the bat. 3/4" is a overkill and add unneeded weight..

Scott
 
3/4 IS 35 A SHEET around me and as a builder is only needed on the floor. The walls can be 1/2" roof 5/8. that would really cut cost down. cause in the list theres no hardware,hw, latches, hinges. That stuff can add up.

btw where should I get sketch up. so I can really take a look at the design and maybe tweak so stuff of the bat. 3/4" is a overkill and add unneeded weight..

Scott

Get SketchUp here:

https://www.sketchup.com/
 

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