6 month old rooster- new raging hormones or true signs of an aggressive bird...

[Chickassan]

Ok, firstly your new introductions will not be on totally accepted into the flock until they are mature which is nearly at the point of lay. Until then they're going to get harassed give them places to hide or places to get up away from the others also give a couple more food and water stations. Your little roo will eventually be accepted once the hens are mature and have decided he's good enough lol! It's really quite complex for a roo! He should simmer down after the hens give him the thumbs up.

We currently have 9 hens and 2 roosters. We had started out with more but I totally suck at buying sexed chicks and seem to come out top heavy with roosters. We gave several away but had wanted to keep my 2 favorite boys. So I went and got more sexed chicks after the discovery of so many roosters many weeks later. Of our newer additions, we have more roosters to deal with but got 6 more hens out of them. If we can ever successfully integrate the new chickens (they are currently in their own section of the run at 13 weeks old) we will have 15 hens. Successful integration feels like forever from now. We tried letting them mingle for about an hour (they are maybe just an inch shorter than the established flock) but the poor things got bullied into a corner.
I wish we had 25+ chickens but the DH won't let me. Starting this chicken stuff was all his idea and he insisted on it. Even dragged me to the store and showed me those tiny balls of fluff. I was the one that got stuck taking care of them and I wouldn't change it for the world. Just wish my head rooster wasn't such a cock! Maybe putting him by himself is our only option if he doesn't calm down. I have watched him do his little mating dance but the hens keep rejecting him. Could he just be pent up with hormones and if a hen finally accepts him, could he simmer down?

 

[Brahma Chicken5000]

The hubby would gladly do it if I allowed him. He really likes Winston though and that is why he suggested just letting nature take its course and putting him out to free range alone. Maybe he doesn't want to be the one to hurt his boy.

Maybe build Winston a seperate coop with attached run and let him live out his days in there with foraging time when your main flock is locked up? Just an idea.

 

[chickens really]

The hubby would gladly do it if I allowed him. He really likes Winston though and that is why he suggested just letting nature take its course and putting him out to free range alone. Maybe he doesn't want to be the one to hurt his boy.

Put your emotions on the back burner and allow your Husband to do what is needed with the Cockerels and enjoy a Chicken Dinner.. I would if my Husband would butcher mine....

 

[MoeBug]

Ok, firstly your new introductions will not be on totally accepted into the flock until they are mature which is nearly at the point of lay. Until then they're going to get harassed give them places to hide or places to get up away from the others also give a couple more food and water stations. Your little roo will eventually be accepted once the hens are mature and have decided he's good enough lol! It's really quite complex for a roo! He should simmer down after the hens give him the thumbs up.

So, I have been trying to research how to provide places to hide and I have read to give them spaces "with 2 sides but not where they could be cornered". My little brain can't figure out how that works... 2 sides would equate to something like a hallway or alcove which wouldn't provide much safety. Any suggestions?

 

[Chickassan]

You can make a bottomless box or prop two pieces of wood or whatever you have into a tent shape, just secure it so it doesn't fall or fold in on your girls. My first introductions i used cardboard boxes without the bottoms and laid them on their sides. The up hiding is simpler, a roost made of branches in the run or an old sawhorse will do just fine.

So, I have been trying to research how to provide places to hide and I have read to give them spaces "with 2 sides but not where they could be cornered". My little brain can't figure out how that works... 2 sides would equate to something like a hallway or alcove which wouldn't provide much safety. Any suggestions?

 

[bobbi-j]

We do have another rooster in the flock. He is a BLRW. We could try to find a way to separate our SS rooster entirely for now but, if he calms down, would we have to reintroduce him back into the flock?
I couldn't imagine eating our Winston and I don't have the heart to let the hubby cull him so the hubby suggested just kicking him out of the run. Our area has high predation and I would hate for him to have a long painful death such he be attacked cause I didn't protect him.
I am so not a country girl....

That is more cruel than taking a hatchet and stump and chopping his head off. When we choose to raise animals, we also need to accept the responsibility to provide them as humane and painless a death as possible.

That being said, please take Folly's advice and find the article by Beekissed on "Roosterspeak" (If you can't please let us know - someone will find it for you)

Yep. That is me! I am a total fail. The hubby tells me I will never cut it as a country girl. There isn't a single animal that I wouldn't try to save or make my pet. He wants to raise some animals for food and I just want to bury myself in the closet and starve. I got him to let me keep the 2 roosters cause "We could get chicks with roosters around and you could start your little chicken meat farm, Baby." That is a total lie. I just want more chickens.

Not a fail at all. But you need to think this through. If you hatch and raise more chickens, there will be more cockerels to figure out what to do with. Sure, you can give them away. Or, you can decide that you are capable of making a meal of them. I was raised a city girl, too. Married my farmer and we started raising meat birds (the ugly white Cornish cross that would die at the drop of a hat and had so many health problems, and never moved from the feeder). I also had laying hens, and some roosters from time to time. But I'd never let DH butcher the "pretty ones". Then, finally, I realized that if I wanted to be a responsible chicken keeper, I needed to manage my flock more responsibly, and that meant processing the extra cockerels if I was going to hatch chicks.

The hubby would gladly do it if I allowed him. He really likes Winston though and that is why he suggested just letting nature take its course and putting him out to free range alone. Maybe he doesn't want to be the one to hurt his boy.

Sorry - this is really a sore spot for me. He'd rather have Winston die a terrifying death, probably not instantly, but being tortured by a predator, than giving him a good life and one bad moment?

So, I have been trying to research how to provide places to hide and I have read to give them spaces "with 2 sides but not where they could be cornered". My little brain can't figure out how that works... 2 sides would equate to something like a hallway or alcove which wouldn't provide much safety. Any suggestions?

If you have room in your run, lean some pallets or plywood or something up against the wall or fence of the run. Make sure it's open on both ends so they don't get cornered. A pallet on cement blocks that the smaller chickens can get under, but is harder for the bigger ones to follow them. I would suggest reading Aart's article on integration. Make sure you have plenty of room. It does take a lot of space so the younger ones can get out of the older ones' area if needed. Integrating can be tricky.

Personally, if this were my cockerel, I don't think I'd keep him. I would eat him. If you really want to try to train him, I would give him maybe a few weeks. If he doesn't attempt to come around by then, I would say he's probably not going to.

 

[lazy gardener]

Here's a post written by Beekissed regarding dealing with problem birds of any gender.

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

 

[Peeps61]

I know people are quick to say just get rid of a rooster if they show aggression but I am wondering since my roosters only 6 months if it is just him testing out new raging hormones and it will calm down after the first year/spring or if this is a true sign of an aggressive bird? I have a rooster who has been the sweetest kindest bird out of my whole flock. He always lets my husband and I pick him up and hold him, he calls to me when I come home or if I'm close to the coop and I've never had any aggression shown. I've always tryed to show him I'm boss and never let him eat first when I feed them, or let him mount the hens in front of me. He'd just walk away if I walked towards him. But last week I brought my son in with me to the run. I already knew from reading posts to watch him and I've trained my son with them since they were day old chicks, so this was not a new thing. I could tell right away rooster was upety and not liking his presence that day and sure enough tryed to attack him. Didn't get to him before I yelled and screamed at the rooster and kicked him out of the way. I sent my son out of the run and proceeded to chase that rooster all over the place. I was trying to grab him and was gonna dunk his head in water and teach him a lesson but I could NOT catch him! I tryed later in day and chased him around again but to no avale. Since then I have not been able to pick him up and every time I enter the coop he runs around me trying to get behind me and hasn't full on attacked but I know he's thinking about it! I have heard that the first year/spring with roosters is high hormones and his feet are super bright red so I know they are raging! My question is do I chalk this up to raging hormones and will he calm back down after spring to the nice sweet chicken I had before or is this going to be what he's like from now on?

From my experience with roosters, I've found that if you plan to raise one, you need to keep your hands off of it and leave it alone as it grows. This way, it retains some of it's natural fear of you and should, if you use the right body language and movements, move out of your way when you are out with your birds. My two are not human aggressive at all, even when they were hormonal teenagers. They respected my space and moved away from me. The question really is, do you want to risk your child being hurt over a chicken? I personally would get rid of a rooster that had already tried to attack my child. The two I have now are fine with all ages of children and they are supervised closely when strangers are around my birds. No reaction to anyone so far. Good luck with your choice!

 

[Folly's place]

Beekist has great advice for improving your cockerel's attitude towards you, which is good. It won't translate into good behavior with your child, though. Can everyone in your family work with this cockerel, and will he improve enough?
I think you should invite him to dinner (or to someone's dinner) and see how your other cockerel behaves. Maybe he's a winner!
Mary

 

[MoeBug]

Here's a post written by Beekissed regarding dealing with problem birds of any gender.

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

Hot damn! Thank you so much! I am starting that routine TODAY!