A BEE thread....for those interested in beekeeping.

[ChickenCanoe]

That's good advice.

Around here, we don't use syrup after it drops below 40 or so at night. I switched to a candy board - which I made myself. My hive came through very strong. However, it was a mild winter and everything bloomed a month early, especially trees. I also put a pollen patty in after the first of the year.

 

[Beekissed]

These people are messed up.

LOVE DirtRooster's channel....just mesmerizing to watch those swarm removals and I love his easy breezy approach to things.

The hive I lost had a traditional wood top covered in tin. There were signs on the top that it must have had imperfect corners that allowed water to seep in. The one that survived had a plastic composite top that did not allow moisture to come through the top. I live in NC, so we don't get prolonged cold weather. I have screened bottom boards that allow good ventilation. I use mouse guards that prevent rodents from getting in but don't restrict airflow at the entry. This is my second winter with bees, always learning!

Just catching up to the thread, sorry for stepping out. Yes, Beekissed, it was a hit to lose my girls. I wondered if leaving sugar water in there over the winter was the wrong way to go. They were wrapped in construction-type plastic--maybe not enough ventilation, though I had thought about it. It was very cold this winter, but I envisioned them in there all clustered together and keeping warm. Another beekeeper told me not to worry about the mold, that the next bees would clean it up; but that concerns me. I'm on hold for now.

Thanks for letting me know! Always a good thing to know when one is constructing a homemade hive out of the dark recesses of the mind, what to put in, what to leave out, as one builds along.

I had read on Michael Bush's site about the screened bottom boards letting in too much air, both summer and winter, when the bees are trying to keep the brood warm or cool.....in the summer it lets in too much warm,moist air and in the winter, too much damp and cool air, even in southern climates. Also was reading on his site about folks wrapping the hives for winter and how much moisture that keeps inside the hive....and, just like in keeping chickens, hives that are wrapped up too tightly in the winter months die from the condensation/humidity freezing on them in the hive quicker than they will from just the cold temps.

Also been reading about having a well insulated lid on the hive, so trying to incorporate elements of good insulation while also providing the right amount and kind of ventilation on this hive build. Sure hope I get it right...right now I'm trying to mimic what kind of insulation and ventilation bees choose when they establish a hive in trees, in old houses, underneath houses, etc.

Any of y'all beeking in those new foam hives? Talked to an old beekeeper in the farm store the other day who was getting back into bees after many years hiatus and he has purchased a foam hive. I've since read many pros and cons of the foam hives, so wondering if any on here are using them and what they like or don't like about them?

 

[waddles99]

What is the easiest type of hive for a beginner?

 

[rottlady]

lots of beginners find these non intimidating www.ecobeebox.com

 

[waddles99]

lots of beginners find these non intimidating www.ecobeebox.com

Thanks. They look nice but are incredibly expensive!! Are they similar to the warre style hives?

 

[rottlady]

they are mini langstroths and they actually make langstroth boxes that the min frames fit into a regular size hive to use for honeycomb or just to move up in size. They have videos on Youtube. I don't have one but "know" a lot of people online who do

 

[waddles99]

they are mini langstroths and they actually make langstroth boxes that the min frames fit into a regular size hive to use for honeycomb or just to move up in size. They have videos on Youtube. I don't have one but "know" a lot of people online who do

How would one compare to one of these: http://www.beethinking.com/collections/warre-hives/products/warre-hive?variant=441204841

 

[rottlady]

sorry I know nothing about Warre hives. I'm still learning langstroth and derivatives

 

[OEF5]

I do not have a Warre hive, however when I got into beekeeping, before I even got bees I took six months and did research. Knowing what I know now, I would not start with a Warre hive as the way the bees draw the comb could cause problems for a new beekeeper. The reason for this is that the warre hive uses partial frames, and the bees finish each box with comb built to the wall of each box. To extract honey you have to cut a whole box of come from the walls of the box. If your hive is not 100% level they will draw cross comb to whichever direction it's not level. Bees draw comb on a plumb line.

When I started two of my daughters were 16, one started on a Langstroth hive, and the other went to a Tob Bar class. She really wanted a tob bar hive so we got one and she has worked it by herself since we got it. IMHO tob Bar hives are the easiest hive to work with some practice, it's all in how you move the bars to inspect the frame. One note, many people will tell you that Tob Bar hives will not produce as much honey as a langstroth hive, which may be true we are only wanting the bees for pollination and I have only ever harvested two frames of honey and non from the top bar, but those bees have survived better, and filled full bars of honey.

The other issue with a top bar hive, is that you can't use an extractor, you have to crush and strain the wax to get honey, or do cut comb with it.

Just some thoughts from a new beekeeper, you ask 5 beekeepers anything and you will get 10 answers

 

[CSWolffe]

I run both Warre and HTB hives, they both have their advantages.
Yes, Warre aren't easy to extract, but for me the point isn't easy or maximum honey extraction, but happy healthy bees. So far I've never lost my Warre colony, and it's been running for five years now. I get about a gallon of honey each harvest. The HTBs are easier to run, IF you can get them building comb the right way. It's far easier for them to cross comb in a HTB, unless you work it often. I'm more of a 'leave the bees to be bees' school of keeping. I lost my HTB last year, and one the year before. They tend to eat themselves into a corner and starve, even though there's still pounds and pounds of honey left. I'm not really a fan of HTBs any more...
I also have an Austrian style log hive I built, that I'm hoping to house a swarm in this year. We'll see how that goes...