Quote:
kinda makes ya want to try and raise ostriches
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Quote:
kinda makes ya want to try and raise ostriches
kinda makes ya want to try and raise ostriches
Quote:
holy smokes thats alot of fence to buy
This question is for R2elk!!!
I have opened the box for my herpstat 1.
Do I need to rewire the heating element with a 120v plug on it?
If I just plug the whole unit into the herpstat the fan will stop when it is not calling for heat, correct?
I need the fan to run all the time, don't I?
Is there a fuse in it as it comes from the factory? I do not want to risk prying that little fuse box open and breaking something if I do not need too..
Thanks
Herpstat 1
Back of controller
Side of incubator
Back of incubator
Temperature probe
Heating element connection
I removed the top of the incubator to access the rear chamber in order to separate the heating element and controller from the electrical supply to the fan and auto-turner. You can accomplish the same thing by removing the back of the incubator. I cannot provide any images of the change in wiring in the back compartment because I did not take any photos at the time and do not feel like opening up the back section again.
Hope this is helpful to you. The on/off switch is not necessary but I like it better than having to pull the plug to shut the unit off. For the Spyder controller I just unplug the electric cord from the back of the controller when I am not using it. I always turn the fan on before I plug the cord back into the controller.
The same can be accomplished much cheaper by using the STC-1000 rather than the Spyder controller. The Spyder controller does allow you to apply an offset to the temperature probe's reading . I found my probe reading to be approximately 0.3°F low so I am using their temperature adjustment to keep the temperature right on the money.
Good luck.