Hi there...We ran into a need to build a secure coop area and run for our silkies...We managed to knock this one off in about 6 1/2 hours. A far cry from our three weekend first attempt. Here's where we are:
We started out with a 4' x 8' frame with 4' height on the 2x4's. We cut the ends at 31.6 degrees to make the triangles. We flipped one at the top to create a flat top...make sure that you put them all the same for each triangle or they won't line up at the end of your project. We chose to turn the right top and place it under the left top. That way we could come back and put a 2x4 across the top later. We also fitted pine planks for flooring of the coop part. The coop only being 2x4.
We then lined the whole bottom with 1/2" hardware cloth. This is because there are many many predators out here in the country. It was installed with large washers and screws and then staples that you hammer down. Also if it is hot we can remove the coop floor to give them some ventilation.
We then used a lighter siding, because we want to move it. We found that if we just traced out the cuts it made life a whole lot easier trying to get the triangles perfect! Then cut the end. The end will be completely hinged at the bottom for our ease at cleaning and access.
We then put the inside panel on and a pop door in it. Cabinet hinges at the top and a knob at the bottom. We will attach a string and an eye hook to lift it up and down. I am looking for some magnets to close it also. If you wanted access to the pop door you could build a little human door in the side there and put a lock on the pop door...My run will be covered so i won't need that security here....
I covered each side with 1/4 " hardware cloth (1/2" for the bottom). Used washers and screws and then hammer down staples. I then made a drop down door at the end of the run with pine siding. Board and batten ish. I wanted to be able to have access to the run. Two strong hinges on the bottom.
A view before we closed up this side.
We were a little short in reaching the top of the hardware cloth...so, we secured a 2x4. I chose 2x4 for this project because I wanted to make sure it is strong when the dogs start attacking it. I may go back with another layer of fencing...maybe 1x3"
Before we put locks on the ends. I have ferring strips inside and out on this tongue and groove.
Today we are going to finish this as soon as I stop typing...LOL We are putting some locking mechanisms on it and a couple vents.
I still have to buy some 2x4x10' boards. They will run down the middle of this coop and serve as two handles to assist us in moving it.
Hope this helps if you are trying to wrap your mind around a A frame coop. This should work out well for my four lil silkies!
We started out with a 4' x 8' frame with 4' height on the 2x4's. We cut the ends at 31.6 degrees to make the triangles. We flipped one at the top to create a flat top...make sure that you put them all the same for each triangle or they won't line up at the end of your project. We chose to turn the right top and place it under the left top. That way we could come back and put a 2x4 across the top later. We also fitted pine planks for flooring of the coop part. The coop only being 2x4.
We then lined the whole bottom with 1/2" hardware cloth. This is because there are many many predators out here in the country. It was installed with large washers and screws and then staples that you hammer down. Also if it is hot we can remove the coop floor to give them some ventilation.
We then used a lighter siding, because we want to move it. We found that if we just traced out the cuts it made life a whole lot easier trying to get the triangles perfect! Then cut the end. The end will be completely hinged at the bottom for our ease at cleaning and access.
We then put the inside panel on and a pop door in it. Cabinet hinges at the top and a knob at the bottom. We will attach a string and an eye hook to lift it up and down. I am looking for some magnets to close it also. If you wanted access to the pop door you could build a little human door in the side there and put a lock on the pop door...My run will be covered so i won't need that security here....
I covered each side with 1/4 " hardware cloth (1/2" for the bottom). Used washers and screws and then hammer down staples. I then made a drop down door at the end of the run with pine siding. Board and batten ish. I wanted to be able to have access to the run. Two strong hinges on the bottom.
A view before we closed up this side.
We were a little short in reaching the top of the hardware cloth...so, we secured a 2x4. I chose 2x4 for this project because I wanted to make sure it is strong when the dogs start attacking it. I may go back with another layer of fencing...maybe 1x3"
Before we put locks on the ends. I have ferring strips inside and out on this tongue and groove.
Today we are going to finish this as soon as I stop typing...LOL We are putting some locking mechanisms on it and a couple vents.
I still have to buy some 2x4x10' boards. They will run down the middle of this coop and serve as two handles to assist us in moving it.
Hope this helps if you are trying to wrap your mind around a A frame coop. This should work out well for my four lil silkies!
