Adding to flock of white silkies -does color matter

[VaellaBee]

Hi, i have a tiny flock of 3 silkies and I want to add 3 sex-link chicks (not right away - when they are old enough.) I would like to add one of each: black star, red star, and golden sex-link, but I'm worried my white silkies might pick on them for being odd. Is it better to add 3 of one kind? Would the lighter color (golden) be better received? Or does it even matter? My three silkies are extremely docile and sweet. Thanks for any input!

 

[sourland]

Realistically there is more likelihood of the large fowl picking on your silkies once they mature. Color does not matter.

 

[JustAChickenLoverOverHere]

Hi, i have a tiny flock of 3 silkies and I want to add 3 sex-link chicks (not right away - when they are old enough.) I would like to add one of each: black star, red star, and golden sex-link, but I'm worried my white silkies might pick on them for being odd. Is it better to add 3 of one kind? Would the lighter color (golden) be better received? Or does it even matter? My three silkies are extremely docile and sweet. Thanks for any input!

Like @sourland said, color doesn't matter. And the sexlinks will probably be the ones to pick on the silkies when they get older. Not the other way around.

 

[VaellaBee]

Like @sourland said, color doesn't matter. And the sexlinks will probably be the ones to pick on the silkies when they get older. Not the other way around.

Do all the sex link breeds have a similar level of aggression/size?

 

[JustAChickenLoverOverHere]

Do all the sex link breeds have a similar level of aggression/size?

The aggression varies with each bird, but almost all birds will pick on silkies because they have trouble seeing and tend to be at the bottom of the pecking order and very submissive compared to other breeds. The size will vary ever-so slightly.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Do all the sex link breeds have a similar level of aggression/size?

Size, no. All sex links mean is that you can tell the sex of the chick at hatch. You an make sex links from bantams or some really big birds. The sex links you get from hatcheries typically come in one of two sizes. They may be based on the commercial hybrid egg layers and be fairly small for a full sized bird, about the size of a Leghorn. Or they may be crosses of regular dual purpose breeds and be the size of a Rhode Island Red or Barred Rock. So no set size. If you are buying form a hatchery they often give you an estimate of what an adult might weigh.

Aggression? That depends on the individual bird. Each has its own personality and will behave as it behaves regardless of breed or size. Sometimes Silkies are the aggressors towards much larger birds.

Sex links are not breeds, they are crosses. There are no breed tendencies, there can't be because they are not a breed. Will there be problems when you integrate? Maybe, maybe not, just like integrating any chickens of any breed. You never know how any living animal will react.

 

[LateBirdFarms]

My original flock is all sex link production reds of some sort, and personalities vary from bird to bird. Last year I introduced silkies and they do quite well with the flock, they are definitely at the lower end of the pecking order, but keeping head poofs trimmed so they can see goes a long way to helping their confidence level. Agression is minimal in my flock, but I think the main thing is making sure you have enough space and enough feeding stations. Keeping silkies with production birds is doable, but keep an eye on the flock dynamics, all it will take is one overly aggressive hen and a few minutes to scalp a silkie. On the same note, one of my silkies falls pretty high on the aggressive scale when it comes to smaller chicks, but again with proper space most chicks are quicker by far and more maneuverable than my Mopsy, and having objects to break the line of sight helps a great deal as well.

 

[Mrs. K]

You are doubling your flock +, as the those birds are more than likely bigger than the silkies... measure your coop, measure your run to make sure you have enough space. SPACE is a pretty standard issue when problems occur. More space, less problems.

What is more than enough space for three birds may not be enough room for 6.

Mrs K

 

[aart]

measure your coop, measure your run to make sure you have enough space. SPACE is a pretty standard issue when problems occur. More space, less problems.

What is more than enough space for three birds may not be enough room for 6.

Ditto Dat!!

I want to add 3 sex-link chicks (not right away - when they are old enough.)

I find integrating chicks young is much easier, after you do the setup.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/

Here's some tips about...
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[VaellaBee]

Thanks everyone for your input! I have a follow-up scenario/ plan B question..
So my mom has 3 americaunas in a small coop that free range all day unsupervised. I have 3 silkies in a large coop/run that only free range while supervised. (We both have very large, fenced yards but I'm maybe overprotective of my silkies.) The plan was to get 3 star chicks a piece so we each have 6 chickens. But, I'm thinking we might be better off if i take her small coop and americaunas, let them free range at my house and keep them separate from the silkies except under close supervision. Then she can get a new, big coop and take the 6 black star chicks i when they're ready. Which she is on board with. Does this seem like a better option, or is it easier to split up the young birds and integrate them into the separate flocks?