Ameraucana leg color or ear lobe color to determine egg shell color?

Walking On Sunshine...when you candled your shipped eggs...what were you looking for in the undeveloped egg? I never noticed much on my undeveloped eggs on day 1, just transparent egg...I only can see something if it develops...the beginning of the embryo and blood vessels, etc. What/how should I look for detached air sacs and twisted chalazea?

Of course I am only using a small but bright LED flashlight in dark of night. What do you use?

Thanks
Lady of McCamley

When we candled the shipped eggs, we were looking for rolling air cells and twisted chalazae, just to give us an idea of how badly roughed up the eggs were. We use a homemade candler, which is an old piece of 4" metal ductwork with a compact florescent lightbulb on one end and the other end covered in opaque soft black plastic and a hole in the middle, so that the plastic kind of seals around the egg a bit. The duct is like 3 feet long so we don't overheat the eggs. We can only candle in full dark, too.

You're right, there's nothing to see as far as development. The best way to see the difference between a detached air sac and twisted insides and an undamaged egg is to use one of your own fresh eggs as an example of a non-twisted egg. You can go back and forth between the twisted and untwisted eggs and you'll see the difference. The rolling air cells are very clear, as they move around and roll when you turn the egg side to side. Try holding your egg sideways, parallel to the ground when you candle it, and slowly spin it on the short axis. If the bubble is always up, like a compass, you have a detached air cell. Also, you can see when the insides are all twisted up. There are faint shadowy lines running in a twisted pattern all around the inside of the egg that aren't there in an undamaged egg.

We leave our shipped eggs point side down in a cool place (our basement) for 48 hours before setting them, especially if they have detached air cells. I don't know if it helps or not, but I have learned to do so from people here at BYC that say it helps to reattach the cells. If I am setting eggs from my own hens, I stick them straight under the hen. I suppose some do sit on our counter point-down in a carton for a day if I'm being picky about setting only certain eggs and it takes more than a day to get enough of the ones I want. We usually get 100% hatches from our own eggs with a broody--except for clear, unfertilized eggs, which I don't count towards my hatch percentage since I don't have enough roosters to keep my flock 100% fertilized all the time and I usually expect that some aren't.

If you're planning to set your shipped eggs under a broody, you might want to contact the seller and have them give you a price for just nine or a dozen. Most sellers will routinely ship a dozen plus a few extras, expecting them to go in an incubator--but you don't want that many when you use a broody. That way you save a bit of money and don't end up with too many eggs to fit under your hen and the horrid decision of which eggs not to set.
 
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I am thoroughly excited to say that I found a "local-ish" breeder of Wheaten and BW Ameraucanas just a couple hours from me and I have an order for a straight run of 6 coming this spring! I'm looking forward to more blue layers, and hopefully having a nice roo to add to them!

Lady of McC - Interesting to know about the differing egg sounds made by failed eggs when shaken. I had not heard that, so this will be a nice little nugget to keep in mind next time around, when trying to determine what went wrong. Very cool! :)

I had read up a bunch on setting shipped eggs, and had heard both a 24-hour point-down rest time, as well as a 48-hour point-down rest time. Some sources said 24 wasn't enough time to rest... Others said that waiting a full 48 could reduce the viability... I split the difference and placed them under the broody at 36 hours, which also happened to be when it got dark and I could do the switch without getting my broody all upset. Ah, well. I am looking forward to getting to hand-pick my own fertile eggs for hatching! :)

Thanks again to everyone for the fantastic help!
 
Just reading this makes my head spin. Thanks for the info! :hmmSo ear tufts does indicate araucanas? My babies just started laying..so excited:wee
 
Yes tufts indicate Araucana. But don't confused tufts with muffs. Two very different things. Muffs are the fluffy cheeks. Tufts are normal feathers that sprout from the ear area.
Ok...so not confusing (+ sarcasm)
What do I have..I'm quite convinced my feed store is clueless. Don't tell them I said that. ;)
 

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Both. A rooster contributes a full set of genes to all his offspring. A hen contributes a full set to her boys but withholds the sex linked genes from her daughters. That’s what makes them girls. I don’t have a clue if any of the egglaying genes are sex linked or not, so I’d assume each contributes equally. If there is a sex linked gene involved, the rooster will contribute more.

Since a rooster doesn’t lay eggs it’s a bit uncertain exactly what he is contributing. That’s why you normally look at the hen for egg contribution. At least you know what you are getting from her. I’d think a leghorn over an EE or Ameraucana would really help the egglaying of the offspring and would contribute to keeping the eggs blue.

JVeith, I think you are on the right track. Like WOS said, that rooster will contribute white and you can see what the hen is contributing by her egg. So if you hatch blue eggs from that cross, you should get some blue egg layers. The correct genetic symbol fort the blue egg gene is capital “O”, for the white gene a small case “o” so I’ll use those. Assuming you only hatch blue eggs and the leghorn is the daddy:

The hen might be pure for the blue egg gene, or OO. If she is, she will give a blue gene to all her offspring. The leghorn rooster is oo and will give all offspring an o. Using the Punnett Squares you get every offspring will get Oo, so the pullets will all lay blue eggs.

If the hen is split Oo, she will still lay a blue egg but half her offspring will be Oo and half will be oo. So half her pullets will lay blue eggs and half will lay white. As long as you hatch blue or green eggs, you always have at least a 50% chance the pullets will lay a blue or green egg even if the rooster only contributes white.
I'll add in my research I've found; somewhere but forget where; they they said dad dose the speckling best on eggs if you want those. BUT a Whiting Ture Blue Roo over a Specked egg Hen will pass the speckling thru. I was on a a few green eggs discussions and a few other websites that were talking about green eggs and that got into green eggs with speckles. I'm wondering if there is something else at play in the Whiting Genetics to do that?
 
Sounds to me like you're doing it right. If I lived near you, I'd buy EEs from you!
big_smile.png
I think YOU'RE becoming the breeder that you're looking for.

As far as separating your hens, you're right. Separate for 2-3 weeks before introducing your favored roo. Doesn't matter if you remove the roos or separate the hens.

Also, three things come to mind for your EE problem.
First, where in the world are you? I just hatched a batch of blue and black Ameraucanas simply to get the roosters I wanted for my breeding program. I have six, and will be selling at least four. If you're close, or you are coming to the Ohio National Poultry Show (it's in my backyard, practically) I will sell you one cheap.

Secondly, do you ever get any broody hens? I've found that I get really great hatches from shipped eggs under a broody hen. You can talk to Ameraucana breeders on the Ameraucana thread here on BYC, and many will be willing to ship you out some eggs quickly after a lady goes broody for you. I paid $35/dozen including shipping, which was a good price. Then, you have your reliable source of blue egg genetics and you can take it from there.

Finally, you can search out an Ameraucana breeder near you. One of the best ways to identify a "real" Ameraucana breeder is if they tell you the color of the birds up front. In other words, "Americana chickens lay blue and green eggs" are likely to be Easter Eggers. "Wheaten Ameraucanas" are much more likely to be purebred. Then, ask the breeder what lines he/she used in their breeding program. They should know, and if they mention a feed store or a hatchery you'll know they really have EEs.

If you can get actual Ameraucana roosters, it simplifies your breeding program immensely because anything you breed to them will throw a green or blue egg.
Here is the link they gave me to find Coloring from that thread which lead to finding the breeders list....
Breeders...
http://ameraucanabreedersclub.org/docs/breedersdirectory.pdf
Gallery of coloring...
http://ameraucanabreedersclub.org/gallery.html

Save time hunting for it :D
 
JVeith
I'm sorry your shipped hatch went poorly...Most claim the standing hatch rate for shipped eggs is 50%.

BTW...Not to say your shipped eggs weren't totally mishandled by the gorilla at the USPS, but if you crack open most any undeveloped egg after 10 days of sitting warm under a hen, the decomposition will make it looked scrambled as the yolk membrane has broken down. If you shake the decomposed egg, it will give a clear "thud-a-thud" and feel just like a water balloon sloshing. (Wait longer to pull it and it will look like a green water balloon swelled tight in the outer membrane...and explodes with high velocity...both smell and speed of gook. :p)

I've not tried shipped eggs yet, but I too want to get some specific breeds that I may not find locally, so I'm taking notes of letting them sit with points down for 48 hours so the air sacs can reattach. I've heard that before...being such a nube, when asked how long you let your eggs sit before incubating...I said I put them in immediately...but I've only used eggs that I've personally gathered locally...no jostling there.


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Walking On Sunshine...when you candled your shipped eggs...what were you looking for in the undeveloped egg? I never noticed much on my undeveloped eggs on day 1, just transparent egg...I only can see something if it develops...the beginning of the embryo and blood vessels, etc. What/how should I look for detached air sacs and twisted chalazea?

Of course I am only using a small but bright LED flashlight in dark of night. What do you use?

Thanks
Lady of McCamley
I used a 1500 Lumen LED flashlight to candle my hatching blue and green eggs under my broody this September (2023). It was suggested that I use that high a lumen to see in the darker shell of the blues and greens. I got mine from Olight, also recommended by several.
 

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