Any suggestions on how to solve our frostbite problem?

[Ken41]

Thanks for the info on the teflon. I use heat lamps for the chicks. I read that the Gov. may lift the ban, can only hope!

 

[Sydney Acres]

I just came across this very helpful information. My chickens have mild frostbite. I couldn't figure out why until I read these posts. They are in an insulated shed with two windows--there is, unfortunately, no ventilation up top. I leave one south window cracked most of the time, but I put a heat lamp in a couple times when it has been very cold. I leave the north window closed as it is on perch level and would give them a draft. There is frost on the windows. This is my first winter of owning chickens so I really don't know what I am doing. My main question is: At what temperature do I need to turn on the heat lamp? I read that someone did not do it until it got 40 below. Well, if that is the case, I don't need heat as I am in Central Ohio and it does not get that cold here. I am frustrated trying to get the heat and ventilation balance. Also, their exit door into their yard is on a light sensor. Most of the time it is open but since they were not interested in going out today and it is pretty cold with snow (-6), I just closed it. Now, I am back to only one window cracked about 4 ". Any input will help. Thank you!

You said the north window is at perch level, but you didn't say how high up the south window is. If it's significantly above perch level you could put a small fan at the top of the window, blowing outward, not inward. That might vent the moist air enough. If not, you need to cut a hole, or possibly several holes, in the highest point of the wall(s). Ideally vents should cover a fairly wide span without being very tall, but if you put a fan in you could probably get away with a smaller venting hole, or multiple small holes with fans. (Use fans that fit snuggly in the holes. If the fans are too big for the holes, then you'll get air blowing around inside the coop also, which would be drafty.) Be sure that you cover any holes with hardware cloth that is securely fastened, not just screen. Predators can push out screens and fans to get inside.

In addition to venting out moisture, try to minimize moisture buildup. The main things you can do there are clean up the poop daily and prevent water from spilling. Any moist bedding needs to be removed with the poop every day.

Regarding when you can turn on the heat lamp, that depends on your coop. You hit the nail on the head when you expressed frustration at trying to get the "heat and ventilation balance" (although it's really more of a heat, moisture, and ventilation balance). You have to balance it to avoid frostbite. The more venting of moisture you have, the more heat you can put in a coop without getting frostbite. The less ventilation you have, the less heat you can add before getting frostbite. If the birds are adding enough heat on their own to produce condensation and frost on the windows, then they're also producing condensation and frost on their combs -- you just don't see it until the frostbite produces visible evidence. If the heat from the birds is already too much, then you can't add any more heat, and you need to minimize moisture and increase ventilation.

When you can turn on a heat lamp is not the same question as when you should turn on a heat lamp. You should not turn on a heat lamp if doing so will increase the likelihood of frostbite due to poor ventilation (as discussed above), or when there is a risk of fire, or when the setup in your chicken house is such that the birds would get too warm. But other than that, it's a personal preference. If you have birds that are very cold tolerant, well acclimated to cold weather, young and healthy, then you probably don't need it until the temperatures get horribly cold (which for some people is 20 degrees, and for others it's minus 40 degrees -- sorry, no help there). On the other hand, if you have birds that are old, arthritic, sickly, not cold acclimated, or of a breed that is not cold tolerant, then you might want to start heat at higher temperatures, but only if it's safe to do so. Bottom line, when it comes to frostbite, ventilation is usually more important than heat.

 

[buyabed1]

Thank you, both for your helpful information. I will get to work.

 

[mrballance]

You said the north window is at perch level, but you didn't say how high up the south window is.  If it's significantly above perch level you could put a small fan at the top of the window, blowing outward, not inward.  That might vent the moist air enough.  If not, you need to cut a hole, or possibly several holes, in the highest point of the wall(s).  Ideally vents should cover a fairly wide span without being very tall, but if you put a fan in you could probably get away with a smaller venting hole, or multiple small holes with fans.  (Use fans that fit snuggly in the holes.  If the fans are too big for the holes, then you'll get air blowing around inside the coop also, which would be drafty.)  Be sure that you cover any holes with hardware cloth that is securely fastened, not just screen.  Predators can push out screens and fans to get inside.

In addition to venting out moisture, try to minimize moisture buildup.  The main things you can do there are clean up the poop daily and prevent water from spilling.  Any moist bedding needs to be removed with the poop every day.

Regarding when you can turn on the heat lamp, that depends on your coop.  You hit the nail on the head when you expressed frustration at trying to get the "heat and ventilation balance" (although it's really more of a heat, moisture, and ventilation balance).  You have to balance it to avoid frostbite.  The more venting of moisture you have, the more heat you can put in a coop without getting frostbite.  The less ventilation you have, the less heat you can add before getting frostbite.  If the birds are adding enough heat on their own to produce condensation and frost on the windows, then they're also producing condensation and frost on their combs -- you just don't see it until the frostbite produces visible evidence.  If the heat from the birds is already too much, then you can't add any more heat, and you need to minimize moisture and increase ventilation.

When you can turn on a heat lamp is not the same question as when you should turn on a heat lamp.  You should not turn on a heat lamp if doing so will increase the likelihood of frostbite due to poor ventilation (as discussed above), or when there is a risk of fire, or when the setup in your chicken house is such that the birds would get too warm.  But other than that, it's a personal preference.  If you have birds that are very cold tolerant, well acclimated to cold weather, young and healthy, then you probably don't need it until the temperatures get horribly cold  (which for some people is 20 degrees, and for others it's minus 40 degrees -- sorry, no help there).  On the other hand, if you have birds that are old, arthritic, sickly, not cold acclimated, or of a breed that is not cold tolerant, then you might want to start heat at higher temperatures, but only if it's safe to do so.  Bottom line, when it comes to frostbite, ventilation is usually more important than heat.

Ditto very good . Pretty much covered everything

 

[Phoenixxx]

Very important point.  My husband insists on using a heat lamp for the older chickens, but I insist the clamp be chained to the ceiling.  That way, worst case scenario, if the clamp fails the heat lamp will just hang by the clamp, but won't touch anything flammable.  Also useful is an audible communication from your coop.  Can be as simple as a baby monitor or a smoke detector, if the coop is close enough to the house, or as complicated as 24/7 internet chicken cam, but something installed that will make a loud sound in the house if there's a problem in the coop.

Regarding using light bulbs to heat coops, chickens don't like light shined in their eyes constantly any more than we do.  It can be quite annoying, and can produce many physiological changes.  But the red lights and the ceramic heat bulbs don't cause those issues.

Beware of the "tuff" lights, or shatter resistant work lights.  Most of those are Teflon-coated, and the Teflon produces a gas that is poisonous to birds (not mammals) at high temperatures.  Several flocks have died because of these lights.  Some manufactures put obvious labels on these lights warning not to use them around birds, but GE is the largest seller of these bulbs and refuses to place warning labels, despite having lost some lawsuits because of it.

You're kidding, right?! I'm using rough service bulbs... will have to check the package, but pretty sure they're the "tuff" ones... I have it on only for supplemental light in the evenings but I used it last winter, too! When it gets stupid-cold I switch to the red heatlamp.

 

[dixielou]

I love the little comb cap. I would definitely use them on my leghorns. The have such big combs. Fun, Fun!

 

[dixielou]

I love this! I want some for my chickadees!

 

[LindaR]

I have a little Cochin Bantam rooster & the hens grouped together in a corner on top of a straw bale.
Guess who was underneath those hens !!! He was toasty warm ! I am gonna have to look at all these
comments, as I don't think my girls are well fed, enough.

 

[Sydney Acres]

Quote:
No, I'm not kidding! Here is the article: http://www.backyardpoultrymag.com/7...light_bulbs_toxic_to_chickens_the_full_story/
This is not the only incident, but it is one of the most well written that I've seen. I have not bought a single GE light bulb since I read that, or knowingly purchased anything else made by GE or a GE-owned company. I found the whole situation unbelievable. But I am now a loyal Sylvania user, and have sent them a letter thanking them for being responsible (these comments will make sense after you read the article).

If you're using the Teflon-coated bulbs without problems, then you've been lucky. The effects are dose-dependent, so maybe you got one that was poorly coated, or you have good floor ventilation, or your birds roost high enough that the gas doesn't get up to them, or for some reason your particular bulb isn't getting hot enough to emit fumes. Whatever the reason, there's no guarantee that your luck won't change in the future. If that's the bulb you're using, I wouldn't risk using it one more minute around chickens or any species of bird. It is safe to use around humans and other mammals, but I'd personally take it back to the place you bought it, request a refund, and demand that the manager post a warning sign by the bulbs warning customers of the dangers. GE may not care, but hopefully there's some store managers out there with a conscious. (OK, yes, now I'm officially ranting! Sorry. I can tolerate people or companies being uninformed, but once informed they have a responsibility to minimize any danger their product presents. No one was asking GE to stop producing this product, only to put a warning label on it. It would cost them almost nothing -- product packaging gets redesigned and relabeled all the time. There is no logical reason for GE to continue to endanger birds like this.)

 

[SIMZ]

As for comb caps......

The idea cracks me up -- especially beekissed's idea about putting the entire sock over their heads. LOL

Am I the only one with a evil labrador (ornery might be a nicer, but less accurate, word)? Her greatest joy in life comes from grabbing socks and running with them. I can already see where this would end up. I'd spend hours securing the caps on everyone's head. Later I'd come out to find the fence knocked over, cap-less chickens loose in the yard, the chicken food eaten, and little pink caps blowing all over..... She doesn't bother the chickens (just the food), but I think putting little socks on their head would be too much for her to resist.