Any suggestions on how to solve our frostbite problem?

No, never put in a lower vent. That WILL cause a draft. Venting needs to be in the roof or eaves of the coop. Roost bars need to be much lower than the vents. A draft is breeze blowing or disturbing the air around the roost bar. Good venting is air moving above the birds, not on or near them, and whisking away the moisture after it rises. Birds should roost in quiet air. Ventilation is air moving up and out the roof, or from eave to eave, not disturbing the air around the birds.
This is one of the best explanations of draft vs. ventilation that I've ever read. So simple, and so easy. Thank you for posting it.
 
Just think, in a few short months we will be working on trying to get the heat OUT of the coop. Then all the vents will come in handy.
 
I would add...Make sure all lamps and heat devices are well secured because hot lamp plus straw equals fire. Especially when it is cold, I think it is tempting to put in extra clamp type lamps but these can be knocked loose and that would be very bad.

Very important point. My husband insists on using a heat lamp for the older chickens, but I insist the clamp be chained to the ceiling. That way, worst case scenario, if the clamp fails the heat lamp will just hang by the clamp, but won't touch anything flammable. Also useful is an audible communication from your coop. Can be as simple as a baby monitor or a smoke detector, if the coop is close enough to the house, or as complicated as 24/7 internet chicken cam, but something installed that will make a loud sound in the house if there's a problem in the coop.

Regarding using light bulbs to heat coops, chickens don't like light shined in their eyes constantly any more than we do. It can be quite annoying, and can produce many physiological changes. But the red lights and the ceramic heat bulbs don't cause those issues.

Beware of the "tuff" lights, or shatter resistant work lights. Most of those are Teflon-coated, and the Teflon produces a gas that is poisonous to birds (not mammals) at high temperatures. Several flocks have died because of these lights. Some manufactures put obvious labels on these lights warning not to use them around birds, but GE is the largest seller of these bulbs and refuses to place warning labels, despite having lost some lawsuits because of it.
 
I just came across this very helpful information. My chickens have mild frostbite. I couldn't figure out why until I read these posts. They are in an insulated shed with two windows--there is, unfortunately, no ventilation up top. I leave one south window cracked most of the time, but I put a heat lamp in a couple times when it has been very cold. I leave the north window closed as it is on perch level and would give them a draft. There is frost on the windows. This is my first winter of owning chickens so I really don't know what I am doing. My main question is: At what temperature do I need to turn on the heat lamp? I read that someone did not do it until it got 40 below. Well, if that is the case, I don't need heat as I am in Central Ohio and it does not get that cold here. I am frustrated trying to get the heat and ventilation balance. Also, their exit door into their yard is on a light sensor. Most of the time it is open but since they were not interested in going out today and it is pretty cold with snow (-6), I just closed it. Now, I am back to only one window cracked about 4 ". Any input will help. Thank you!
 
Only Standard Service incandescent were banned, Rough Service incandescent are exempt. Better bulb, lasts longer and survives "rough handling"

https://www.google.com/search?q=rou...bulbs&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&start=20

Ken
SW PA

6 Dorkings
9 Jersey Giants
3 French Guineas
4 Others

Are these the bulbs that are designed to be resistant to breaking by having a Teflon coating? If so, they are deadly in a chicken house. Teflon emits a gas when heated. The gas is deadly to birds of all species, but not to mammals. That's why you shouldn't cook with non-stick pans when you have birds in the house. The Teflon needs to get pretty hot, but there have been several cases of entire flocks dying from Teflon gas poisoning from these light bulbs getting too hot. Several manufacturers have put warning labels on their packaging, but the largest manufacturer, GE, has refused to label these bulbs as being dangerous to birds, despite being sued for it. I guess they figure the cost of replacing a few chickens is cheaper than redesigning their labels, because they can only be made to pay for the market value of the birds, not the heartache of the loss.
 
My rooster, Dolittle, got frostbite when the temperature dropped to minus 20 here in Vermont. The hen house was about 17 degrees. I have a heat bulb in there for weather like this but it just wasn't enough. Most of his comb was black.
Dolittle and I are very close - he's 9 - and all he wants from any person is a hug. Most of you will chuckle, but I brought him into the laundry room and set him up in a dog crate. I let him out to walk around as well.
In addition to his regular food, I fed him protein - plain shredded steak, waffles soaked with egg yolk, oatmeal, and fruit - blueberries,apples. I also ground up a 1/4 of a baby aspirin twice a day - thought this would help with circulation and pain - and squirted fish oil for omega 3 on his food. (You can chuckle now). I put triple antibacterial ointment on his comb twice a day. It did start to blister, but I let them break on their own. The danger of frostbite is infection.
Miraculously, in a week the color was coming back underneath the dead skin and scabs - quite ugly but not infected.
I brought him back with his girls when he was healed and they gradually picked off the dead skin.
With the exception of one tiny tip, he's back to his handsome self ! We were very lucky.
I should add that at the first sign of infection, don't wait - see the vet.

I'm not going to chuckle -- I love what you did. Lots of common sense, reasonable and effective home remedies, and lots of love for a sweet old bird. He's lucky to have you.
 
I just came across this very helpful information.  My chickens have mild frostbite.  I couldn't figure out why until I read these posts.  They are in an insulated shed with two windows--there is, unfortunately, no ventilation up top.  I leave one south window cracked most of the time, but I put a heat lamp in a couple times when it has been very cold.  I leave the north window closed as it is on perch level and would give them a draft.  There is frost on the windows.  This is my first winter of owning chickens so I really don't know what I am doing.  My main question is:  At what temperature do I need to turn on the heat lamp?  I read that someone did not do it until it got 40 below.  Well, if that is the case, I don't need heat as I am in Central Ohio and it does not get that cold here.  I am frustrated trying to get the heat and ventilation balance.  Also, their exit door into their yard is on a light sensor.  Most of the time it is open but since they were not interested in going out today and it is pretty cold with snow (-6), I just closed it.  Now, I am back to only one window cracked about 4 ".  Any input will help.  Thank you!

Hi I definatly would not use heat lamps that will worsen the problem and subject your birds to worse frostbite,you need to cut some vents at the top of your coop to let any moisture escape and create air circulation.If you have a main entrance door I would open that in the meantime to let the moisture out and also make sure the bedding,ie
 
Hi I definatly would not use heat lamps that will worsen the problem and subject your birds to worse frostbite,you need to cut some vents at the top of your coop to let any moisture escape and create air circulation.If you have a main entrance door I would open that in the meantime to let the moisture out and also make sure the bedding,ie

Shavings or hay is dry and if not change it out,good luck.
 

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