Australorps breed Thread

[Gramma Chick]

Ha Ha ...I have a bunch of different breeds .....none of my Aussies have had the poopy butt problem
It seems to be a individual problem ...one of my white rocks had a prolapsed vent as a pullet ..
She alway had a poopy butt problem ..I had to wash & or trim her regularly
She is Probably the one in my Avatar

 

[appps]

Noticed something strange today. Both the Aussies had started to get quite red faces. Noticed today that they are both now quite pale and one almost has a grey look about it.

They seem healthy otherwise. Ideas? They are about 16 weeks now.

 

[Birdrain92]

Noticed something strange today. Both the Aussies had started to get quite red faces. Noticed today that they are both now quite pale and one almost has a grey look about it.

They seem healthy otherwise. Ideas? They are about 16 weeks now.

Can you post pictures please?

 

[appps]

Can you post pictures please?

Just let them out this morning and they are both back to red faces again. Strange?

 

[bruceha2000]

Just let them out this morning and they are both back to red faces again. Strange?

In a word - VERY! My girls go pale and their combs shrink (also going pale) when they moult then gradually redden back up as they get close to laying again. I've never seen a 1 or 2 day turnaround in either direction.

 

[appps]

In a word - VERY! My girls go pale and their combs shrink (also going pale) when they moult then gradually redden back up as they get close to laying again. I've never seen a 1 or 2 day turnaround in either direction.

It was really beyond pale and into grey too, to the point that my son noticed as well and came in and told me later in the day after Id noticed it. Will keep an eye on them today.

 

[Gramma Chick]

It was really beyond pale and into grey too, to the point that my son noticed as well and came in and told me later in the day after Id noticed it. Will keep an eye on them today.

Did something scare them ?
The one with the poopy butt may have a yeast infection ..
Or Have they had any moldy food ?
do you have access to yougurt ...?
Acidify the water using apple cider vinegar (2 to 4 tablespoons vinegar per gallon of water) to inhibit yeast growth and up to 1 Tbsp live-culture yogurt per bird.
that should help..I use these 2 things Ive never had to do a flush
This is From my Chicken Medicine file
VENT GLEET
Vent Gleet, also known as cloacitis or thrush or mycosis, is an uncommon condition in young and adult birds. It is an avian yeast infection that can attack the whole digestive system from beak to vent, and also effect the reproductive system. It's usually caused by eating moldy food. It is sometimes confused with pasted vent, which is not caused by an infectious agent, and is common with chicks, but rare in adults.
Symptoms
Birds can show some or all of the following symptoms:
Depression Loss of energy Rough feathers Diarrhea Distended sour cro Slow growth Weight loss
Decreased hunger and increased thirst Soiled vent feathers White sores near the vent Loss of feathers near the vent
Reddened or swollen vent tissue Gray powdery or black waxy substances on the ven Very bad smelling droppings
Patches in the throat that look like yeast or wax Unexplained laying problems Swollen vent
TOXIC fLUSH -Treatment Laxatives
The purpose of laxatives is to flush the digestive system of toxic substances, in this case yeast.
Molasses: Offer one pint of molasses to 5 gallons of water free-choice to the affected birds for about four hours. Treat severely affected birds individually if they cannot drink. Return the birds to regular water after the treatment period. (Solutions Used For Poultry, 2008)
Epsom Salt: 1 lb Epsom Salt per 15 lb feed or 1 lb Epsom Salt per 5 gallons water for 1 day. Give the epsom salt feed mixture as the sole feed source for a one day period. This feed can be used only if the birds are eating. If the birds are not eating, use the water solution. If the birds are unable to eat or drink by themselves, use individual treatment with 1 teaspoon of Epsom Salt in 1 fl oz water. Feed the bird with a syringe. (Solutions Used For Poultry, 2008)
Castor Oil: Dose individual birds with .5 oz castor oil. (Solutions Used For Poultry, 2008)
***TOXIN FLUSHES ***are something everyone should be aware of, and have the needed items on hand to mix and offer. We would rather you be informed and prepared than to be in a panic and in need.
Epsom Salt Flush:
3 Tsp. Epsom Salts. , 1 ½ Cups water , ¼ – ½ gram vitamin and electrolyte powder * Optional
2 – 3 times a day for 3 days or until a full recovery is made.
Molasses Flush:
1 cup Molasses , 2 ½ gallons water , 5 – 6 grams vitamin and electrolyte powder * Optional
! !Do not exceed 8 hours ! ! After 8 hours replace Molasses flush with vitamin and electrolyte water
Activated Charcoal Slurry
1 tsp. Activated Charcoal Powder 8 oz. – Pure Water Dose 6 – 8 times daily
**These flushes will cause slight to moderate dehydration as they work to expel toxins and foreign matter from your birds system. After giving a flush, offer a steady supply of vitamin and electrolyte fortified water until a full recovery is made.
we prefer to use steamed oats (quacker like humans eat) and mashed egg when a bird is ill. Isolated into a dog kennel, covered to keep darker and quiet and keeping stress to a minimum.
Internal Anti-fungals
Copper Sulfate: Sometimes used as a follow-up treatment after flushing with a laxative. Dissolve 1 oz copper sulfate and 1 tablespoon of vinegar into 15 gallons water. Use as the sole water source during the course of the disease outbreak. Copper sulfate is often referred to as "bluestone". (Solutions Used For Poultry, 2008) Copper sulfate in a single dose of greater than 1 gram is fatal.
Potassium Permanganate: A solution of 1 tablespoon powder in 4.25 gallons water is an old remedy for diarrhea in adult chickens.
Nystatin: 62.5-250 mg nystatin and 7.8-25 mg sodium lauryl sulfate per liter of water for 5 days. (Saif 2003)
Garlic: Milder than chemicals, 1 clove of garlic (1/4 teaspoon dried) per gallon of water is a traditional treatment that does not effect the taste of the eggs.
External Anti-fungals
Fungicides can be applied externally to the vent and around the beak to reduce sores and waxy patches.
Sulfur: sulfur powder dusted on the vent area can greatly reduce sores and tissue buildup around the vent. Do not dust sulfur on the head. Sulfur can be found in garden centers.
Fungal creams designed for humans, for instance for athletes' foot, can be applied to both vent and head.
Prevention
Keep food sources clean, do not feed bird spoiled food, and store feed in a dry place. In young chicks, it may be caused by fungus on the surface of the egg. For future hatchings, dip the eggs in an iodine solution before incubating. (Saif 2003)
Probiotics
Probiotics are live beneficial gut bacteria that occur naturally in all animal digestive tracts. Various probiotics are in yogurt, liquid human probiotic solutions, or powdered livestock probiotics. If you specifically want to prevent thrush, use a probiotic that contains both Acidophilus and B. bifidum.
Acidify the water using apple cider vinegar (2 to 4 tablespoons vinegar per gallon of water) to inhibit yeast growth and up to 1 Tbsp live-culture yogurt per bird.

 

[MonicainAZ]

Since this thread has been kind of quiet lately, I thought I'd ask a question. My 3 Aussies are now 20 weeks old, and they are the only chickens I've ever had. They spend most of their time in their coop and closed run, but several times a week I let them out of the coop to free range around my back yard when I lock the dogs inside. I have a reasonably large backyard considering I live in the middle of the city, but it's just a backyard, surrounded by a 6' block wall. Here in AZ there are hawks and such, not many in the city. Coyotes can be an issue but I've never seen any within miles of my house. For the most part they are about as safe here as any free range chickens are anywhere.

Even though they have a whole yard to free range in, they seem to be homebodies. They seem to hang out either under the covered patio or close to it, and under the large tree near their coop. They venture into the grass abit to eat, but never far from cover. Half the time I don't even have to get them to go back in their coop, I'll just look outside and they have put themselves back in and I just close the door (and this is in the middle of the day, mind you). They are only ever in about 20% of the yard.

Is this a common breed trait? Do Aussies tend to be homebodies? I don't mind at all, one of the reasons I got this breed was because they would be OK being locked up, and it certainly feels good to know they like hanging out in their coop. I feel a lot less guilty that they can't spend more time in the yard!

 

[bruceha2000]

Since this thread has been kind of quiet lately, I thought I'd ask a question. My 3 Aussies are now 20 weeks old, and they are the only chickens I've ever had. They spend most of their time in their coop and closed run, but several times a week I let them out of the coop to free range around my back yard when I lock the dogs inside. I have a reasonably large backyard considering I live in the middle of the city, but it's just a backyard, surrounded by a 6' block wall. Here in AZ there are hawks and such, not many in the city. Coyotes can be an issue but I've never seen any within miles of my house. For the most part they are about as safe here as any free range chickens are anywhere.

Even though they have a whole yard to free range in, they seem to be homebodies. They seem to hang out either under the covered patio or close to it, and under the large tree near their coop. They venture into the grass abit to eat, but never far from cover. Half the time I don't even have to get them to go back in their coop, I'll just look outside and they have put themselves back in and I just close the door (and this is in the middle of the day, mind you). They are only ever in about 20% of the yard.

Is this a common breed trait? Do Aussies tend to be homebodies? I don't mind at all, one of the reasons I got this breed was because they would be OK being locked up, and it certainly feels good to know they like hanging out in their coop. I feel a lot less guilty that they can't spend more time in the yard!

I think it might be a "chicken thing"

My 16 birds follow a fairly regular daily pattern. (*) When I open the barn in the morning they are in the run (coop is a converted horse stall, run is the barn alley, they have a photo sensor operated PulletShut door) waiting for their morning kitchen scraps and BOSS.

If the weather is decent (ie not a lot of snow on the ground and not really cold and windy) they will forage around. Once the sun gets higher in the sky they hang out in any number of places: the barn (never in the coop except to lay, eat or drink), under the deck behind the house, under the lilac bushes next to the stairs to either the front porch or the rear deck. There is also a piece of the old rear deck behind the barn and a small tree growing against the barn they will hang under. Some may decide to forage now and then. They will come out if I am outside and wander/forage (I'm the protective rooster????) after they figure out I didn't bring them food (chickens are ALL about food).

They come back out later in the day when the sun gets a bit lower and will be closer to the barn as it gets even lower. They head to the barn when it gets close to sunset. They get scratch just outside the coop every night and will come charging up the hill to "greet" me (read MOOCH!) if it is still fairly light outside. If I'm late, they are already up on the roosts but will come down for their "chicken crack" before I can close the people door to the coop.

I don't know if they "hide" during the "high sun" periods because it is hot or because they think (and may be right) it is unsafe to be out. That said, I lost an EE to a fox the end of April 2014 and a Partridge Chantecler end of April last year. BOTH were later in the day and BOTH were fairly close to the barn.

* They are allowed to free range any time we are home and your 6' block wall is a LOT safer than their 3'-4' chicken wire "enclosure" (it surrounds a pond and barnyard behind the barn) and the unfenced rest of the area they self limit to. They seem to go no farther than about 100' from a building. There are no woods close by so I don't know if they would go there if they were close. I read of other peoples' chickens foraging in the woods.

 

[appps]

Mine of all breeds have always preferred the more under cover areas to the wide expanses of lawn. Recently a hawk got one it was on the lawn so think there is a reason the stay close to cover and safety. Keep an eye there isn't something flying around making them that bit more nervous and less likely to wander.