Australorps breed Thread

[appps]

Oh ok. So my prices arent ridiculous but i should consider lowering them a bit

Well I'd use it as a reference but if you can sell them at say $10 for a day old that's great. If they don't sell at that price then you know where to come down to. At the end of the day though your prices should really be dictated by your costs and what sort of profit you want to make on top of that not what others are charging. If you are only breaking even there's no point doing it really.

So what everyone else charges is a guide but for all you know they might all be loosing money by the time they feed them for 12 weeks. So you need to do your own sums too rather than all going broke together by copying each other if that makes sense

 

[bruceha2000]

I am new to chickens. Actually, I don't have any chickens or a coop yet. Our city just approved backyard chickens. We can have a maximum of 6-no roosters. I am considering getting 2 black australorps. But, not sure what else. Are australorps friendly? What breeds are good to add into a small flock with australorps and what are breeds to stay away from? Can I add a polish crested? Someone in another thread recommended not adding bantams because of their small size. Thanks for the help.

My BAs aren't troublemakers and I got 2 more last June to go with the 2 I got 4 years ago. I would definitely stay away from Anconas unless one has a flock of only Mediterranean breeds. Mine find it necessary to frequently "remind" the other birds that they are the top of the pecking order even though they are never challenged. Sort of like a bully that wants to be sure you are too afraid to even THINK about standing up for yourself, always have to watch your back. My understanding is that, generally speaking, the Mediterranean breeds tend to be aggressive to other birds.

I LOVE my Easter Eggers. They bother no one, are pretty and lay blue or green eggs. (*) My 4 Y/O EE is still laying 2-3 eggs every 3-4 days. She has never gone broody nor has she ever laid in the winter yet her laying history is 49% of the days since she laid her first egg. The three 1 Y/O ones have laid between 64% and 77% of the days possible since their first egg. They have slowed some in the past month maybe due to the heat or the stress of being more enclosed after the raccoon "incident" even though the 14 girls have over 8 sq ft of floor space each in the coop and 35' of roost at 2 levels. They are used to not being locked up and I think even though they have more coop space than the "average" backyard hen and more run space (the entire 50' long barn alley) they had access to the great outdoors from morning to dusk daily so are used to much more space than the 10x12 coop. I killed the raccoon and reconnected the auto door to the coop so they aren't confined other than at night any more and there seems to be less visible evidence of bullying on the more docile breeds.

I personally am not interested in "foofy" birds so I can't comment on those breeds and their temperament.

Understand that after their first winter the girls are not likely to lay (or not many will) during the winter unless you force them with 14 hours of light daily. And ... since you don't have any now and you get day old chicks, they likely won't start laying until about March and will moult in the fall, missing their "first winter before first adult moult" prime laying period. At least I think so

I got my birds in June both times and they all laid well their first winter, even the Cubalayas (killed by a raccoon a month or so ago) which are truly a "yard art" bird, not a laying breed.

I see from other posts that you are in Northern CA, you can put your location (general!) in your profile so people can know what sort of climate you have when you ask questions. And I will short circuit some of them now

• Chickens DO NOT need heat in the winter. They have a very nice down coat that they wear year round and get a "new" one every summer or fall. Mine regularly see temps well below 0F and have no problems. Overheating in summer in a hot climate is a bigger problem.
• Most commercial coop sellers lie like rugs when they say their coops will hold 'n' chickens. MINIMUM is 2 sq feet per bird of floor space and that is ONLY if they are never confined to the coop other than at night. They need 1 foot of roost per bird
• Ventilation in the coop is PARAMOUNT
• Check out this thread if you have not done so yet: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/596294/post-your-chicken-coop-pictures-here You will see some AMAZINGLY fancy coops there and some very basic coops. The chickens do not care how fancy the coop is. You can make a larger basic coop than the commercial ones for less money with minimal building skills and tools.

* Be aware that MOST large hatcheries sell "Americanas" (which is not recognized as anything other than an intentional misspelling of "Ameraucana" an APA recognized breed) or even use the APA recognized Ameraucana name or Araucana (an APA breed with ear tufts and no tail, you can not currently buy one from ANY large hatchery) but are IN FACT selling Easter Eggers. An APA Ameraucana will ALWAYS be sold by their color. Meyer is honest, carrying both Blue Ameraucana (expensive, another tip that the other hatcheries aren't selling APA Ameraucana) and Easter Eggers. Ideal claims they are selling Ameraucana and even told me in 2012 that their birds ARE true Ameraucana because there is no EE breed. The last part is true, the first part is not. There is no APA recognized breed for all the variously named red or black sex links either which is why there are so many names like Red Stars, Cinnamon Queen, Golden Comets. Ideal seems to have no problem selling "unrecognized breed" Gold Sex Links but won't admit that they are selling "unrecognized breed" Easter Eggers.

Quote:
I think we need to consider that @AustralorpsAU is in Australia. One of their dollars is currently worth $0.77 USD.

Quote:
And given you have no history, people would likely look to those that do if the prices are similar. Build up your reputation as an honest seller of quality birds, then you can raise the price. But like @appps said, don't go broke doing it

 

[AustralorpsAU]

Well I'd use it as a reference but if you can sell them at say $10 for a day old that's great. If they don't sell at that price then you know where to come down to. At the end of the day though your prices should really be dictated by your costs and what sort of profit you want to make on top of that not what others are charging. If you are only breaking even there's no point doing it really.

So what everyone else charges is a guide but for all you know they might all be loosing money by the time they feed them for 12 weeks. So you need to do your own sums too rather than all going broke together by copying each other if that makes sense

Thanks. Some wise words and will take into account

From Bruceha2000 (sorry quote didnt work)
I think we need to consider that @AustralorpsAU
 is in Australia. One of their dollars is currently worth $0.77 USD. 


And given you have no history, people would likely look to those that do if the prices are similar. Build up your reputation as an honest seller of quality birds, then you can raise the price. But like @appps
 said, don't go broke doing it   
[/quote]
Also very wise words that i will also take into consideration. I appreciate everybodys feedback

 

[Magnolia7330]

My BAs aren't troublemakers and I got 2 more last June to go with the 2 I got 4 years ago. I would definitely stay away from Anconas unless one has a flock of only Mediterranean breeds. Mine find it necessary to frequently "remind" the other birds that they are the top of the pecking order even though they are never challenged. Sort of like a bully that wants to be sure you are too afraid to even THINK about standing up for yourself, always have to watch your back. My understanding is that, generally speaking, the Mediterranean breeds tend to be aggressive to other birds.

I LOVE my Easter Eggers. They bother no one, are pretty and lay blue or green eggs. (*) My 4 Y/O EE is still laying 2-3 eggs every 3-4 days. She has never gone broody nor has she ever laid in the winter yet her laying history is 49% of the days since she laid her first egg. The three 1 Y/O ones have laid between 64% and 77% of the days possible since their first egg. They have slowed some in the past month maybe due to the heat or the stress of being more enclosed after the raccoon "incident" even though the 14 girls have over 8 sq ft of floor space each in the coop and 35' of roost at 2 levels. They are used to not being locked up and I think even though they have more coop space than the "average" backyard hen and more run space (the entire 50' long barn alley) they had access to the great outdoors from morning to dusk daily so are used to much more space than the 10x12 coop. I killed the raccoon and reconnected the auto door to the coop so they aren't confined other than at night any more and there seems to be less visible evidence of bullying on the more docile breeds.

I personally am not interested in "foofy" birds so I can't comment on those breeds and their temperament.

Understand that after their first winter the girls are not likely to lay (or not many will) during the winter unless you force them with 14 hours of light daily. And ... since you don't have any now and you get day old chicks, they likely won't start laying until about March and will moult in the fall, missing their "first winter before first adult moult" prime laying period. At least I think so

I got my birds in June both times and they all laid well their first winter, even the Cubalayas (killed by a raccoon a month or so ago) which are truly a "yard art" bird, not a laying breed.

I see from other posts that you are in Northern CA, you can put your location (general!) in your profile so people can know what sort of climate you have when you ask questions. And I will short circuit some of them now

• Chickens DO NOT need heat in the winter. They have a very nice down coat that they wear year round and get a "new" one every summer or fall. Mine regularly see temps well below 0F and have no problems. Overheating in summer in a hot climate is a bigger problem.
• Most commercial coop sellers lie like rugs when they say their coops will hold 'n' chickens. MINIMUM is 2 sq feet per bird of floor space and that is ONLY if they are never confined to the coop other than at night. They need 1 foot of roost per bird
• Ventilation in the coop is PARAMOUNT
• Check out this thread if you have not done so yet: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/596294/post-your-chicken-coop-pictures-here You will see some AMAZINGLY fancy coops there and some very basic coops. The chickens do not care how fancy the coop is. You can make a larger basic coop than the commercial ones for less money with minimal building skills and tools.

* Be aware that MOST large hatcheries sell "Americanas" (which is not recognized as anything other than an intentional misspelling of "Ameraucana" an APA recognized breed) or even use the APA recognized Ameraucana name or Araucana (an APA breed with ear tufts and no tail, you can not currently buy one from ANY large hatchery) but are IN FACT selling Easter Eggers. An APA Ameraucana will ALWAYS be sold by their color. Meyer is honest, carrying both Blue Ameraucana (expensive, another tip that the other hatcheries aren't selling APA Ameraucana) and Easter Eggers. Ideal claims they are selling Ameraucana and even told me in 2012 that their birds ARE true Ameraucana because there is no EE breed. The last part is true, the first part is not. There is no APA recognized breed for all the variously named red or black sex links either which is why there are so many names like Red Stars, Cinnamon Queen, Golden Comets. Ideal seems to have no problem selling "unrecognized breed" Gold Sex Links but won't admit that they are selling "unrecognized breed" Easter Eggers.


I think we need to consider that @AustralorpsAU is in Australia. One of their dollars is currently worth $0.77 USD.


And given you have no history, people would likely look to those that do if the prices are similar. Build up your reputation as an honest seller of quality birds, then you can raise the price. But like @appps said, don't go broke doing it

This was extremely helpful. Thank you. I think we are going to definitely get 2 australorps. I am still talking my boyfriend in to 1 or 2 more birds because I believe 2 is too few (and many have suggested at least 3 or 4). I have also been thinking of getting easter eggers and/or welsummer. I can't wait until we get the coop built and get the chickens!

 

[RanchRichey]

This was extremely helpful. Thank you. I think we are going to definitely get 2 australorps. I am still talking my boyfriend in to 1 or 2 more birds because I believe 2 is too few (and many have suggested at least 3 or 4). I have also been thinking of getting easter eggers and/or welsummer. I can't wait until we get the coop built and get the chickens!

We have 2 each: Black Australorps, Easter Eggers, Welsummer/production Red Cross and Golden Sex links.

They are making a lovely flock. My Easter Eggers have the most personality, the Golden Sex links are the friendliest and the Australorps are beautiful, good layers so far and gentle.

 

[Gramma Chick]

This was extremely helpful. Thank you. I think we are going to definitely get 2 australorps. I am still talking my boyfriend in to 1 or 2 more birds because I believe 2 is too few (and many have suggested at least 3 or 4). I have also been thinking of getting easter eggers and/or welsummer. I can't wait until we get the coop built and get the chickens!

I have various breeds ..My aussies are sweet ..
The Easter eggers are neat because they can lay green , blue or brown eggs ..
If you breed them you never know what color they will be .


These 4 pullets in front are all easter eggers

 

[Lil Jon s mama]

Good morning. I will be picking up some 13 week old australorps today. If they are really boys will it be easy enough to tell with this breed. I'm also getting speckled Sussex if anyone knows about that breed to. Thanks

 

[appps]

Good morning. I will be picking up some 13 week old australorps today. If they are really boys will it be easy enough to tell with this breed. I'm also getting speckled Sussex if anyone knows about that breed to. Thanks

If you pick the smallest combs by that age you should be fairly safe.

 

[Lil Jon s mama]

. My newbies

 

[Gramma Chick]

My newbies

Looks like aussie Girls ..the speckled Sussex sure are pretty