Automatic Chicken Coop Door - Auto Closes Coop - Beta Version 1.0

[shiphorns]

It came to mind when I saw these rods on sale in the Enco flyer I got yesterday ( http://www.use-enco.com ). A 3' piece of rod is $4 on sale from $11, and the nuts are $1.50 each. This is for regular steel, suitable for use if your mechanism is inside the coop. Things get about 10X as expensive if you want stainless, for which my go-to place would be McMaster-Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com )

Any DIYer should know about these two mail-order, no-minimum supply companies, regardless of whether they want an acme rod...

 

[Pine Ridge Ranch]

OK I didn't read all the replies so if this idea has been mentioned I apologize. I am a big fan of Craigslist especially the free stuff.

Why not use an old screw drive garage door opener. All you need to do is shorten the screw to whatever length you need and use it to raise the pop door.

Heck you could even use the reversing eyes so the door wouldn't close if a bird was on the ramp.

It could work!

 

[Peepthis541]

After losing 3 hens to raccoons/possums on 3 occasions, two which were break in's to the hen house, I decided to design a better coop door.

For a while, I was working on a threaded rod design, but I ran into complications due to wobbling of the rod and that affecting the whole system. Basically, I had to attach the motor rod to the threaded rod. I did this with a weld, but there was enough wobble for it not to work well. I'll probably just use that motor/rod setup for another auto door which uses the winding of twine on the rod. That is my current design, which is similar to my original.

The difference with this design is that the door closes like a guillotine and rests in a frame or sleeve, if you will. That way, there are no door edges or cracks for a predator to work the door open from. It would have to either pull the cord up to open the door, and also manage to get inside, or actually slide the door up with paw pressure and lift from the front of the door. Both ideas I think are too complex for a raccoon/possum.
This door stays with my original intention of economy and practicality, and I think its a lot safer than the top hinged door I had before.

As I write this, I just thought of an alternative design, which would be a bottom hinged door that would open like a draw bridge. The twine would be mounted on the inside top (when closed) corners of the door and then feed through to a single winding spool controlled by a motor and identical timer system I have now. This way, a predator would not be able to pull open the door that is essentially cinched shut by the twine and held fixed by the motor. I suppose keeping twine out of the way of the hens would be an issue, even if its fixed on the corners of the drawbridge.

Anyway, I am gonna roll with the guillotine design for now and see if any complications arise. The door/timer/mechanism is now even more out of the weather, which I like as well. I just took a photo after completion so some wires still need to be tidied up.

If anyone is interested, the motor cost about 12 bucks on ebay, two switches cost about $4 a piece, a double pole double throw relay cost 10 bucks. I got the two timers at Goodwill for less than $3 a piece. The wood and other materials are all reused from other projects.

Dave

 

[Peepthis541]

Here are some pics of a door I just completed for some friends. The total cost of materials, not including some recycled materials I had laying around was just under $70.

I am very happy with the door design. I am actually going to remount the motor above the door, under the eave of the roof, which is not visible in these pics.

So far, I haven't found a real easy way to join the motor rod to anything that will act as a spool rod for the nylon string that winds up the door. This particular design had a weld. My friend who helped me said the weld to the motor rod was a bit tricky, and it definitely doesn't look as clean as if I were to just get the right fastener, like a specialized nut.

Auto opening and closing door. Version 2, model 2.
The existing door that was replaced.

A shot of the complete door & frame setup before installation.

The sliding door. Fiberglass with aluminum frame.

Installed door & frame before installing the motor.

A view of the opening of the coop through the door frame.

Just before completing installation.

Completed door. There were some issues re: motor strength in opening the door. Either because of where the motor was mounted, or because the motor did not have enough torque, power, or was damaged. I am going to reposition the motor to see if it helps. It had to be mounted there because of short wires, and I didn't bring extra.

 

[spiderkarma]

Here is a door made from a document scanner:

http://www.chickensitter.com/2009/projects/door-o-matic

 

[Nifty-Chicken]

<I fixed your link, there was an extra http in there>

That is a FANTASTIC idea and one that hasn't been brought up in this fun thread! Do you have info on how you built it and how it is controlled?

Edited to add:
Nevermind, saw it here: http://www.chickensitter.com/2009/projects/door-o-matic-howto

 

[Peepthis541]

Boy, and I thought my wiring was advanced!

 

[Nifty-Chicken]

Good news: This thing is a champ and has probably saved my hens lives over and over again.

Bad news: False sense of security...

For the last week we've noticed that my mom (lives next to us) has been getting up really early and letting the chickens out. The first few times I didn't think much of it, but then I thought I should ask her about it... but never did.

10 minutes ago I was reading this thread and thought about how terrible if feels to loose birds. I decided to go out and do a check in on the coop... the auto door closer was WIDE OPEN!

I manually set the timer and could hear the actuator trying to pull, but the door didn't fall. Closer inspection showed that the pin was just barely stuck in place... enough that the actuator didn't have enough strength to bust it free.

I oiled the rod a little which should do the trick temporarily, but will probably really polish things up a bit to ensure it doesn't happen again.

Just thought I'd post this to remind anyone that any system (manual or automatic) has failure points. So glad the nasty coons in the area must be on vacation in Hawaii! PHEW

 

[FarmrGirl]

Quote:
Hey Dave,

Love your design... seems fairly simple AND cheap

I have a question tho... did you use the same set-up you've got on your BYC page for your two latest coop door designs? I can't tell from the pics if you're using two timers or one.

Thanks!

 

[Peepthis541]

I had been using two timers at first, but then realized that only one was necessary. Basically, the timer decides when to activate the relay, which switches the polarity of the motor. I discovered only one was necessary after setting up my third door. I've done 4 setups now, all using the same electronics configuration, but my last door uses a threaded rod open/close construction. I will post pictures of it in action when I have a little more time. So far it is working well. I think now that the electronics config is sorted out, I have been trying to concentrate on the aesthetics of the system, like keeping the wires tidy, and making sure it is all weatherproof. I think with my next door I will get into streamlining the wires and soldering. Also, I've incorporated 12V computer fans for ventilation on my latest coop. My ideal is to wire them into the door configuration so there is ventilation in the day, and it shuts off at night. However its been so hot here in Oregon, it helps to have it on 24 hrs.

Pics coming soon!

Dave