B.Y.C. Dorking Club!

I've got a Dorking conundrum. I got some day-olds from Sandhill at the beginning or March. I've got 4 remaining birds (Coloreds and Blacks) and 3 of them are still of indeterminate gender... meaning that they aren't laying, crowing, or mating. The other Dorking started laying at about 6 months old, but they are now 8 1/2 months old. They all have very average size combs that don't scream, "Cockerel!". Is it odd that I still can't tell yet, or are they really that slow to develop? All of the other assorted chicks I got from Sandhill at the same hatch are either laying or gone to the dinner table. The Dorkings are the only mystery birds.
That is unusual. All my Sandhill Reds were very distinctive by the time they were 4 months old, and all but one were obvious by 2-3 months. There are several things you can look for apart from comb size and behavior.

Body mass -- the males will be "sturdier." Not only should they weigh more, but their legs will be thicker (legs like tree trunks is the quote I remember), their toes will be longer, they will have a larger spur bud, the legs will be further apart because the chest will be wider, the base of the comb will be wider as a foundation for the future huge structure that it will have to hold up, the skull will be wider, etc.

Males have different specialty feathers than females. Look closely at the saddle feathers and hackle feathers. The tips will be more rounded on the females and will "stay still" when running. The tips on the males will be more pointy and have a flowy/shimmery movement when the bird is running. Also, the tail feathers are quite different. The females have just plain tail feathers that they tend to hold in a point (instead of a fan or an arch). The males have the plain tail feathers, but tend to hold them more in an arch. Additionally, they have two sets of sickle feathers that arch over the shorter tail feathers. The first set, if it were to be stretched out straight, is only about 1 1/2 - 2 times the length of the tail itself, and is likely the only ones that 8 month olds would have. As they get older, the males develop a few relatively long sickles that are 3-4 times the length of the tail. The feathers around the head and face are different also. The tiny feathers right beside the comb on the male tend to stick straight up, whereas on the female these feathers lay flat, giving the head a smoother and more feminine appearance.

In the colored dorking, there should be an obvious color difference between the males and females. There are lots of specifics, but basically the female is mostly black/dark brown with beautiful straw shafting to many feathers, especially the hackles, whereas the male has straw colored hackles and parts of the wing and saddle feathers (and probably others -- I don't have colored dorkings so don't know all the specifics). But the colored dorkings are very hard (some say impossible) to breed the proper colors for both genders in the same breeding line, so your specific birds may not show the colors prescribed by the SOP. There are some wonderful pictures of colored dorkings in this thread, as well as the Dorking Breeder's Club web site.

The fact that no one is breeding and no one is crowing would make me suspect that you have all females, and three of them just don't want to lay this time of year. Even though dorkings are famous for being winter layers (my May 2012 pullets started in October/November 2012), laying this time of year is quite contrary to normal chicken physiology. They are regulated by photoperiod, which is the number of hours they are exposed to daylight. When the days start getting shorter (in August, right when yours were 6 months old and should be entering their point of lay), most chickens turn off their hormonal cascade that allows egg production. Then when the days start getting longer (late January/early February), they start up again. So it's not at all temperature dependant, it's light dependent. And for breeds that break the rules, like Dorkings, it's not consistant. My 2012 pullets that started laying in October 2012 layed all through the winter, then stopped in July/August 2013. They've not restarted, but based on the rooster's behavior I suspect they'll start again within another month (he stopped chasing the girls and became VERY sweet to me when they stopped laying-- this week he started the rooster dance again and is very suspicious of me whenever I'm holding one of his hens).

If any of your three undetermined chicks are males, their lack of breeding/crowing/(and I assume fighting) behavior is quite unusual. There's nothing like the sex drive and bravado of a teenage boy, regardless of the species!!

Please post pictures, ideally from multiple angles. An experienced breeder may be able to tell you which gender they are.

--April
 
Ok, I've got a bit of a dilemma...

I'm trying to figure out the show entries for the show in Knoxville, but can't decide on who to take...

I've got 8 silver grey girls and 2 roos, 4 red girls (all different shades of red, from very light to very dark), 1 colored.

I'd love nothing more than to take them all, but that's not realistic.

the colored, reds and probably 2 or 3 of the silver greys have great size and type IMO. the 2 roos are both very nice, but I like big guy's type better than the other, but the other has better feet than big guy (he's had multiple injuries to his extra toes)...

so how do I decide who goes and who stays?
Take the ones that have the best chance of winning, so think like a show judge. Look up how many points are given for each feature, and how many are deducted for each fault. Then look at each of your birds very critically and decide how many points they're likely to get. Eliminate any bird that is sick or is not likely to show well due to excessive shyness or sensitivity to noise or travel or stress, or any bird that is in poor condition right now due to molting or injury or anything else.

And don't forget to bathe them. It makes them look their best, allows you to check them over very well, gives you an idea of how they handle stressful situations, and is respectful to the judge, who has to handle hundreds of birds -- hopefully not dirty ones. Good luck.

--April
 
Red Dorkings in the UK are different somehow than the US reds.

I didn't realize until recently Mr. Russell had Dorkings. He's had them a very long time so, they must be very nice quality.

Good for you for getting such a nice pair. Good luck!
 
Red Dorkings in the UK are different somehow than the US reds.

I didn't realize until recently Mr. Russell had Dorkings. He's had them a very long time so, they must be very nice quality.

Good for you for getting such a nice pair. Good luck!
Thanks! Hope they produce well. And, he is not so far away, so I'll be asking for advice on what to keep off of them when the time comes.
 
I have been wanting Silver Grey Dorkings, and have attempted to hatch two sets of eggs now. The first time I got one chick and it dies two weeks later (I was devastated). This last time I got one chick and it's almost a week old and is doing much better and seems to be thriving.

So when I was at an auction last night and I heard these two were SGD, I snapped them up. Now I have them, and I honestly don't know enough to know if they're true Dorkings or mixed. I know the photos below aren't the best, and I'll have to get more when I get them in their forever home instead of isolation, but do they look lime SGD to you guys? They have the five toes.

400

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Ok... I know some will not like this post but as I am unfamiliar with the genetics I need some info. These are a pair of F2 birds from my Salmon Faverolles out crossed to Dorking project. The original cross was to Rose Comb Whites and most of the birds in the F1 generation were white with salmon leakage... while most chicks this generation were salmonish, I did get these two beauties, about 5 months old for the pullet and 3 months old for the cockerel in these pictures. My question is this; how close are they to normal silver coloring? Obviously I will not know what they will be as adults, but they appear to have zero leakage so they might eventually breed true if worked with for a few generations.

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I have been wanting Silver Grey Dorkings, and have attempted to hatch two sets of eggs now. The first time I got one chick and it dies two weeks later (I was devastated). This last time I got one chick and it's almost a week old and is doing much better and seems to be thriving.

So when I was at an auction last night and I heard these two were SGD, I snapped them up. Now I have them, and I honestly don't know enough to know if they're true Dorkings or mixed. I know the photos below aren't the best, and I'll have to get more when I get them in their forever home instead of isolation, but do they look lime SGD to you guys? They have the five toes.


put them on the floor and then sit on the floor with them and take pics from their level... easier to say for sure if they are standing naturally, not held up and hunched over. there are other breeds that come in silver, but none have 5 toes. but their stance will say more definitely if they are dorking or maybe a cross...
 
Ok... I know some will not like this post but as I am unfamiliar with the genetics I need some info. These are a pair of F2 birds from my Salmon Faverolles out crossed to Dorking project. The original cross was to Rose Comb Whites and most of the birds in the F1 generation were white with salmon leakage... while most chicks this generation were salmonish, I did get these two beauties, about 5 months old for the pullet and 3 months old for the cockerel in these pictures. My question is this; how close are they to normal silver coloring? Obviously I will not know what they will be as adults, but they appear to have zero leakage so they might eventually breed true if worked with for a few generations.
Neither look silver to me... but what is your goal? to breed back to the faverolles or to breed back to the silver greys? if to breed back to dorkings, why? especially when there are much better dorkings already available.

if you're trying to breed back to the faverolles, then why does it matter if they have leakage or not, since the base color is supposed to be red not silver?

sorry but i'm a bit lost here. when you work on a project it helps to have a clear goal in mind, so you (or others) can determine where the project is going...
 
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Ok... I know some will not like this post but as I am unfamiliar with the genetics I need some info. These are a pair of F2 birds from my Salmon Faverolles out crossed to Dorking project. The original cross was to Rose Comb Whites and most of the birds in the F1 generation were white with salmon leakage... while most chicks this generation were salmonish, I did get these two beauties, about 5 months old for the pullet and 3 months old for the cockerel in these pictures. My question is this; how close are they to normal silver coloring? Obviously I will not know what they will be as adults, but they appear to have zero leakage so they might eventually breed true if worked with for a few generations.


 
I have been wanting Silver Grey Dorkings, and have attempted to hatch two sets of eggs now. The first time I got one chick and it dies two weeks later (I was devastated). This last time I got one chick and it's almost a week old and is doing much better and seems to be thriving.

So when I was at an auction last night and I heard these two were SGD, I snapped them up. Now I have them, and I honestly don't know enough to know if they're true Dorkings or mixed. I know the photos below aren't the best, and I'll have to get more when I get them in their forever home instead of isolation, but do they look lime SGD to you guys? They have the five toes.



Quote: They look fine .... they are just young Silver Dorkings (got some growing to do)

Good luck with them
 

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