Baby chicks, How long until I need that coop built?

[rosemarythyme]

I brooded indoors. By 5 weeks or so I'd had enough of the dust and the smell and we needed the bathtub they were brooding in, so they HAD to go. But I already had the coop in place so even though I kicked them out earlier than anticipated we were fine.

So I really suggest building the coop or at least having it mostly done, before the chicks arrive. Building or even installing one will always take longer than you anticipate, things come up or things go wrong, or you end up not being able to keep them in the brooder as long as you think (due to space, smell, anything), so I really think it's better to be set up and ready to go right at the start.

 

[Spartan22]

If I may chime in, This is my 4th time to brood chicks in our garage (4-6 wks max) since it's single digits at night here where I live.
They do create a lot of dust, to prevent smell I keep the brooder

boxes dry by topping the beddings as needed and cleaning them every 3 days. I use 2 big furniture boxes duct taped together to make couple of rooms w/ door

cutout to pass thru. One room for feeding and drinking, the other w/ heat lamp for sleeping (w/ perches - they learn to perch the 2nd week) and to keep them warm (95* first 2 wks and decreases every week after)I have 2 lights on timers, one for day and one for night to have the chicks get used to day/night cycle.

Our garage is not heated but remain in 40s since it's attached to the house. After 4-6 wks they get moved to the coop w/ the layer hens w/ separation screens (temps varies from teens to 30s). I normally get my chicks

in January/February so they will start laying eggs by June/July when my older layers will starts slowing down few months later (August/September)

 

[EggSighted4Life]

If I may chime in, This is my 4th time to brood chicks in our garage (4-6 wks max) since it's single digits at night here where I live.
They do create a lot of dust, to prevent smell I keep the brooder

boxes dry by topping the beddings as needed and cleaning them every 3 days. I use 2 big furniture boxes duct taped together to make couple of rooms w/ door

cutout to pass thru. One room for feeding and drinking, the other w/ heat lamp for sleeping (w/ perches - they learn to perch the 2nd week) and to keep them warm (95* first 2 wks and decreases every week after)I have 2 lights on timers, one for day and one for night to have the chicks get used to day/night cycle.

Our garage is not heated but remain in 40s since it's attached to the house. After 4-6 wks they get moved to the coop w/ the layer hens w/ separation screens (temps varies from teens to 30s). I normally get my chicks

in January/February so they will start laying eggs by June/July when my older layers will starts slowing down few months later (August/September)

I used almost the exact same brooder set up & cleaning.

Mama heating pad is the best idea. But at least you are working with a day night cycle. I have brooded too many under lamps.

 

[Merrymouse]

If I may chime in, This is my 4th time to brood chicks in our garage (4-6 wks max) since it's single digits at night here where I live.
They do create a lot of dust, to prevent smell I keep the brooder

boxes dry by topping the beddings as needed and cleaning them every 3 days. I use 2 big furniture boxes duct taped together to make couple of rooms w/ door

cutout to pass thru. One room for feeding and drinking, the other w/ heat lamp for sleeping (w/ perches - they learn to perch the 2nd week) and to keep them warm (95* first 2 wks and decreases every week after)I have 2 lights on timers, one for day and one for night to have the chicks get used to day/night cycle.

Our garage is not heated but remain in 40s since it's attached to the house. After 4-6 wks they get moved to the coop w/ the layer hens w/ separation screens (temps varies from teens to 30s). I normally get my chicks

in January/February so they will start laying eggs by June/July when my older layers will starts slowing down few months later (August/September)

Thank you. That is the fanciest cardboard box ever! Never thought of the perches, great idea.

 

[Spartan22]

Learned from the 1st batch of chickens, I didn't have perches early enough, I had to teach them to perch @4 months old. When they went to the coop, they used to pile up in one corner too long. When I got my second batch of chicks

, I gave them low perches and they thought themselves, smart birds, stupid humans forcing them to be on the ground too long stepping on their poos.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Thank you. That is the fanciest cardboard box ever! Never thought of the perches, great idea.

I use perches in my brooders as well. They start using them very young. Usually just for hanging out more than sleeping. But it's great practice for balance and such. And before long they mature to sleeping perched.

 

[aart]

IMO...1 week....haha!

They grow fast.....I'd not get chicks until coop was ready, it can take a long time to build a cop, especially if in experienced.
Better to take your time and get it right than rush thru.

 

[3riverschick]

Again, another question from me. I have a feeling you're all going to be sick of me by the time I actually get my chickens. Anyway, its winter here and the ground is frozen solid so no chance of starting my coop yet. How long do the chicks generally stay in your garage or whatever before they have to go in the coop? Trying to plan when I can get my chicks and still have time to get my coop built. Ive never built anything and my husband hasnt built all that much either but we're gonna give it a go but it may take a while. Planning, planning and more planning

1. 1 thru 4 weeks in brooder, need 1 sq.. ft.. per bird for large fowl, 1/2 that for bantams.
2. 4 thru 8 weeks in a "grow out" pen. Need 1.5 sq., ft., per bird large fowl, 1/2 that for bantams.
3. 8 weeks thru 12 weeks, need 2-3 sq.. ft.. per bird, 1/2 tat for bantams.
4. Over 12 weeks thru adult , need 4 sq. ft.. per bird large fowl, 1/2 that for bantams.
5. Adult large fowl need 4 sq. ft. per bird inside nd 10 sq. ft. per bird outside. 1/2 that for bantams.

When my large fowl Light Sussex reached 5 weeks and didn't need heat any more, I made grow out pens from triple thick cardboard watermelon corrals. In the business, they are called "Gaylords". If you call around, companies may have some.
1. Put a cheap tarp on the ground.
2. Set the Gaylord on the tarp.
3.Fill interior with 4-6 inches of white bale kiln dried shavings from Tractor Supply.
hardwood, not softwood shavings.
4. Set feeder and waterer on raised platform. It should be at the height of the birds back so you will continue to have to raise it as they grow.
5. Get some chicken wire and make a weighted cover for the Gaylord so they don't fly out.

A watermelon Gaylord has 15 sq. ft.. interior space. You can easily raise 7 large fowl to 3 months old in it. I had 7 gaylords going with 42 Light Sussex total. It was a huge success. When you are done, bag the chips, toss the Gaylord, save the wire. Easy peasey.
Best,
Karen

 

[3riverschick]

Hi,
On building that coop? Do yourself a favor and check out the Woods Open Air Coop. Dr. Woods was a genius at ventilation and the physics of such in this house makes it perfect for climates that get cold in the winter. Plans come in several sizes including for a small backyard flock. Here's the URL below to read his classic book online. It revolutionized the building of poultry houses in cold climates.
Read Chapter 8 first. Page 130 shows the 6x10 Woods Coop or 15 large fowl.
Best,
Karen
( Who has sold all three of her old coops to build Woods Open Air this year for the new flock.)

Modern fresh-air poultry houses; a new book on common sense housing of poultry--plans,
dimensions and instructions for building open-front poultry houses and fresh-air equipment
--fresh-air methods and open-air living--most practical and desirable for successful
poultry keeping in all climates; fully illustrated with reproductions from original drawings
and photographs, by Prince T. Woods, M. D.
by Woods, Prince Tannat, 1870-
Published 1924
https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=coo.31924003138272;view=1up;seq=7

 

[3riverschick]

From Dr. Woods' book
Pages 177 and 178.

Why Open-Front Is Better
Summarizing the evidence already presented herewith are a dozen
reasons why the open-front poultry house is better than the closed
type. The semi-monitor type of open-front poultry house possesses
these advantages:
1. It supplies an abundance of fresh-air at all times, day and
night, particularly at night when much needed.
2. Plenty of sunshine and light penetrate practically all parts of
. the house.
3. High windows in monitor admit sunlight to rear of house.
4. It is a dry house, having free circulation of air at all times.
5. There is more room for the fowls.
6. The floor space is less obstructed.
7. It is more comfortable than a closed house.
8. An open-front is more humane than the closed building.
9. Fowls prefer the open-front house.
10. Easy to care for and keep clean. Practically "fool proof."
11. Not expensive to build.
12. Simple in construction, a novice can build one.
Beneficial Results of Fresh-Air
The benefits which the poultry and their owner derive from open-
front housing and fresh-air methods of caring for poultry of all ages
are many. These beneficial results of fresh-air living may be summed
up as follows:
1. Both chicks and fowls enjoy better health.
2. They are more vigorous and hardy.
3. They possess greater vitality.
4. They have greater power to resist disease.
5. The pullets and hens produce more eggs.
6. Eggs show a higher percentage fertility.
/. The eggs hatch better.
8. Better, strong, hardy, livable chicks.
9. Birds of all ages are less affected by weather changes.
10. There is less danger of frosted combs and wattles.
11. The birds have better and more lustrous plumage with finer
texture and better color.
12. Fresh-air flocks do not consume any more food than closed-
house flocks and they make better use of their food.