Back for a second try - after improvements and upgrades

midget_farms

Crowing
13 Years
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I'm back for more.

I had a 38% hatch rate little over a week ago. Several have not made it though & currently I have 14 chicks our of the original 58 set. Of the 58 18 (or so) were duds from the start.

Very large home made incubator - build from scraps & bits for the most part from around the garage - I did a build thread a while back.

In any case - I really had a hard time with lock down last time. I was unable to get the humidity above 50% & I'm pretty sure it killed most of my chicks in the egg - I tossed about 20 fully developed never pipped eggs. When I opend a few of them they seemed very dry inside.

So - for the improvements.

1) the bator is made from old cedar boards left over from a picket fence project. This wood is very dry & I think it sucked the water right out of them. The lid was the only portion exposed to the inside of the bator though so I sealed this wood with the same aluminum tape I used to seal the rest of the incubator. No exposed wood to suck the water out.

2) My water resevours did great for incubating but I couldn't increase the H in lock down as they were at capacity. So (this is cool) I changed out the 7x9 plastic containers for paint pans. These two paint pans have a sloped surface - so when I add more water to them they dont just get deeper - but they increase the surface area of the water exposed to the air! More surface area = more humidity.

My initial test are showing with 1 pan 1/2 full my humidity is holding at 40% to 43%. I'll let it cook for a few more days to be sure.

So come lock down - I can not only increase the surface area of the one pan - but I have an entire other pan I can expand into with two large sponges in.

3) the handles to my turner were simple pipes - I ran a bolt through them to make it easier to turn them with a heavy set of eggs. I really had a time if it with these in the mornings before - any lotion on my hands & forget it.

4) I replaced the drill bit I was using to hold the turner in the up position with a large nail. Wasn't necessary - but is stronger & feels more secure.

5) I extended the thermostat out away from the wall about 1/2 inch - I heard this helps with the sensitivity.

6) final thing - my PC fan died suddenly - not sure why - luckily my old pc had another. So I replaced that. This one pushes a lot more air - so I'm not sure I like that - but its either that or buy something.

Oh - one last thing I plan to do - I incubated & hatched in paper cartons with the bottom cut out. I think this contributed to the dry condition. I will be using clear plastic cartons this time - also with the bottom cut out.

Wish me luck - will be setting in about a week after I collect enough eggs.
 
hey I wish you luck ... can't wait to hear how the improvements work out.

I had a 0% hatch rate my first time, and I'm about to try again this week. so as long as we learn and keep trying we are doing good!
 
Good luck!
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Once again, we are on he same timeline. I made some serious mods to my incubator too.

I moved the fan to blow straight down the length of the chamber (incubator is longer than it is wide so there were hot and cold spots)
lined the heat chamber with aluminum tape to reflect radiant heat toward the t-stat
made a Al foil half-wall to completely block radiant heat from the eggies
moved the bulbs side by side (one 40w and one 25w)
and most important (i think) built a "bridge" out of hardware cloth above the light bulbs and bolted the t-stat to it so that the back is right above and about 2" from the heat source.
Just set 12 salmon faverolles, 12 GLW, and 7 black ausralorps on Sat.....so far 99.2-99.8

Good luck with yours!
 
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Congrats on getting it ready! I'd love to see some pics of that.

I had already lined the entier bator with foil backed foam - so it was pretty good - I have 2 60 watt bulbs side by side & the t-stat directly between them with the fan underneath blowing up at the t-stat - that way the stat doesn't kick off untill all the air is the same temp. I had good luck with this set up as far as having any cool spots - top & bottom were the same temp & side to side. At least until I took out the turner. Then I had cold breezes blowing through the holes the turner arms went through.

Im going to set my own barn yard mix this time - spent enough on eggs last time - dont want to do that agian until I'm 100% on my design.

In any case - my only rooster is a black silkie banty & he's been mixing it up with my buff orps & aracauna's. at least I hope he has.

None of my silkie hens have ever laid an egg. So no luck there.
 
cool, i'm also rebuilding my fridgebator... started with 60 and only ended up with 11 chicks... but i did have a lot of infertile eggs, but still... many many blood rings and 5 never hatched after lock down..
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so i'm redoing the entire thing as well... also putting metal cables instead of metal brackets for the turner... the turner gave out the third day of incubating 60 eggs...
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Nothing like experience to teach what works & what doesn't!

I had zero problems going through incubation - but just couldn't get the H up during lock down.

I think I have that whipped now. We'll see in about 3.5 weeks
 
Wow. Sounds like you've made a lot of good improvements. Have you tried filling up ALL the reservoirs to see how high your humidity can go? Would be good to know before you put more eggs in it. Also, what is your air flow like? In the last third of the incubation chicks need a lot of oxygen. Your eggs that were fully developed but not pipped could well have been too dry, but they might also have suffered a lack of oxygen. Just an idea...
 
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Good advice! - I have not filled all res. with water to see how high - I've easily had it over 50% with 1/2 of 1 res filled & I still have an entire second one. So I'm thinking I will be OK.

For the air flow - interesting idea. I have 4 - 1 inch vents plus the two side vents where the turner comes through. i was thinking about plugging (or partially) these because I noticed a cold draft last time. I wonder if there is a cheap way to measure o2
 

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