Baytril dosage for ducks with bumblefoot

[joesandy1822]

Georgie’s foot is starting to look much improved. What a rollercoaster ride. I will attach a photo from this morning, as well as the “before surgery” photo for comparison.

Today, I completed day 6 of liquid Baytril 10% (the proper dosage this time). I’ve read several places to stop after day 5 or 6 to minimize risking a yeast infection, but I want to be sure I’m doing the right thing. May I please get your feedback? I’d appreciate it. She still has a limp, but it’s improving day by day. No foul smell (but there never was). She’s eating and drinking fine, despite the horrific high temperatures.

edit: I should mention that if the scab looks soft, that’s because the photo was taken right after her morning swim. I recently have been allowing a swim in the morning, and also right before bed. The rest of the day, I block off the pond and keep the foot clean and dry. I am also backing off on using so much antibiotic ointment, salves, etc, as it seems the scab will never “harden”. I must go out of town for a few days the beginning of August, and the people who will be coming twice a day to care for the ducks are not going to do foot care, so I am desperately trying to get this foot healed to the point where she can spend those 4 days without a bandage or bootie. I’ve been stressing all summer over this. The timing stinks.

Thanks again for your feedback!

 

[Quatie]

Georgie’s foot is starting to look much improved. What a rollercoaster ride. I will attach a photo from this morning, as well as the “before surgery” photo for comparison.

Today, I completed day 6 of liquid Baytril 10% (the proper dosage this time). I’ve read several places to stop after day 5 or 6 to minimize risking a yeast infection, but I want to be sure I’m doing the right thing. May I please get your feedback? I’d appreciate it. She still has a limp, but it’s improving day by day. No foul smell (but there never was). She’s eating and drinking fine, despite the horrific high temperatures.

edit: I should mention that if the scab looks soft, that’s because the photo was taken right after her morning swim. I recently have been allowing a swim in the morning, and also right before bed. The rest of the day, I block off the pond and keep the foot clean and dry. I am also backing off on using so much antibiotic ointment, salves, etc, as it seems the scab will never “harden”. I must go out of town for a few days the beginning of August, and the people who will be coming twice a day to care for the ducks are not going to do foot care, so I am desperately trying to get this foot healed to the point where she can spend those 4 days without a bandage or bootie. I’ve been stressing all summer over this. The timing stinks.

Thanks again for your feedback!

It is looking a lot better. With Pekins it can take a long time to heal. With my Pekin, it took a 2 or 3 months to fully heal. If the wound is mostly healed, it won't be the end of the world if she skips a few days of treatment. Often I would skip a day of treatment just for my sanity. Sometimes you need a day for yourself to keep yourself going.

 

[joesandy1822]

It is looking a lot better. With Pekins it can take a long time to heal. With my Pekin, it took a 2 or 3 months to fully heal. If the wound is mostly healed, it won't be the end of the world if she skips a few days of treatment. Often I would skip a day of treatment just for my sanity. Sometimes you need a day for yourself to keep yourself going.

Thank you for the encouragement. I need to stop stressing, but all I can imagine is coming home and having to start all over because she opens it up again.

Today is not hot for a change. But she is really panting. That makes me wonder what’s going on. She’s done that off and on since we adopted her, but usually it’s very hot when I notice it.

I did a preliminary search here, and one of the reasons mentioned is if the duck is egg bound. Strangely, she has hollowed out a spot in our yard and has gone there twice this morning. I thought for sure I’d find an egg. So far, not. I have no experience with a duck being egg bound. If that is the case, what can I do to help her? How can I tell if she is egg bound? I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment, as you probably can tell. Lots to do, and I’m watching ducks.

 

[Quatie]

Thank you for the encouragement. I need to stop stressing, but all I can imagine is coming home and having to start all over because she opens it up again.

Today is not hot for a change. But she is really panting. That makes me wonder what’s going on. She’s done that off and on since we adopted her, but usually it’s very hot when I notice it.

I did a preliminary search here, and one of the reasons mentioned is if the duck is egg bound. Strangely, she has hollowed out a spot in our yard and has gone there twice this morning. I thought for sure I’d find an egg. So far, not. I have no experience with a duck being egg bound. If that is the case, what can I do to help her? How can I tell if she is egg bound? I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment, as you probably can tell. Lots to do, and I’m watching ducks.

It does sound like she is having difficulty laying an egg. It is not uncommon for Pekins to have soft shelled egg issues. To treat egg bound ducks, you can give her calcium gluconate. It is sold at TSC. It says injectable, but we administer it orally in a syringe. You give her 1 ml 2 times a day until she starts laying normally. Calcium citrate will also work, which can be found at a pharmacy and likely even the grocery store. You can give her a 500mg tablet twice a day, again till the issues resolves. Also tums will work in a pinch if you can get anything else.

Also, letting them soak in a bath for 30 minutes plus, preferably longer. I tend to do over an hour long bath. The bath helps make it easier to lay eggs. Ducks will sometimes go in the water themselves to help ease passing of a egg.

 

[joesandy1822]

It does sound like she is having difficulty laying an egg. It is not uncommon for Pekins to have soft shelled egg issues. To treat egg bound ducks, you can give her calcium gluconate. It is sold at TSC. It says injectable, but we administer it orally in a syringe. You give her 1 ml 2 times a day until she starts laying normally. Calcium citrate will also work, which can be found at a pharmacy and likely even the grocery store. You can give her a 500mg tablet twice a day, again till the issues resolves. Also tums will work in a pinch if you can get anything else.

Also, letting them soak in a bath for 30 minutes plus, preferably longer. I tend to do over an hour long bath. The bath helps make it easier to lay eggs. Ducks will sometimes go in the water themselves to help ease passing of a egg.

Is this the right thing? And is the dose the same regardless of weight?
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/durvet-calcium-gluconate-500-ml?cm_vc=-10005

 

[Quatie]

Is this the right thing? And is the dose the same regardless of weight?
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/durvet-calcium-gluconate-500-ml?cm_vc=-10005

Yes. You will want to store it in the fridge after you open it.

 

[joesandy1822]

Thank you. Does this work better than the calcium citrate? I’m only asking because TSC is a little bit of a drive for me. However, if that stuff works better, I will gladly make the trip. Thank you again.

 

[Quatie]

Thank you. Does this work better than the calcium citrate? I’m only asking because TSC is a little bit of a drive for me. However, if that stuff works better, I will gladly make the trip. Thank you again.

I can't say for certain. Usually it is recommend to have calcium gluconate for egg bound and calcium citrate is better for soft shelled eggs. But some ducks do better with one versus the other sometimes. The main thing is the calcium helps stimulate proper contraction of the muscles, helping pass the egg. Any calcium will help. Tums is probably the worst option, but will work if needed.

Here is how to give a pill.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/how-to-give-pills-to-ducks.1246505/

 

[joesandy1822]

I can't say for certain. Usually it is recommend to have calcium gluconate for egg bound and calcium citrate is better for soft shelled eggs. But some ducks do better with one versus the other sometimes. The main thing is the calcium helps stimulate proper contraction of the muscles, helping pass the egg. Any calcium will help. Tums is probably the worst option, but will work if needed.

Here is how to give a pill.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/how-to-give-pills-to-ducks.1246505/

I don’t know if you caught my post from yesterday about the egg that she laid yesterday being shiny? Do you think this could have any thing to do with it? I posted a photo of her normal looking egg as well as the shiny one.

When I was giving her the Baytril pills, I just tucked it inside a blueberry and she gobbled it right down. I suppose the calcium ones are bigger, but I could break them up. But I’ll just go to TSC and get that liquid anyway. I might as well cover all my bases.

 

[Quatie]

I don’t know if you caught my post from yesterday about the egg that she laid yesterday being shiny? Do you think this could have any thing to do with it? I posted a photo of her normal looking egg as well as the shiny one.

When I was giving her the Baytril pills, I just tucked it inside a blueberry and she gobbled it right down. I suppose the calcium ones are bigger, but I could break them up. But I’ll just go to TSC and get that liquid anyway. I might as will cover all my basis.

I took a look at the other thread. I have never seen a shiny egg. It is possible that egg white got the egg. It could potentially make the egg look shiny. Was the shell good quality or thin?