Bee box crafting questions

[nao57]

So I wanted to ask...

I'm a bit confused because I make my own stuff and don't usually buy. PLUS, I'm also somewhat new.

Do most people craft the hive stand and the screened bottom board and combine them into one solid piece? Or do they do them separate?

What do you think about this?

Also, I don't see the point of a medium box because it just means you have to buy tons more equipment. Why not just either convert all medium boxes into either deeps or supers instead of having 3 different sizes for everything? It seems like a huge hassle and means way more stuff doesn't fit well and using more time and energy than only having 2 sizes (deep and super). What do you think about this? Have many of you done this?

Also, I wanted to do a measurement check with you guys. I see some people quoting the outer edge of the deep box depth in carpentry for 9 9/16" and some quoting 9 5/8". And I don't want to screw up. These are the figures for the outer edge of the depth, not the inside lip right? Which is right? Or something else?

Thanks.

 

[MarkJr]

Stand and bottom board separate pieces. It’s helpful when you need to move hives to allow them the lowest center of gravity possible. It’s also handy to level out the stand without having to maneuver a full colony each time you attempt to level it.

I don’t have box dimensions handy.

Deeps, mediums and shallows....

Deeps are typically brood nest boxes. Anything above that is a super. You can choose what you want for box sizing for supers. It’s more efficient to use all deeps, but they are heavy. Most guys I know run deep brood boxes and mediums for honey supers.

I am swapping to all medium boxes, 8 frame instead of 10 frame width. This is including the brood boxes. There are a ton of reasons why, but the main one is I can take any single frame, and put it anywhere I want in my apiary. I suggest bushfarms.com/bees to whet your appetite.

Good luck in your beekeeping adventures.

PS Chickens and bees coexist beautifully. They don’t eat the live bees, but the larvae and dead bees are fair game.

 

[nao57]

Stand and bottom board separate pieces. It’s helpful when you need to move hives to allow them the lowest center of gravity possible. It’s also handy to level out the stand without having to maneuver a full colony each time you attempt to level it.

I don’t have box dimensions handy.

Deeps, mediums and shallows....

Deeps are typically brood nest boxes. Anything above that is a super. You can choose what you want for box sizing for supers. It’s more efficient to use all deeps, but they are heavy. Most guys I know run deep brood boxes and mediums for honey supers.

I am swapping to all medium boxes, 8 frame instead of 10 frame width. This is including the brood boxes. There are a ton of reasons why, but the main one is I can take any single frame, and put it anywhere I want in my apiary. I suggest bushfarms.com/bees to whet your appetite.

Good luck in your beekeeping adventures.

PS Chickens and bees coexist beautifully. They don’t eat the live bees, but the larvae and dead bees are fair game.

Wow thanks.

Using all mediums instead of the others does seem like it could work.

I'm glad you told me about this.

I had heard of people putting hives higher up because of skunks, etc.

But I hadn't heard of them putting them as low to the ground as possible? Why is that? Wind maybe?

 

[MarkJr]

You mistake me. Moving a full hive can be 150 lbs easy. When you move them, and set them down temporarily (pickup bed, ground next to new home, etc) having them as light as possible and low as possible is what you’re looking for. I like my stands 12-14” tall. This lets me weedeat without making them mad enough to come after me.

If you’re in skunk country, think about top entrances. The ‘make them raise up and expose their bellies’ is good in theory....... but skunks just keep on gorging as fast as they come out.

 

[nao57]

You mistake me. Moving a full hive can be 150 lbs easy. When you move them, and set them down temporarily (pickup bed, ground next to new home, etc) having them as light as possible and low as possible is what you’re looking for. I like my stands 12-14” tall. This lets me weedeat without making them mad enough to come after me.

If you’re in skunk country, think about top entrances. The ‘make them raise up and expose their bellies’ is good in theory....... but skunks just keep on gorging as fast as they come out.

Thanks!