Black hens with white dribble butt

[thecatumbrella]

I'm trying to solve a feather picking problem, and these white on black butts are NOT helping. It's 20F out, and I've trimmed them down to probably ½". Their vents are a healthy color and clean as a whistle.

One just started laying 2 weeks ago, and the other is starting to squat and get pissy. Could it be laying stress (I do remember my sex-link getting poopy butt around the time she started laying)? Do I need to buzz cut a poop strip down their behinds (half joking)? Will they freeze if I do? Maybe they have bad squatty posture?

Any suggestions or tips are much appreciated. I'm at a crossroads where I either need to long-term separate the butt plucking chicken or rehome her. In which case I'd be down to 2 birds... the dribble butts . Who shockingly do not pick at each other!

 

[sourland]

Have you considered using Pin Less Peepers on the butt plucker?

 

[thecatumbrella]

Have you considered using Pin Less Peepers on the butt plucker?

No. The butt plucker is also getting bullied by the Australorp getting ready to lay (at least at the feeder), which kind of kicked off this whole issue. I know some people have success with the peepers, but I personally can't bring myself to put them on her.

 

[Eggcessive]

How much room do they have in the coop and run? Are they getting outside to roam? Are you using a balanced layer or all flock feed for the majority of their diet? Vent pecking can lead to vent damage and cannibalism if not stopped.Vent damage may lead to continuous foul-smelling drippage of urates from the vent. If you are feeding some people food or scraps, or if they are having a crop issue, they may be drinking more water and having runny poops. Look at the stress level, and maybe try some probiotics or a small spoonful decent plain yogurt for each one. Worming would also be something to think about, and Valbazen or SafeGuard Liquid Goat Wormer are both good.

 

[thecatumbrella]

How much room do they have in the coop and run? Are they getting outside to roam? Are you using a balanced layer or all flock feed for the majority of their diet? Vent pecking can lead to vent damage and cannibalism if not stopped.Vent damage may lead to continuous foul-smelling drippage of urates from the vent. If you are feeding some people food or scraps, or if they are having a crop issue, they may be drinking more water and having runny poops. Look at the stress level, and maybe try some probiotics or a small spoonful decent plain yogurt for each one. Worming would also be something to think about, and Valbazen or SafeGuard Liquid Goat Wormer are both good.

9x12 run. No free-range. They were eating layer feed, but I switched to Purina Flock Raiser. They just came off a week of no treats, but I'm now giving a small serving of black soldier fly larvae before bed for the protein boost.

I'd say stress level is high just due to the onset of egg laying. They do drink quite a bit (maybe because they're starting to lay eggs?). I do have some chicken probiotics. Would worms show any other signs? Because other than the dribble bums, they look and act great.

 

[Eggcessive]

If they have access to dirt, they can have worms. Worming with a gentle safe wormer (Valbazen or SafeGuard) is pretty standard once or twice a year. Some do it while some don’t. Not getting out to roam in the yard, where they can get away from each other, and find interesting things to investigate, can cause boredom and stress. Even an hour a day supervised is better than none. But we do what we can do in our neighborhoods or to avoid predators.

 

[thecatumbrella]

If they have access to dirt, they can have worms. Worming with a gentle safe wormer (Valbazen or SafeGuard) is pretty standard once or twice a year. Some do it while some don’t. Not getting out to roam in the yard, where they can get away from each other, and find interesting things to investigate, can cause boredom and stress. Even an hour a day supervised is better than none. But we do what we can do in our neighborhoods or to avoid predators.

Understood! I'll look more into scheduled dewormer. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to rotate products? Like with dandruff shampoos!

I agree, they need some foraging space. We ran out of time this year, but I'll add some fencing in the spring around the chicken garden. I have one of the worst lots for chickens. We live in the woods with ridiculous predator presence, and both my neighbors have massive untrained off-leash dogs. The neighbor two houses down free-ranges, but he maintains a larger flock to offset the constant losses. Sometimes I think suburban chicken keepers have it made, especially if you can fence your backyard!

 

[thecatumbrella]

@Eggcessive What dosage do you use for Safe-guard?

 

[Eggcessive]

For roundworms only, 1/4 ml per pound given orally once and later in 10 days is correct. If treating most all worms that chickens get except for tapeworms, give 1/4 ml per pound for 5 consecutive days.

 

[thecatumbrella]

For roundworms only, 1/4 ml per pound given orally once and later in 10 days is correct. If treating most all worms that chickens get except for tapeworms, give 1/4 ml per pound for 5 consecutive days.

Thank you so much! Would it be okay to mix it in some water? They're on horizontal nipples for the winter, so would probably down whatever open source I put out.