- Thread starter
- #3,131
Robert Blosl
Rest in Peace 1947-2013
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=5519994#p5519994
I posted the picture of the gray call drake. I think I used the wrong term frosting which is for the front bib area. This male has white in the section befor the tail. Instead of solid steal drake color it has a half inch or so section of white. This male was the best colored duck as a baby with the female color pattern. Art Lundgren told me to make sure I maked or wing banded the drakes as when they go into thier adult molt at one year or more the clean penciling will be mudded and I will not be able to see which drakes have the super nice pullet color. I have noticed this with my old drakes as when they go through thier molt I could never tell who had the best pencilling.
Thanks for all the advice on this I am going to put more breeding pressure on type and the neck section and width of body then when I get what I want will hammer down on the color issue. I dont think this is going to be a cut washed and dried project. It may be alot like the blue color pattern where you may hit it and may not and what you see is not what you get type of breeding. Just have not interviewed many people who have breed this color pattern. You would think that some of the old timers may have talked to the past super stars and they passed down the secrets to them. Well off to work to buy chicken feed.
For you who live in the deep south I use Flint River Mills feed out of Georgia. I use game bird pellets and game bird starter for my birds. Puts a great finish on the birds and has much more animal protein than some feeds. I have used alot of feed a few years ago when a switch was on to plant protein like soy beans. My hatch rate went down. Some feel Soy Beans worked like a birth control on the females. After going back to FRM I got my normal hatch rate back. bob
I posted the picture of the gray call drake. I think I used the wrong term frosting which is for the front bib area. This male has white in the section befor the tail. Instead of solid steal drake color it has a half inch or so section of white. This male was the best colored duck as a baby with the female color pattern. Art Lundgren told me to make sure I maked or wing banded the drakes as when they go into thier adult molt at one year or more the clean penciling will be mudded and I will not be able to see which drakes have the super nice pullet color. I have noticed this with my old drakes as when they go through thier molt I could never tell who had the best pencilling.
Thanks for all the advice on this I am going to put more breeding pressure on type and the neck section and width of body then when I get what I want will hammer down on the color issue. I dont think this is going to be a cut washed and dried project. It may be alot like the blue color pattern where you may hit it and may not and what you see is not what you get type of breeding. Just have not interviewed many people who have breed this color pattern. You would think that some of the old timers may have talked to the past super stars and they passed down the secrets to them. Well off to work to buy chicken feed.
For you who live in the deep south I use Flint River Mills feed out of Georgia. I use game bird pellets and game bird starter for my birds. Puts a great finish on the birds and has much more animal protein than some feeds. I have used alot of feed a few years ago when a switch was on to plant protein like soy beans. My hatch rate went down. Some feel Soy Beans worked like a birth control on the females. After going back to FRM I got my normal hatch rate back. bob