Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

[fowlman01]

I don't know if this picture is real. If it is, what breed is this rooster?

It is real. I have some at least that big. It is probably a Shamo. I had one that was well over 30" tall.

Walt

 

[Bentley]

When I increase light, I follow the commercial laying industry's protocol. I increase it 15 minutes a day, until I achieve the desire total light hours. Studies seems to indicate that it is the increasing light that is most effective, rather than just snapping on an extra 4 hours all at once. FWIW.

It's a bit of a pain doing it gradually, but it certainly pays dividends, I guess.

I can get you the link to that, if you wish.

Fred,

This is certainly one of the ways that increasing light duration is done in the industry but it really is not the ONLY way to do this. Most of the time they jump form 8 hours straight to 12 hours then when the birds are close to ready they will add 15 minutes per week, or 15 minutes extra every 5 days, or 30 minutes a week, or 30 minutes added for every 5% increase in production, and so on and so on. Get my point? There are many ways to accomplish the same thing. I have yet to see data, on a large scale, that says that one way is really much better than any other way. It certainly does not hurt and I feel that it gives the birds more of a natural feel to increasing day lengths as well, but I am not sure how much each method effects egg production over all as I have seen it done successfully many different ways.

For a large scale laying house, I would do similar to this but not on a daily basis. I will target 16 hours light per day (only 14 is necessary but what the heck) as my peak and will begin adding 30 minutes of light per week to the birds far enough ahead of time that I reach 16 hours by the expected age I really want my birds laying well. I will add 15 minutes in the morning and 15 minutes at night each time I change. This doesn't seem to make a difference overall but its just the way I do it. Sometimes if a management tool makes us feel better and sleep more soundly then it is worth it even if the chickens really don't care, haha.

For my birds that are raised not 'for production' but I certainly want eggs I just jump them up to 16 hours fairly quickly. That's the KISS method everyone wants. Your way is great and I am sure works well and would for others also but there are options when adding light stimulation to birds.

 

[Fred's Hens]

Fred,

This is certainly one of the ways that increasing light duration is done in the industry but it really is not the ONLY way to do this. Most of the time they jump form 8 hours straight to 12 hours then when the birds are close to ready they will add 15 minutes per week, or 15 minutes extra every 5 days, or 30 minutes a week, or 30 minutes added for every 5% increase in production, and so on and so on. Get my point? There are many ways to accomplish the same thing. I have yet to see data, on a large scale, that says that one way is really much better than any other way. It certainly does not hurt and I feel that it gives the birds more of a natural feel to increasing day lengths as well, but I am not sure how much each method effects egg production over all as I have seen it done successfully many different ways.

For a large scale laying house, I would do similar to this but not on a daily basis. I will target 16 hours light per day (only 14 is necessary but what the heck) as my peak and will begin adding 30 minutes of light per week to the birds far enough ahead of time that I reach 16 hours by the expected age I really want my birds laying well. I will add 15 minutes in the morning and 15 minutes at night each time I change. This doesn't seem to make a difference overall but its just the way I do it. Sometimes if a management tool makes us feel better and sleep more soundly then it is worth it even if the chickens really don't care, haha.

For my birds that are raised not 'for production' but I certainly want eggs I just jump them up to 16 hours fairly quickly. That's the KISS method everyone wants. Your way is great and I am sure works well and would for others also but there are options when adding light stimulation to birds.

Years ago, I used to just snap on an extra 3 hours in the morning and done. It works.
Then, I started the graduated, step by step, process, after reading about it and thinking to myself, Why not? Yes, it seemed more natural to me as well.
Honestly? I just found there was more harmony in the universe by using the gradual approach. The flock positive behaviors (numerous) seemed more in tune, but surely, both ways work.

The dreaded thing is the sudden, and unnoticed bulb burnout or such when gone for a day or two. Yikes. They get back on track, but it is indeed an artificial stimulant when turning it on and an unwelcome thing if it should go out for some reason. Thus, I now use two lamps, hopefully preventing a total black out. Shrug.

 

[3riverschick]

Thank you Karen. I have tried sprouted the oats from my current source and the result has been NO spouts. Just wet oats. Good to know TSC might be a source that will sprout. I'll try again!

That's probably because they were feed oats , not forage oats. Feed oats (like you feed an animal ) often have an anti-fungus additive. That additive makes them mold instead of sprout. Forrage oats are like what the famer plants in his field or hunters plant in plots for deer. They don't have that additive and will sprout real good.
Best,
Karen

 

[3riverschick]

Sorry that I didn't answer that earlier, but after reading it, I knew it was not going to be a quick post. I think you answered your own question after further research. It is quite possible that eWh was substituted for eb. They were doing all this visually then and did not have the genetic understanding then that is available now. Generally as the undercolor gets darker the bird will start to have ticking show up...usually in the tail.....starting on the underside of the tail feathers. Good light Brahma's should have light bluish slate undercolor and the Sussex white undercolor, so your suspicions may be correct.. I have seen more than a few light Brahma's with white undercolor.

Bently could probably add to the comments......

Walt

Walt, do you think this mixture of improper colors we are seeing in both breeds is do soley to a shift to an improper allelle?
Or could it have to do with improper color balancing too? I know depth of color in male's hackle will effect depth of color in the female. But we are also seeing a difference in undercolor. Can that difference in undercolor also be due to improper color balancing? Or are we seeing both an allele problem and color balancing problems?
This is important because it effects which classic knowledge I can use in how I set up my matings.
Thanks for sharing!
Karen

 

[Chris09]

That's probably because they were feed oats , not forage oats. Feed oats (like you feed an animal often have an anti-fungus additive. That additive makes them mold instead of sprout. Forrage oats are like what the famer plants in his field or hunters plant in plots for deer. They don't have that additive and will sprout real good.
Best,
Karen

Feed Oats shouldn't have any fungicide on them, there the Oats as there harvested. Where did you here this.
Most Seed Oats have a fungicide on them to keep them from rotting in cool/damp soil, also a fungicide ("anti-fungus") will not prevent a seed from sprouting..
A lot of vegetable seeds are treated with a mild fungicide called Captan to help with germination in cool damp soils..

Chris

 

[catdaddyfro]

Feed Oats shouldn't have any fungicide on them, there the Oats as there harvested. Where did you here this.
Most Seed Oats have a fungicide on them to keep them from rotting in cool/damp soil, also a fungicide ("anti-fungus") will not prevent a seed from sprouting..
A lot of vegetable seeds are treated with a mild fungicide called Captan to help with germination in cool damp soils..

Chris

Yes I planted a couple of 50 lbs sacks of re-cleaned race horse oats this fall in my green plots for my animals to feed on this winter. anti(against)- fungal(mold)? correct?

Jeff

 

[buffalogal]

That's probably because they were feed oats , not forage oats. Feed oats (like you feed an animal ) often have an anti-fungus additive. That additive makes them mold instead of sprout. Forrage oats are like what the famer plants in his field or hunters plant in plots for deer. They don't have that additive and will sprout real good.

I think it's more to do with the hull slowing down the sprouting process. I can't imagine livestock feed sprayed with a fungicide.
I know that whole oats spilled on the ground in an out of the way corner where the birds can't get them have no trouble at all sprouting and growing.

 

[maryhysong]

OK.....CSU is starting. https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...te-university-large-fowl-sop/10#post_10198120

Walt

Yipppeee!

 

[NanaKat]

Incubator question...is the Hovabator Genesis made of styrofoam or plastic?