Botulism?? Has anyone dealt with this? Trying to determine if that is whats wrong!

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by Pillzzner, Feb 26, 2013.

  1. Pillzzner

    Pillzzner Out Of The Brooder

    38
    0
    32
    Aug 3, 2012
    Georgia
    I had several chickens die suddenly about 6 months ago. All with the same symptoms. Lethargic, not walking or stumbling, death. All of my others have been fine, til lately. I have a 1 yr old hen that started acting lethargic. I separated her immediately not knowing again what was wrong. She became so week she couldn't hold her head up. I gave some vitamins and got some tylan 50 injections for her and the flock just in case. I would have bet anything she would have died that night but somehow she pulled threw. She is still sickly...I've been trying to give cheese, corn, yogurt...anything she will eat. Well today I noticed very bright green poop. I googled it and the first thing that popped up was botulism. I read some them remembered where the coop is built is an old vegi garden spot. It has rained here what seems like forever and puddles of standing water are everywhere. Has any one dealt with botulism? and is there anything I can do for her and the others until I am able to move the coop if it is bot.??
     
  2. casportpony

    casportpony Team Tube Feeding Captain & Poop Inspector General Premium Member

    56,790
    11,637
    751
    Jun 24, 2012
    My Coop
    Green poop is often just a sign that they haven't been eating.

    Maybe this will help you, it's a cut and paste from another post of mine

    When mine get sick, this is what I do:

    • Thorough exam which includes inserting a gloved, lubed finger into the cloaca, check for cuts, bruising lumps etc.
    • Dust for mites/lice with poultry dust even if I cannot see any. DE does not work.
    • Weigh on digital kitchen scale (see avatar), record weight and weigh daily. any weight loss is bad.
    • Place bird in a warm, quiet place on towel with food and water that it can't drown in.
    • De-worm with Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste 50mg/kg by mouth and repeat in 10 days.
    • Once warm, if not drinking, and crop is empty, hydrate with warmed Pedialyte or lactated ringers with a feeding tube - 30ml/kg every 6-8 hours.
    • If not eating after 24 hours and crop is empty, tube feed baby bird food mixed with Pedialyte
    • Inspect poop.
    • If I suspect a stuck egg, treat for egg binding.
    • If I suspect a bacterial infection, treat with antibiotics.

    From: http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/avmed/cam/07_emergency_and_critical_care.pdf
    Supportive Care
    SICK-BIRD ENCLOSURES
    Sick birds are often hypothermic and should be placed
    in heated (brooder-type) enclosures



    b (Fig 7.7) in a quiet
    environment (see Chapter 1, Clinical Practice). A temperature
    of 85° F (29° C) with 70% humidity is desirable
    for most sick birds. If brooders are not equipped with a
    humidity source, placing a small dish of water in the
    enclosure will often supply adequate humidity. A moist
    towel that is heated and placed on the bottom of a cage
    or incubator rapidly humidifies the environment, as indicated
    by the fogging of the acrylic cage front.

    FLUID THERAPY
    Oral Administration
    Oral administration is the ideal method of giving fluids.
    This method is more commonly used in mildly dehydrated
    birds or in conjunction with subcutaneous (SC)
    or intravenous (IV) therapy. Oral rehydration (30 ml/kg
    PO q 6-8 h) also may be used in larger birds (eg, waterfowl)
    that are difficult to restrain for parenteral fluid
    therapy.
     

BackYard Chickens is proudly sponsored by