What do you think is better to feed roosters? I've heard a few other people comment to this effect, but then their choice of rooster feed has varied widely, with some people only feeding scratch and others feeding a higher protein feed. I'm always intrigued to hear another's perspective on the matter as roosters get so little attentive care compared to hens.
I tend to keep ideal breeding roosters till about 5 or so years of age.
Except during molt, an adult rooster does quite well with about 13-14% protein and 1-2% calcium.
Feeds that are in that range are uncommon and thereby more expensive. However, protein is an expensive ingredient.
The higher protein over what they need for body maintenance must be processed by the liver and kidneys and expelled in the feces.
Calcium over 2.5% for a bird not producing egg shells, (roosters, growing birds, molters) is excessive.
Excess protein can result in articular gout. Excess calcium can result in visceral gout. Other problems can also come from those excesses.
Research shows that sperm motility can be enhanced with about 2% calcium over what is in non-layer feeds. However, research also shows that roosters fed layer feed (><4%calcium) die at 4 times the rate of females and that is due to kidney damage.
Sometimes I'll feed roosters a 15% finisher feed or a 12.5% game bird maintenance feed. Since my roosters are breeders or potential breeders, I still want their vitamin/mineral intake to be enhanced so that's why I stay away from too much scratch and will usually add some Nutri-Drench to the water weekly.
I also add kelp to their fermented feed.
ETA
referencing calcium, keep in mind that all the feeds and their nutrient ratios available to us at feed stores are formulas based on the research that commercial egg or broiler farms utilize. For most non-laying birds, about 1% calcium is sufficient. For birds in full production, about 4% calcium is adequate. However, most small holders and backyard chicken keepers don't raise birds the way commercial operations do.
For egg farms, they have tens of thousands of pullets in each replacement flock. They all hatched the same day and after a few weeks are kept on 8 hours of light in blackout housing. Then, at about 15 weeks, daylength is gradually increased so they all come into lay within about a week of each other. Backyard keepers don't do that. Commercial layers in full production can utilize that 4% calcium. If it isn't sufficient and they get rickets or cage layer fatigue or if it is excessive and they die from kidney failure, they don't really care because they have millions of birds.
The 1% to 4% are general numbers. The fact is, for most people, their birds may lay at a rate of 6-7 eggs a week or 1-2 eggs a week. The former may need more than 4% while the latter needs much less.
When the egg enters the shell gland, calcium is pulled from the medullary bone to build the shell but hens are able to rapidly utilize any calcium in the small intestine. For that reason, crushed oyster shell is very helpful because of its large particle size, it stays in the upper digestive tract longer and is in contact with the calcium absorption sites in the small intestine during the night when the egg is in the shell gland.
Calcium in feed is finely ground and passes through at the same rate as all other nutrients.
@ChickenCanoe I know
. These girls have also laid before but when I moved them they quit again!
I'm sorry, I thought they were pullets. So if they're older and this is another round of laying, this is the perfect time to collect eggs for hatching.
X2? I am confused as to how I am gonna get my roos to eat one thing and hens the other? And my birds eat very little layer anyways except for my breeder birds who are locked up and have no choice.
There are 2 methods of feeding a mixed flock.
The easiest is to provide an all flock or lower protein grower feed. (18% max) and then provide oyster shell in a separate container for those laying eggs.
Another method that some large breeder operations use is to have 2 types of feeders. One for the hens that are difficult for the roosters to get their heads in and another elevated so the hens can't reach the rim.
Another possibility is to keep a bachelor pad and just introduce roosters to a breeding flock occasionally and only for about a week at a time. The hens will be fertile for about 3 weeks after the conjugal visits.
Since most of my birds free range or are places vulnerable to predators, I keep at least one rooster with each flock for predator protection.
. These girls have also laid before but when I moved them they quit again!
