Building a 6x16ft Lean to Chicken Run

ninamarie8253

In the Brooder
Sep 1, 2022
16
24
26
North New Jersey
Hey guys, I've built things before like furniture, but never something this large. We want to construct a 6ft x 16ft fenced in lean-to chicken run with a roof for 4-6 chickens. I've got 17x 8ft pressure treated 2x4's leftover from a project of mine, I'd really love to use them for the roof of our coop - but does that mean it won't be strong enough to withstand the New Jersey snow come winter time? We're just trying to keep costs down, while also building something that will last a decade.

We're going to position this along our white picket back fence (and behind that are woods), so that will help block some of the wind.
Here's what I've got so far. Using 4x4's as the outer frame, 2x4's as the 'studs', 7/16" plywood for the roof and backwall (is that ok?), and questioning the amount of/size of the trusses (either my 2x4 leftovers or 2x6's). Lean to pitch would be 3:12. Then corregated metal ontop of the plywood on the roof.

See attached. Let me know what I need to add or if I can can take anything away if its over kill? Thank you!!
 

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If you use the PT lumber and metal roof, it should last well over a decade.

I don't know enough about framing for snow loads, but my gut says you'll need a beam or some decent support across the top plate with your wall framing so widely spaced. I'd consider going for 2x6 rafters instead of 2x4s, due to the potential snow load, it's not that much of a price difference in the long run IMO and you're already saving $ from your leftover materials being used - again, I'd reference snow load framing since your roof isn't really that large, perhaps you can get away with using the 2x4s.

Personally would likely skip the plywood underneath the corrugated metal roof, as it will add more weight and expense - instead, just add a few extra purlins on top of your rafters for support. Dunno if I'd add a back wall with the fence right there in close proximity, but it would definitely add a lot of stability to the structure if you include it.
 
The pitch is going to send snow over and behind the fence, correct? Being from Alaska, my experience was this will be strong enough with 2.4's or 2.6, up to you. My opinion is the plan looks great. Welcome to BYC! Good luck! Post pics of progress....
 
Thank you so so much you guys!!!! Glad for the quick responses.
Okay so perlins (aka 1x3s right?) instead of plywood at the top (what spacing do they need to be?). Stick with 2x6's for the roof, and yes we want the snow to go behind the fence. I just wasnt sure if we should protect the back fencing from getting gross with chicken poop - which is why I put the plywood wall in the back. Thank you guys!!

BTW if I have a 3.5x4.5 coop large enough for up to 5 regular sized chickens, and we want to have a few regular and a few silkies, can I get away with a 6ftx12ft run instead of a 16ft long run? Or bad idea - give them the extra space? My husband is worried we're taking over the yard too much lol. Thank you!

Also, anything cheaper I can do for the roof besides metal? And what screws do I use for drilling into the metal? Thank you!
 
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IMO bigger is always better if you can manage. I believe minimum square footage is something like 4 sq/ft inside coops, and 10 sq/ft in runs. Keep in mind this is a minimum and when you see it in person, it's quite like chicken jail IMO and definitely a minimum. Chickens can be savage a-holes to one another, so more space to get away from each other is always better.

At my local hardware store, metal roof panels are only like $2 more than the opaque plastic ones. I know the metal will last longer in my region, but I dunno about your region with snow as a factor. Typical screws to use are the hex-head roofing screws with the rubber washers.

Is this coop going to be attached to the fence, or spaced away?
 
I just wasnt sure if we should protect the back fencing from getting gross with chicken poop
You should keep the coop at least 3 feet away from the fence for maintenance on coop and fence.....and you won't have to worry about chicken poop on the fence.
Any restrictions on set backs in your area(I'm assuming that fence is very close to your property line)?
 
Also, anything cheaper I can do for the roof besides metal? And what screws do I use for drilling into the metal? Thank you!

Depending on local price variations, metal on purlins is often very close to the price of shingles on plywood -- given that plywood is so high right now.

With self-tapping screws designed for metal (get them from the supplier of the roofing), and a battery powered impact driver (ours is a DeWalt 20V) to set them, metal roofing is amazingly simple to install this way.

The one possible issue *could* be condensation depending on your climate. Excellent ventilation under the roof slope can help a lot for that.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

Question,

Why 6x16? Designing in multiples of 4-feet is usually more efficient use of materials. :)
 
I agree! But right now I made a raised bed, and I gave us about 10ft out from the fence line from where one of the beds are placed, so if we did a 6ft wide coop, that allows us 4ft walking infront. If I moved the run 3ft from the fence, well it would give us practically no room infront of it to walk. So I'll prob need to put that plywood at the back of the wall of the run a few feet from the ground to account for poop catching!

KK So self-tapping screws (hex hed) using my impact driver. Got it. Hopefully metal is OK for under trees in NJ. The towns rules are 50ft from any property line, which I should be because I'm using the corner of our house that shares township swamp lands, and then maybe a few hundred feet over there are houses again :)

Also Q - if for some reason we run into a problem with the back of the lean to roof not being able to go over the fence, that would be bad to have the snow pileup at the foot of the base of the fence right infront of it right?

Do I NEED a 4x4 outer frame? Or can I get away with using 2x4s anywhere that I have 4x4s? Just trying to see what I can do to save money :)


Is OSB 7/16 in. Sheathing Panel Plywood ok to use on the roof and back wall? Depending on how far the spacing needs to be for purlins, its almost the same price. How far apart do perlins need to be spaced? And the 2x6s for trusses - is 20" ok?

Can I build the frame right ontop of flattened out gravel? Do I need any sort of a concrete footer? Hoping not...

Thank you guys! We are going to buy the wood I think tomorrow and start next week!
 
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Hopefully metal is OK for under trees in NJ.

Probably. You'd have to check with the manufacturer of the metal roofing to be certain. Their website probably has a "contact us" button.

Do I NEED a 4x4 outer frame? Or can I get away with using 2x4s anywhere that I have 4x4s?

I can't say. I'm not an engineer and don't know anything about designing for snow load.

Over-engineering is a family tradition for both sides of the family so I wouldn't, but that doesn't mean it can't be done safely.

Can you consult local builders?

Is OSB 7/16 in. Sheathing Panel Plywood ok to use on the roof and back wall? Depending on how far the spacing needs to be for purlins, its almost the same price. How far apart do perlins need to be spaced? And the 2x6s for trusses - is 20" ok?

@U_Stormcrow knows more about this than I do when it comes to roof specs.

Can I build the frame right ontop of flattened out gravel? Do I need any sort of a concrete footer?

Is your area subject to frost heaving?

Will you be planting your posts in the ground or just sitting a frame on top?

Do local building codes address this in re: sheds, etc?
 
if for some reason we run into a problem with the back of the lean to roof not being able to go over the fence, that would be bad to have the snow pileup at the foot of the base of the fence right infront of it right?
Who owns that fence?
Who owns the land on the other side of the fence?
Also be aware that rain water coming off the roof could cause issues.
 

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