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Building Coop Advice Needed

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by kristif815, Mar 24, 2016.

  1. kristif815

    kristif815 New Egg

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    Jun 10, 2013
    Some of you have seen this, but I have another question. Any carpenters out there?
    I'm going to turn one section of this into an enclosed coop 11'x15'. I'm adding cattle panels in a half hoop on the front, extending to the next section.
    My question is if I'm framing out 2 walls, do I make a concrete foundation with bolts, so I can attach the framing? Maybe using concrete blocks and pouring into holes to secure bolts? Or do I just bury a pressure treated 4x4 or something?
    Trying to figure out a plan, we move in 3 weeks.
    TIA for any ideas.[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016
  2. ksguy

    ksguy Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Are you talking about framing in walls that connect those front support posts to the back wall? Will these walls only be containing poultry? And, what will the wall covering be - chicken wire, hardware cloth, welded wire fence, etc?

    Operating on the assumption that the answer to the first two questions is "yes", what I would do is not worry about concrete at all. If the rest of the building is anchored to the ground already, this is just a partition wall that will only support its own weight. What I would do is dig a narrow, shallow trench and fill it with gravel a couple inches deep, to help with drainage. Compact the gravel a bit if you can - tamping a cinder block on it is probably all you need to do. Lay pressure treated 4x4 posts down on top of the gravel for a bottom plate. Make sure the posts are rated for ground contact. Do not try to use pressure treated 2x4s for the bottom as they use a different treatment process that is not ground contact rated - they'll rot right out in quick order.

    Drive 12" galvanized spikes through each post down into the ground - one at each end, and one in the middle - then frame your wall on top of it. Spikes are typically 3/8" so pre-drill for them if you can, to make the job easier. With those in there, it's not going anywhere. Alternatively, you could buy some 3/8" rebar and cut it into lenths of 12-18" and use those instead of spikes (if you have a metal cutting tool).

    Finally, any time you're using pressure treated lumber, make sure you use galvanized nails - regular nails will corrode. Alternatively, you can use deck screws as they're designed to work with the PT wood.
     

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