Building new coop - Exterior plywood?

[Barred Rocker]

There's a kind of plywood called T-111 that holds paint very well. Some are grooved to look like wood boards. I used it to reside a shed I converted into a studio for my wife. The sell it Home Depot and Lowes.

 

[SillyChicken]

Quote:
Hi Newbie here too, so maybe ok for me to respond! If it's solid wood board (usually toung and groved) paneling yes you could. If it's a press board or laminated, I wouldn't recommend it at all. Pressboard will swell and then flake apart and laminated will come apart as well, even if you paint it, it won't last long.

T1-11, hardi board siding or paneling all work well. There is also a cheap t1-11 take off, made of osb that's sealed and preprimed and used in todays sheds.

 

[bel]

Backtobasics, If its real old there could be lead paint in there, if its flaking its going to expose the chickens as they scratch the soil where it falls. They sell home lead test sticks at the hardware store so if your not sure you can check. If its not got lead its probably fine,would be a waste not to use it because the quality of older woods cant be beat.

 

[backtobasics]

Thanks guys. It's old-school 70's (interior) wood paneling- real wood, no veneer, no paint- kind of like a really thin plywood. Would there be any source of lead if it's not painted? Some of it's pretty thin, but I have enough that I could easily double it up on the walls. I've even had a few pieces sitting outside in the rain (was trying to create a wind block for my garden), and it didn't warp or anything- still looks good. So I'm thinking it just might work great, and saves me having to figure a way to get rid of it.

It's kind of like this: http://brooklynmodern.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/pict88411.jpg (I was just googling for pictures and found this, but it's pretty similar.)

 

[gsim]

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Will be fine for that and even for exterior if primed and then two top-coats house paint. Wall studs should be 16" OC since interior paneling is thinner/weaker than sheathing. Pay attention to providing enough roof overhang to protect the seams/edges somewhat. There are vinyl paneling corner moldings to cover edges so that water does not get in. Do not install those until all wall panels primed and painted . Put caulk down both sides first and spread a little with putty knife. Then nail on the corner trim over the caulk and use putty knife to scrape excess off. That will keep water out of joints. At 4 ft intervals, put battens over seams using the same technique. You should have no trouble. I would have done that if I had had paneling available at the time I built my coop.

 

[Cindy in PA]

We always use T-111 board and stain the outside. My original coop is 17 years old & had to be restained only once (but it needs it again this spring). Much less upkeep than paint. It comes in several different thicknesses just like regular plywood.

 

[Chieftain]

I am using 1/2" CDX for exterior sheathing, priming it with Kilz latex sealer, and then will paint it with the same exterior paint that I use on my house.

I know the siding you were looking at, and it is overkill. It's also about $40+ a sheet, whereas the 1/2" CDX is about $11 a sheet.

 

[wing it]

The green plywood is ACQ I do not use it in the garden or around my chickens. CDX plywood is what is used to sheath houses and if painted will last for some time. OSB is oriented strand board will not last as long as CDX painted or not. T111 is plywood that is ment to be the final siding it to should be painted or stained for best life span. More on ACQ here www.laboratoirespolive.com/build/DocumentViewer.aspx?repository... http://www.ptw-safetyinfo.ca/acq.htm

 

[backtobasics]

Quote:
Will be fine for that and even for exterior if primed and then two top-coats house paint. Wall studs should be 16" OC since interior paneling is thinner/weaker than sheathing. Pay attention to providing enough roof overhang to protect the seams/edges somewhat. There are vinyl paneling corner moldings to cover edges so that water does not get in. Do not install those until all wall panels primed and painted . Put caulk down both sides first and spread a little with putty knife. Then nail on the corner trim over the caulk and use putty knife to scrape excess off. That will keep water out of joints. At 4 ft intervals, put battens over seams using the same technique. You should have no trouble. I would have done that if I had had paneling available at the time I built my coop.

Fantastic info- exactly what I needed. Thanks!!

 

[the Pollo Loco]

Quote:
this is exactly what I was thinking, unless you have unlimited funds? hey you could even use cement fiber siding!!! it's all relevant to your pocketbook!!! but remember to prime and paint!!