Building new coop, need help!

Bcoz18

Songster
Apr 20, 2020
105
74
118
Saint Charles Missouri
We are building a new coop for roughly 20 chickens. Our old one had a covered run with but we are taking the covered run off and like I said building a coop only with nesting boxes attached.
I'm gonna say it's 6ft tall, 10 feet wide and from front to back its maybe 4 feet.. (Just guesses) its all wood. How many vents for Ventilation? One on each of the 4 side? One in the front and one in the back? Should the vents have something I can close them with for the winter? Should they always stay open? I'm more for the winter time so they don't get too cold!! Husband said he is nor building another one so I want to make sure thus one is perfect.

I will post pictures when I get home
 
The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

  • 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
  • 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
  • 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
  • 1/4 of a nest box,
  • And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
20 hens
  • 80 square feet in the coop. 8'x10' is the most practical because 7'x12' or 6'x14' require a lot of weird cuts.
  • 20 feet of roost
  • 200 square feet in the run. 10'x20', 12'x16' or 8'x25' as suits the land available.
  • 20 square feet of ventilation.
  • 5 nest boxes.
These numbers aren't carved in stone, but they are suggested minimums.

Where, in general, are you? Venting will depend in part on your climate -- for example, here in central North Carolina I need at least two or three times the suggested minimums or deep shade to keep my coop under 100F on a 90+F day.
 
I've built several coops for our chickens here in Virginia, the latest was 8'x8'x8' using 2x4's and 5V metal siding/roofing. I set 24"wide 1/4" rat (machinists) wire around the base and placed 2x4's so that 18 " or so was on the surface. Secured the wire with fabric pins (6") pounded into ground. Base frame had 18" rebar rods pounded through hole in wood base into ground with 2" or so visible above wood. Coop is very secure from winds and predators. If you want more info I have progress photos plus the finished product. I used sand on the floor because its easier on them and you. Either side of the door was a full length "window" with rat wire inside and outside (Top to Bottom). The bottom half of the "window" had metal siding attached for additional protection from predators. It wasn't difficult...I did it alone.
 

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