Butterscotch Update Page 6

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She doesn't need layer unless she is laying. Remember that you have her on antibiotics and you need to check out the withdrawal time for usage of the eggs if she is laying.
 
We havent a clue how old she is. But she looks like she is of laying age dont you think???


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She has been on the sulmet for 3 days.

But if she is of laying age and she is not getting oyster shell and layer pellets, wont she be in danger of being eggbound or having shelless eggs when she begins to lay again??? Judging by her face shot, do you think that she is laying, but has just temporarily stopped due to the stress of moving or the illness maybe???
 
So I think she is of laying age also, so I am gathering we should start the layer and grit and oyster shell, is that correct? Or should we keep her on the medicated chick starter until I actually lay eyes on a cackleberry
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LOL (sorry I couldn't resist, I've been dying to use that since I saw it on the Mom is so weird thread!!)
 
I'd go ahead and start changing her ratio of medicated feed to layer feed. She doesn't have to be laying to be fed layer feed, my roosters eat layer feed and they haven't started laying eggs (nor have they stopped harrasing my hens and pullets). In fact, the layer feed may encourage her to start laying again.

I think it's politically correct to wean the birds off of the medicated stuff, like you're supposed to do with cats when you change up their food as not to upset their stomachs.
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Usually the feed sack will have the ratio directions on the bag or a paper tag.
 
"my roosters eat layer feed and they haven't started laying eggs "


ChicknGurl: first of all, roosters DONT lay eggs! Second of all, even though most people feed roosters layer feed, it is not the proper diet for them. They make rooster feed with the proper nutrition for them. And as far as cats go....they have nothing to do with chickens. If someone wants to change between feeds, they do not need to mix it with the old food to prevent stomach problems.

Jeaucamom: I applaud all your efforts with everything you have done so far. Just please be careful when asking for help that you research the treatments you are given, please just dont go 'do it' to your chicken because someone says to. Some people dont know and are guessing, however, there are some very knowledgable people on here that give great advice, you just need to know which ones these are. I dont mean to put down any person who means well and is just trying to help, I 'm just saying, be careful with all the different 'solutions' that all the different people come up with.

Dlhunicorn posted a great article about the sulmet, if you have followed the directions on administering this drug and it has been the proper amount of days, take her off of it. She can be fed layer feed at anytime you want to give it to her. It is not going to hurt her if she is not on layer feed and happens to lay an egg. As far as the oyster shell, if when she starts to lay eggs again, you find the shells are very thin, then supply the oyster shell. If she never has access to outside, then you can add grit to the food.

Best of luck to you.
 
B is doing well, she coos at us when we talk to her. She is definitely getting sweeter by the day. She had a normal poop the size of a D cell battery this am... NOT exxagerating.... but then the next few still had blood in them. She loves her yogurt and being held and pet. We will be cutting her Sulmet in half for the next four days, but I am concerned that she still has so much blood in her poop. And no eggs yet, but that is okay. Generally speaking, she is doing Great!

PS Sorry the camera has no batteries, so pics soon
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You could start her on a 30/70% UN-medicated chick starter/Laymaker rations. Just keep her on that till she starts laying. I would keep her on that till she is 100% a ok.
I personally do not like DE on my chickens skins because it seems to be itchy and didn't do what I wanted. A light dusting with sevin dust is better, and not as itchy.

I would also not put her into your main flock but put her and any others you got from the... people... who dropped them off for 6 weeks quarentine. Then move them close enough to see them when the 6 weeks is over. A distance of 100 yards down wind is best. If you get anymore from these uh... people, remember to keep them as isolated as the others.

As with any birds you buy or bring home all should be isolated for a quarentine. The humaine society does it all the time with canines and cats. No matter how sad Butterscotch is and looks nothing will compare to how sad you will be if your other birds get sick just because you wanted to 'save' these birds.

Arklady
 

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