BYC KNITTING CLUB

[MullersLaneFarm]

Pook, I like using circular needles instead of straight primarily because I don't have to hold up the weight of the project while I'm knitting. It drops into my lap and my wrists and hands like it so much better!

Just finished another BSJ last night ... well all but the sewing of the shoulder seams

 

[GardenGirl]

Quote:
Question on circular needles. When you knit with them, does the weight of the project pull and tighten the piece as they move off the needles? i have been wanting to learn to knit in the round, make soks and animals and such, but I can't decide if I should learn the double point needle way, or the circular needle way. Any opinions? I figure if I'm learning from scratch, no preferences yet.

 

[catcrazyuk]

I haven't noticed any pulling with the circulars... The other plus side to them, that no one has mentioned so far, is that you don't accidentally keep stabbing yourself like you do with DPNs! Ok, maybe the stabbing is just me

Hugs,
Cat.

 

[MullersLaneFarm]

No, I haven't noticed any tightening of stitches.

Socks and mittens I still use the DPN. I haven't been comfortable using the 'magic loop' for such small items and trying to knit them on smaller circulars have only led to frustration for me.

 

[WoodlandWoman]

The problem I have with double pointed needles is that I'm a loose knitter. If I'm not careful and fling that project around a little too much, a needle can slip out.

When I first started knitting, I was knitting too tightly and fighting the yarn with every stitch. As I learned to loosen up and not knit too tightly, I had uneven stitches. Then I got to the point where my knitting was smooth and I was fast. I just knit slightly looser than average. I usually use a needle one size smaller, to hit gauge on my swatch.

I think socks are the main thing I've used DPNs for and I've only done a couple of different patterns. I've knit more sweaters than anything else. My family likes hand knit sweaters, especially if they can get a pattern altered because they're not a standard body type. Some of them have longer or shorter than average arms/torsos. Or they just like their sweaters to fit a certain way. It's so easy to knit a few more or a few less rows on a sleeve or the main body.

 

[GardenGirl]

Thank you for all the help. I am also a little looser than gauge and have to work with smaller needles as well, so I think working with circulars will be better for this reason. I never thought about that. I swear sometimes that if there was no knob at the end of the needles, the stiches would fall off.

 

[PineBurrowPeeps]

Quote:
Nikki, could you please pass on the sock patterns for regular needles? I have a ton fo yarn and three kids with cold feet that I want to knit some socks for but I don't have any double pointed needles at the moment.
Thanks!

 

[Queen Scoot]

heres a pretty easy 2 needle sock pattern hope this helps!
size 5 needles,

Sport or worsted weight yarn, around 4 oz.

LET'S GO:

* Cast on 41 sts, loosely,

* work in1x1, or 2x2 rib for 7-8 inches for a fold down top,

HEEL:

Knit 11 sts, work back and forth on these 11 sts in stockinette for 16 rows, ending with a purl row. Turn this half of the heel as follows:

Row 1:-K2, k2tog, k1, turn, slip1, P3, turn.

Row 3:-K3, K2tog, K1, turn, slip1, P4, turn.

Row 5:-K4, K2tog, K1, turn, slip1, P5, turn.

Row 7:-K5, k2tog, K1. (7 sts on needle.)

Using left needle pick up 10 sts on the side of the heel, and knit them. Knit across the 19 instep sts. (36 sts on needle). Work back and forth in stockinette on the remaining 11 sts for 17 rows ending with a knit row. Now turn the other half heel as follows:

Row1:- P2, P2tog, P1, turn, slip1, K3, turn.

Row3:- P3, P2tog, P1, turn, slip1, K4, turn.

Row5:- P4, P2tog, P1, turn, slip1, K5, turn.

Row7:- P5, P2tog, P1, (7 sts on needle).

Pick up 10 sts on side of heel, and purl them. Continue purling across the whole sock.(53 sts on needle).

INSTEP SHAPING

Row1:- K15, K2tog, K19, slip1, K1, PSSO, K15.

Row2:- and all even # rows, purl.

Row3:- K14, K2tog, K19, slip1, K1, PSSO, K14.

Row5:- K13, K2tog, K19, slip1, K1, PSSO, K13.

Row7:- K12, K2tog, K19, slip1, K1, PSSO, K12.

Row9:- K11, K2tog, K19, slip1, K1, PSSO, K11.

Row11:-K10, K2tog, K19, slip1, K1, PSSO, K10.

You should have 41 sts remaining.

* Now work straight in stockinette for 30 rows for a size 7 foot. For a longer or shorter foot, go until this section measures about 1"3/4 shorter than the full length of your foot. Measure from the back of the heel, and end with a purl row.

TOE DECREASE

Row1:-K8, K2tog,K2, slip1, K1, PSSO, K13, K2tog, K2,

slip1, k1, PSSO, K8.

Row 2 and all even rows:- purl.

Row 3:- K7, K2tog, K2, slip1, K1, PSSO, K11, K2tog, K2,

slip1, K1, PSSO, K7.

Row5:- K6, K2tog, K2, slip1, K1, PSSO, K9, K2tog, K2,

slip1, K1, PSSO, K6.

Continue decreasing as above until 17 sts remain on the needle. Put these sts on a holder, I use a colored piece of wool.

FINISHING

Using a flat seam technique,(very important!), sew the back and underside of the sock. If you are planning to turn down the cuff, don't forget to reverse the seam at the turn down point so it is inside the cuff. Graft, or weave the toe, and weave in loose ends.

 

[welman]

Phew...you gals are BUSY. I just made it through 32 of the 70something pages looking for knitting two socks at one time. I'm totally inspired to get back to one of many unfinished projects, so I"ll have to carry on reading through the other 40 tomorrow!

Happy Knitting!

~Angi

 

[Silly Chickens]

Quote:
Sweet!

I have a Kromski also ... the Sonata. My other wheel, an Ashford Traveller with jumbo bobbin, is used for plying.

then there's the Ashford traddie I just sold, the late 1700's saxony and the late 1800's walking wheel ..... they just seem to multiply over the years .... just like fiber and yarn and material and looms and needles ...

and chickens!!!

I got my first and only so far wheel in Feb. of 2008, it's the Kromski Prelude. I would love a Symphony.