California - Northern

Went in the run today to let my flock out and there's quite a few piles of bright green poo. My one pullet that was sickly first seems fine now. My Roo crowed at me today . That's more then he did yesterday. But is still not getting down from the roost. :(((

Now my Buff Orp hen isn't getting down either!

I'm so frustrated and nervous about all this! I have no experience with sick birds! And there was absolutely no signs of any illness before the rain storms.

I put Corid in their water. Removed the AVC water. I put Vetrx on their Combs and waddles. I treated them with frontline plus (there was not a single bug of any sort on any of them) that I could see. Putting cayenne powder on their food and giving them free choice fresh chopped garlic.

I'm at a loss! Feeling overwhelmed by their poor state. I want to help them! Is there anything else I could/should do?

At this point I would make sure they are drinking the water. You might have to hand or tube feed them.

Green poo often means they are not eating and passing bile. Good luck sweetie :(.
 
We have been talking about setting eggs so I did a search for some information: [COLOR=CC0033]


[/COLOR] The Small end vs big end up is clarified here. I collect for 5 days and put them into an egg flat tilted. I turn the eggs several times a day. I guess I could just keep them small end up but I am not collecting them for more than 10 days. The article also said: If a seller collects for 5 days and ships on the sixth day, then the shipping time will put them into the 8 day old range. The hatch rate will be lower already by the collecting and shipping times. That is why it is better to get them into the incubator as soon as they are at room temperature. That would be in the several hour range. The eggs should be set big end up without turning for 3 to 5 days depending on the condition of the air cell.
Many peafowl breeders won't buy shipped eggs because of this as pea eggs are very difficult to incubate and shipping just makes it that much harder. -Kathy
 
Many peafowl breeders won't buy shipped eggs because of this as pea eggs are very difficult to incubate and shipping just makes it that much harder.

-Kathy

I once read an article about breeding peas that said this breeder used bantam cochins for the first 10 days of incubation. Then they put the viable eggs in the bator. They had 3 pages on why bantam cochins. It was very imformative.
 


Wierd.
hmm.png
. Like webbed? Nope, not showing.
No it means the toes in the back are Flat and not up The leg. Or at least that is what I thought it ment lol[/QUOTE]

The definition for DUCK FOOT is when the hind toe is carried forward to touch or almost touch the third foot, instead of carried backward to help balance the bird (source: APA SOP). Here's an example of duck foot:


I do have a question about whether the toes in the top photo would be considered duck footed? I realize that they are not in the correct position, but they are pointing in to center, rather than forward. Would feet like that that still be a DQ? @fowlman01 I'm asking because many of my Dorkings have toes like that - pointing in to center. I know that it's something that I have to fix but wonder if it's considered duckfoot?
 
Oh thqt is a better photo then the first example I saw. Im very curious too following. Ty capa!! The definition for DUCK FOOT is when the hind toe is carried forward to touch or almost touch the third foot, instead of carried backward to help balance the bird (source: APA SOP). Here's an example of duck foot: I do have a question about whether the toes in the top photo would be considered duck footed? I realize that they are not in the correct position, but they are pointing in to center, rather than forward. Would feet like that that still be a DQ? @fowlman01 I'm asking because many of my Dorkings have toes like that - pointing in to center. I know that it's something that I have to fix but wonder if it's considered duckfoot?
 
I once read an article about breeding peas that said this breeder used bantam cochins for the first 10 days of incubation. Then they put the viable eggs in the bator. They had 3 pages on why bantam cochins. It was very imformative.


I think Legg's Peafowl uses banty Cochins, and I used two of mine to hatch some last year, but I let them sit the whole 26-28 days instead because I have just the one small bator and couldn't justify buying another, lol. I have to agree, the bantam Cochins were great broodies, wish I had more as my two are five this year and probably won't lay more eggs.

-Kathy
 
I think Legg's Peafowl uses banty Cochins, and I used two of mine to hatch some last year, but I let them sit the whole 26-28 days instead because I have just the one small bator and couldn't justify buying another, lol. I have to agree, the bantam Cochins were great broodies, wish I had more as my two are five this year and probably won't lay more eggs.

-Kathy

My experiance with older broodies (silkies) is they can still decide to sit after henopause. They will lay 1 egg and sit . 5 years is a good like kudos to you and your banties!
 
Poo Sample?

Good idea!

Look for the Fecal test form--it was $10.50 the last time I looked. If you do not find it, then call them for help. They are very helpful.

You collect a sample from different birds in the morning and put it into a double zip lock bag. I carry it in since the lab is on the same campus where I work. I asked them to check for Cocci along with worms.

Thank you! I called and spoke with them to verify I do it right. I may drive it there. I'm going to try this week.

Trying to juggle all this is a bit difficult...
15 chickens (3 chicks inside and an incubator going into lock down tonight),
2 goats due to kid soon (needing shots, nail trim, wormer, ect),
my moms 2 horses that are staying at my house for the time being,
AND 6 children!!
Man my plate overfloweth!

Ok. Done venting! :)

My male CLB chick seems to have a saggy bum. It seems swollen..? And he has no tail feathers. They are a 1 1/2 weeks and the two girls have long tail feathers coming in.
 

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