California - Northern

My chick is strong and it is a crack up! I put it in a small tupperware cup for PT. It flopped out and flipped the cup over. So I switched it to a coffee mug that is twice as tall as this baby for its second session. I just watched it scale the inside of the cup and flop itself out. I have the hobbles on but you can see they are too loose. I will need a second pair of hands I think to make sure the next pair is tight enough. But I feel like I have traumatized it enough for the morning so am giving it a break. But it can get its body upright, its feet are moving forward and it is walking instead of flopping so that is progress. It is also loud.

After driving all over town on a quest to find Poly Vi Sol w/o iron I gave it a couple of drops when I got home at 4:45 is and then a couple more around 9:00

I gave it a couple this morning but can't seem to find how often I should be dosing it.

It just found its reflection in the finish on the mug and is studying and pecking at it. I need to get it a buddy. Anyone have bantam (silkie?) chicks in Lake, Sonoma, Mendocino, Napa or Marin counties?
 
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For the spraddled chick, take some medical tape (like you would use to tape a guaze pad to someone) and tape the legs together in the proper position. I've had good luck fixing spraddle legs if fixed in the first couple of days. Leave the hobble on for 2-3 days and then check the chick. It usually falls off on it's own by 3 days, so I don't normally have to remove it. Temperature issues and stuck chicks can have leg issues. My last one was a chick that was stuck in the egg - it had zipped but couldn't turn to get all the way out. Be very careful with hobbled chicks, they can drown in the waterer more easily. Most run around just fine though.

Here's more info, if you need it:
https://sites.google.com/a/larsencreek.com/chicken-orthopedics/leg-braces

The only leg issue I have not been able to fix, and will cull for, is a slipped hock tendon. I've tried to fix them, and I always end up putting the chick down.
You are an angel! Thanks!

BTW extra toes and feathered legs make this a more difficult process for sure.
 
Quote: Thanks for the great info. I'm thinking I'll wear one of those white suites next time I drop my wife off at the nail salon.
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I kinda have an attitude about them only because I owned a manufacturing company for 29 years that received regular visits from varies regulators regarding chemicals. One little misstep and we received the wrath of Khan even while our toxic levels were a fraction of those of any nail salon. But then I'd better stop before I get kicked off this site for talking politics.
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fixed the hobbles with the help of my friend and fellow chicken keeper, the Bio teacher across the hall

It is moving around WAY better and cheaping less incessently.


Still don't know how often I should be giving it the Poly Vi Sol...Can someone tell me??

Thanks all!

Pics to come
 
I have been using Oxine this year on all my animal enclosures. I was leery about using the citric acid to activate it, since everyone here on BYC says not to use it. I did some research, read the company info and read about how exhibition breeders on another forum use it, after they had consulted with the distributor.

It does not work as well if you don't activate it, and is a waste of time & money. The point of using it is to kill bacteria, fungi & viruses. For example, it won't kill Avian Influenza, E.coli, and Salmonella, etc. unless activated. So, if you are using it to sanitize surfaces, enclosures etc. - activate it with the citric acid. Remove animals & feed before using activated Oxine.

Just wear a mask, like you'd use for painting or cleaning the coop. It's really not strong smelling, much less so than bleach. Simple to mix. It's not dangerous. I don't know why people on BYC recommend not activating it.

The exceptions for activating it would be for water sanitation or misting the chickens. Don't mix with citric acid if you want to use it directly in the water or on the chickens. Misting the chickens with oxine aids in upper respiratory problems and kills surface pathogens. Oxine treated water kills water borne pathogens and eliminates bio-film. Oxine used continuously through the watering system has consistently shown that it maintains the health and production of broilers, turkeys and laying hens.

You can find citric acid in grocery or drug stores, if needed.

Most of this has already been answered, but I'm going to restate it to make sure i'm correct and add ONE( Ok, I came up with 2 questions, I lied) more question. So, if I want to OMGWTFBBQSAUCE clean everything between hatches, broods, or moving pens ( hrm.. will it kill lice? dsont sound like it) Im going to activate it with citric acid. I can do this as I use it.

1. Is it safe to use inside on my cutting boards? I Have been mising my sink and cutting boards with Oxine any time I use a home processed bird, or any meats. I have been reading Modernist Cusine( there is about 250 pages on kitchen sanitation and since using the suse vide and cooking at lower temps I have been MUCH more careful) , and they are unkind to chicken sanitation and I freaked out a bit. I know chicken poo gets around in my house, so I mist a lot of things.
2. Do I use ACTIVATED if I am trying to insure against MG in shipped eggs or fight against bacteria a hen may have in her tract? Or is that too strong for the baby inside the egg?

Thank you for the clarified info. I think I just remembered birds should not breath in activated and stopped at that point.

I was about to purchase Oxine then backed off due to confusion over activating it or not.
1. What is the formula you use to mix Oxine with the citric acid?
2. How do you apply it?
3. Is there a shelf life to store activated Oxine?
4. Regarding it's danger; is spraying activated Oxine anywhere as toxic as walking into a nail salon? (Not picking on Nail Salon's here, just trying to put things in prospective.)
I don't get my nails done either! But Im lazy about how I look. I was pretty as a young thing without effort, so I still think I am and dont bother with almost anything. I buy a thing of makeup once every 10 years or so . I don't even get my hair cut by normal people, lol.

fixed the hobbles with the help of my friend and fellow chicken keeper, the Bio teacher across the hall

It is moving around WAY better and cheaping less incessently.


Still don't know how often I should be giving it the Poly Vi Sol...Can someone tell me??

Thanks all!

Pics to come
Completly unscientifically I give drench 2-3x a day when I'm worried about a chick. If they wont drink I put it on the beak and feet, but ND can be absorbed a bit better . I do not know where I got that from and it may not be correct.
 
fixed the hobbles with the help of my friend and fellow chicken keeper, the Bio teacher across the hall

It is moving around WAY better and cheaping less incessently.


Still don't know how often I should be giving it the Poly Vi Sol...Can someone tell me??

Thanks all!

Pics to come
Use it for a couple of days or until the chick is better. After that, start something like save a chick.
 
fixed the hobbles with the help of my friend and fellow chicken keeper, the Bio teacher across the hall

It is moving around WAY better and cheaping less incessently.


Still don't know how often I should be giving it the Poly Vi Sol...Can someone tell me??

Thanks all!

Pics to come
I don't see how it would hurt. I'd give it vitamins.
 
Use it for a couple of days or until the chick is better. After that, start something like save a chick.

Thanks! It is quite healthy otherwise. With the new hobbles it is ripping around the temporary brooder I have set up in my classroom.

I am amazed that it is as large as it is. Seems like its egg was barely bigger than its head and yet here it is. Wild how they can fit in those things. Is there any sort of syndrome that goes along with "too small eggs?"
 

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