California - Northern

[casportpony]

Understood, but I'm not sure it's something one could do with the average needle and syringe and surely there is a preferred spot on/in the egg to do it?


-Kathy

Yes, and like you posted, it is likely a vaccine that we cannot get.

There may be someone working on a home version somewhere. It sure would help those with Breeds that are dying from mareks.

My knowledge on the subject is quite limited and just recently learned that there were different types of Marek's vaccines.

-Kathy

 

[chiqita]

I have no idea how one would do it. Send a PM to Nambroth and Seminolewind or call a hatchery, maybe they could tell you?

-Kathy

I will read the article . what is the info to contact the other people? Or where could I find it not trying to be lazy but would follow up!

I should clarify that I feather sex. I don't know if it works for other breed but the Oprington has a feather pattern when they start coming in. It so far in 2 years seems have been 100% accurate for identifying rooster, as well as adding comb swell, but sometimes cockerels are late bloomers on swelling. But there is always a chance of being wrong. if I still have pullets and you get a cockerel we can trade out. Plus my chicks are organic.

Yes pictures! It would be great to be able to sell sets of jubilees.

I can comb sex a fair few of them, and if I'm certain I'm not wrong. But there are always " not yet boys" in my hatches I am uncertain on. I can even do some comb sexing on silkies but since it may take 9 months or a year to tell I'll never know how right I am lol. Ron's boy was on the fence until February. Either a non crowing submissive male with a small comb or a girl with a large comb. No feathers until late! Stinker. And them there was moppet who was a year old before she became a he.

I always tell people if I know it is a boy I don't sell it but I don't know about the not gets heh.

 

[Audio51]

Quote:
I always have that fear too...that is why I usually leave them until about day 24-25.

 

[member 142084]

Quote: Yeah I call them 'late bloomers' LOL I have had a few cock like that. But the feathers seem to be adequate.. plus it used to be striping since it was first generation lemons with buffs so only the cocks had stripes at the time. And yes it helped me realize that the feather patter wasn't just my imagination. Now I can't go by stripes since I no longer have non-bar gened hens. I should put them all in a box and take a pic then label them on photoshop. Then do it again at each stage get close up of cocks. I have 2 cages so I plan to sort them.


Yes it would be great. You can just tell you clients it 'should' be a cock and hen and if they get a mistake you offer to trade out... if they pick up. But like I mentioned it depends on if you have any left, or sell with a 'possible risk of being wrong' At least you tried though. Feed stores don't guarantee sex.



My new baby. love that brooder. Got it from the Cash farm. I had to get smart yesterday when moving the Turkey down into a cage. The water trough had a leak in one of the seems. So I stuffed plumbers putty in the crack and works like a charm! Should be safe as long as a long necked bird doesn't stick their head all the way in that deep trough to eat it, but I highly doubt that will be an issue. The ducks will go on the bottom. I just need to get my folding cage back so I can put them out on the lawn for turn out. I put a piece of plywood on top to keep the cats out.

 

[debs_flock]

Quote: Kinda hard to explain without showing on a chick. The cocks feather out starting with a ridge at one would consider the shoulder bone down the back just behind the wing. It looks like 2 mohawks running half way down the back. Feathers come in less smooth.

The pulled seem to feather out more smooth and even around the body.


Its not easy unless you figure out what you are looking for. but I pay attention to details in everything and learn through observation. Thats how i learned to feed and nurture some wild animals over the years when helping them.. or just paying attention to them out of curiosity.

I should try taking pics and documenting this


I've always noticed the same feather pattern and posted pictures of it once, let me see if I can find them. I've found it to be true in all breeds. I first noticed it about 35 years ago when raising meat chicks.

 

[debs_flock]

Cockerel


Pullet (this was a frizzled chicks, hence the funny wing feathers coming in)

 

[chiqita]

@Flowers of Abba ! I just read the first part of this article
http://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/5/incubation-and-hatchery/1123/hatching-at-high-altitudes
Ok, its a middle part but it is
"The following three scenarios are considered:
1) Eggs produced at sea level: hatchery at altitude (1000-2000 metres)
Of the three scenarios, this is the least desirable because it will definitely result in reduced hatchability. Eggs produced at sea level have a relatively large effective pore area and will therefore lose more water at higher altitudes. To compensate, setters and hatchers should be operated at a higher relative humidity. This is best achieved by pre-conditioning the inlet air to a relative humidity of 75 per cent, with a temperature of 24-28ºC (optimum). At the same time, increase the ventilation rate from normal for sea level, to accomodate the reduced oxygen levels. "
Translated into maranese: You are a good place to hatch Marans chicks! lol. You were wondering why they kept hatching better then the others: I bet this is a big part! Marans loose water weirdly and clearly going up helps!
That was my oh wow of the day, carry on...

 

[member 142084]

that about it, one the get longer though it is very prominent. The pullets feather out in other areas first too.

 

[Flowers of Abba]

@Flowers of Abba ! I just read the first part of this article http://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/5/incubation-and-hatchery/1123/hatching-at-high-altitudes Ok, its a middle part but it is "[COLOR=6D6E71]The following three scenarios are considered:[/COLOR]
1) Eggs produced at sea level: hatchery at altitude (1000-2000 metres) Of the three scenarios, this is the least desirable because it will definitely result in reduced hatchability. Eggs produced at sea level have a relatively large effective pore area and will therefore lose more water at higher altitudes. To compensate, setters and hatchers should be operated at a higher relative humidity. This is best achieved by pre-conditioning the inlet air to a relative humidity of 75 per cent, with a temperature of 24-28ºC (optimum). At the same time, increase the ventilation rate from normal for sea level, to accomodate the reduced oxygen levels. "
Translated into maranese: You are a good place to hatch Marans chicks! lol. You were wondering why they kept hatching better then the others: I bet this is a big part! Marans loose water weirdly and clearly going up helps!
That was my oh wow of the day, carry on...

Yes! I ran the Temp and humidity as if the egg was from here... I was to tired these days to stress out and out it where I was used too. Apparently the breese liked it too. The little eggs DONT handle the pressure/ decrease in oxy/ or humidity change. I've had good hatching exults on shipping down little eggs but not up .....

 

[Audio51]

Quote:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chic CAN

My son has his way with the wee ones. The ducklings literally flock to him. Happened 2 years ago too.

I can just hear them saying "MOMMY!!!". Must be the blonde hair. If you don't mind me asking, how old is he?

He is 4. I taught him to always be gentle with animals especially babies. He also plays very well with infants and toddlers younger than he.. he just rough and tumbles and beats up anyone bigger than him LOL. It must be the hair, they did not do that with me lol.

That's the same age as my granddaughter. I will see how she does when my runner ducks hatch.

Quote: I missed that liz. I'm so sorry. Those small eggs are tricky. You have done such an amazing job so far!

I think this would be the ideal method! Again, I'm no expert, but Nambroth and Seminolewind have commented that there are a few different types of the vaccine available to hatcheries, but backyarders like us can only get one of them (don't quote me on that, 'cause I may have misunderstood what they were saying

).

-Kathy

Do you think I could not kill them all with a small enough needle? I would be up for it if I could get the equipment and do it by hand. I hate it when people loose pets and I know my silkies are not fully immune stock. I think the bresse are. Marans I should ask peter if he vaccs.
I wonder how the vaccine gets into the chicks system. Sounds like it's going into the air cell, but maybe not.

Just did a quick search on vaccinating through the shell (in-ovo) and what I read says that it requires that it be given when moving from incubator to hatcher and that it must be precisely given. Read more about it here:
http://cobb-vantress.com/products/g...cination-procedure-guide/hatchery-vaccination

-Kathy

Great link! This sounds like it goes in below the air cell, but I wonder how they would avoid poking the chick

Quote: Yeah I call them 'late bloomers' LOL I have had a few cock like that. But the feathers seem to be adequate.. plus it used to be striping since it was first generation lemons with buffs so only the cocks had stripes at the time. And yes it helped me realize that the feather patter wasn't just my imagination. Now I can't go by stripes since I no longer have non-bar gened hens. I should put them all in a box and take a pic then label them on photoshop. Then do it again at each stage get close up of cocks. I have 2 cages so I plan to sort them.


Yes it would be great. You can just tell you clients it 'should' be a cock and hen and if they get a mistake you offer to trade out... if they pick up. But like I mentioned it depends on if you have any left, or sell with a 'possible risk of being wrong' At least you tried though. Feed stores don't guarantee sex.



My new baby. love that brooder. Got it from the Cash farm. I had to get smart yesterday when moving the Turkey down into a cage. The water trough had a leak in one of the seems. So I stuffed plumbers putty in the crack and works like a charm! Should be safe as long as a long necked bird doesn't stick their head all the way in that deep trough to eat it, but I highly doubt that will be an issue. The ducks will go on the bottom. I just need to get my folding cage back so I can put them out on the lawn for turn out. I put a piece of plywood on top to keep the cats out.
One of these days I will find one of those brooders for sale.......