California - Northern

[zooweemama]

Ok I got the Corid. I need to google a dosage for the water. The directions are for cattle. I made it with my mess of kids for an emergency run. They are are a couple bags of licorice richer. haha

Questions:

I got some Nutra-drench for the chickens. Should I add that AFTER the treatment or TO the treated water?

Should I wait to treat them with Ivermectin AFTER I am done treating them with Corid? I do not want to overwhelm their immune systems.

Thank you thank you thank you guys!!

 

[chickee]

Incubating eggs is so much fun! Good luck on your first go at it!
From what I have read about the dry incubation method, your room humidity needs to be kept at least 50% for it to be successful. I don't have a room where I can keep it at those levels so I keep the humidity in my incubator at 40% day 1 through day 18 and up it to 65% on day 19 and have had good hatches. The most important thing to do is calibrate your hygrometer to be sure it is accurate. The humidity on my digital indoor/outdoor thermometer/hygrometer reads 9% low, which means that I would be keeping my humidity too high if I went by its numbers. Using the salt method to calibrate it is easy

Keep us updated

Hey everyone!

Just taking a break from coop building! I wanted to update on how my first incubation is going.
I set my eggs yesterday morning around 2:00am. I set 17 eggs. My hens are RIR and GSL and the roo is Ron's Dorking/Americuana he gifted me a month or so back
Hens...

Drae'...

Heres the bator...
its been holding around 99.8F- 101.9F and my room humidty in the high 30's im doing the dry incubation method so this is ideal room humidty correctk?

I have 6x thermometers. 2 digital hygrometers and 4 of the regular thermometers including the one it came with


I'm not really hoping for a high hatch rate, just want to make sure my setting are correct and I'm getting development.
I'm buying Basque eggs from Mrs. Fluffy this week so I need to practice some.
any tips from the pros??
Have a cool afternoon!

 

[MonsterClucker]

BTW...lol. (Not funny)

This week has been on for the books.
First we had a power outage due to a fire near our house in 104F heat Monday...

I just lost a sheep to an attack from either a dog or coyote... And within the last hour lost a month old turkey poult to a hawk. Just saw it fly off the roof of the garage.

I don't know what happened to the sheep. I've been hearing coyote at night lately, but didn't hear them when they got to my sh (if it was coyote).
The sheep didn't die FROM the attack per say, but from the wound. The sheep's leg was opened up really bad. The vet came out gave him penicillin and sprayed some blu-kote on him. But it was too bad a wound u guess. This morning I found him by the tree passed away.

The poult was just missing on head count and I saw the hawk fly off the roof. Two and two... Hawk food!
Ivebeen seeing him lurk on the fence posts early morning about 2 or 3 acres out into the pasture at the edge of our property but today I saw him in his full glory. Kinda wish I woulda seen him take it or fly off with it at least. So now I'm planning out putting trellis netting over my meatie run...

What a week...

 

[zooweemama]

Ok does this dosing sound good? And I don't know what the other medicine is that he is talking about. In bold and red are highlighted for your thoughts...
http://www.thecozynest.com/understanding_coccidiosis.htm

QUOTE:
Controlling Coccidiosis and still allowing immunity to build is accomplished in the following way. Use Amprol/Corid powder in the birds drinking water at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon of water for seven days and 1/8 teaspoon of 3-Nitro-W (do i need this?) as well. Then skip twenty one days and then begin treating with Sulfadimethoxione at the rate of one ounce per two gallons of drinking water for five days. Then skip twenty one days again and start the treatment all over again beginning with the Amprol/Corid and the 3-Nitro-W powder. Continue this program until all birds are five to six month sold or until the hens begin laying eggs and then discontinue the program and treat on an as needed basis. It is important to start the Amprol/Corid powder first and then use the Sulfadimethoxine as some species of Cocci cause intestinal bleeding and the use of Sulfa drugs first, will contribute to the bleeding before it makes the situation better. It is also advisable to add ¼ teaspoon of VITAMIN E to the water as research shows that VITAMIN E can help shorten the course of a Coccidiosis outbreak. When starting baby chicks it is important to start this program no later than ten days of age as this disease will kill baby chicks very quickly. Newly developed technology has produced a new Coccidiosis vaccine that is both effective, safe and, affordable. It is really simple to use just mix the vaccine according to the directions that are provided with the vaccine and spray the vaccine on the birds feed that you are feeding for the day. Its that simple. If vaccination was done properly the birds will show mild symptoms of Cocci but should not be overwhelmed by the vaccine and immunity will build from there. No medication should be necessary for the life of the birds.

 

[ronott1]

Ok does this dosing sound good? And I don't know what the other medicine is that he is talking about. In bold and red are highlighted for your thoughts...
http://www.thecozynest.com/understanding_coccidiosis.htm

QUOTE:
Controlling Coccidiosis and still allowing immunity to build is accomplished in the following way. Use Amprol/Corid powder in the birds drinking water at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon of water for seven days and 1/8 teaspoon of 3-Nitro-W (do i need this?) as well. Then skip twenty one days and then begin treating with Sulfadimethoxione at the rate of one ounce per two gallons of drinking water for five days. Then skip twenty one days again and start the treatment all over again beginning with the Amprol/Corid and the 3-Nitro-W powder. Continue this program until all birds are five to six month sold or until the hens begin laying eggs and then discontinue the program and treat on an as needed basis. It is important to start the Amprol/Corid powder first and then use the Sulfadimethoxine as some species of Cocci cause intestinal bleeding and the use of Sulfa drugs first, will contribute to the bleeding before it makes the situation better. It is also advisable to add ¼ teaspoon of VITAMIN E to the water as research shows that VITAMIN E can help shorten the course of a Coccidiosis outbreak. When starting baby chicks it is important to start this program no later than ten days of age as this disease will kill baby chicks very quickly. Newly developed technology has produced a new Coccidiosis vaccine that is both effective, safe and, affordable. It is really simple to use just mix the vaccine according to the directions that are provided with the vaccine and spray the vaccine on the birds feed that you are feeding for the day. Its that simple. If vaccination was done properly the birds will show mild symptoms of Cocci but should not be overwhelmed by the vaccine and immunity will build from there. No medication should be necessary for the life of the birds.

Make sure the instructions are for the strength of Corid you bought. That is probably the correct dosage.

If you give them medicated feed after the 5-7 days of treatment, you do not need to do the other stuff. The medicated feed will let them build resistance to Cocci but it does not completely kill it. Once they have built up resistance they will not need the medicated feed. Give the really sick one the vitamins without iron. Yes, you should wait to give them the wormer. You don't want to give them too much medicine since they can't take too much with their little livers and kidneys.

Oh, Vit E cannot hurt.

Ron

 

[Happy Chooks]

I still think it is Cocci and Copper showed the symptoms first. If it is Cocci, Corid in the water will perk them up quickly. It is a 5 to 7 day treatment.

I am wishing the best for you!

Ron

I agree. I first thought cocci when you described Copper's symptoms.

 

[ronott1]

Quote: 101 at the top for short times is ok. If the internal temperature of the egg goes that high the embryo will die. Try the 100.5 and 99 for this hatch and see what day they hatch at. You are supposed to count the day you set them if you set them before noon. That means if you set them before today at noon, today is day one and not tomorrow.

I use this chart:

http://homesteadapps.com/app/free/hatchchart/hatchturnscheentry.php

If they hatch early, the temp was too high. If they hatch late the temp was too low.

If you area anywhere close with the temp and humidity, you will hatch most of those eggs. Wait until day 8 to candle them. They are most fragile for the first 8 days. Also, make sure the incubator is not in the sun and that the room is fairly stable with temperatures with no drafts.

Bye,

Ron

 

[MonsterClucker]

  Incubating eggs is so much fun! Good luck on your first go at it!  
From what I have read about the dry incubation method, your room humidity needs to be kept at least 50% for it to be successful. I don't have a room where I can keep it at those levels so I keep the humidity in my incubator at 40% day 1 through day 18 and up it to 65% on day 19 and have had good hatches. The most important thing to do is calibrate your hygrometer to be sure it is accurate. The humidity on my digital indoor/outdoor thermometer/hygrometer reads 9% low, which means that I would be keeping my humidity too high if I went by its numbers. Using the salt method to calibrate it is easy 
Keep us updated 

I thought I read about the %50 room humidity somewhere! Thank you for refreshing my memory! My humidity will go up to about %40 at night, should I just fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and put it in the room to increase the humidity?

I like the dry methods logic for beginning incubation for me anyways. Seems like it kind of take out a little of the stress and helps you focus on other important incubation steps like development and candeling. But this is just the beginning, its all a learning process. I'm just having fun with it right now!

 

[Happy Chooks]

Laura............Lice come in from wild birds. Dust bathing helps, but will not prevent lice, even in a closed flock. They are a pain in the you know what to get rid of once you get them. I sprinkle DE and occasionally Poultry Dust (same as Sevin Garden dust) around the coop before I put the shavings down, in the nest boxes and in their dust bathing spots. Lice are soft bodied insects and get skewered by the DE.

It just helps as a preventative measure. The lice live on the feather dander, so they can survive anywhere there is dander. (like walls, nest boxes, etc)

 

[zooweemama]

I agree. I first thought cocci when you described Copper's symptoms.

I was side tracked by the impacted crop I think. I was afraid to give meds until another one showed symptoms to confirm. I hope that wasn't a dumb move. I am not sure I can get my pullet to drink anything. I am really concerned I will lose her. She is one of my original pullets from my first batch of chicks. I really do not want to lose her.