Calling All Rabbit Nutters

Are you planning on an indoor or outdoor pet? A lot of the info one finds online is from the house rabbit society (rabbit.org) or other like-minded folk and therefore reflects a very narrow view of rabbit keeping. If you are planning on having a spoiled house bun (like mine) that site is a good place to start your research. But if you are planning on keeping outdoors, breeding, showing etc. you will need to look elsewhere for further guidance. Maybe backyard herds?

Also, I can't fit everything into one post. But I'll give it a go.


Adult rabbits should have unlimited access to timothy hay. There are also some alternatives, like orchard grass and meadow grass. These work too.
If they do not get enough hay they risk going into G.I stasis, which is a quick killer.

About 1/4 cup of pellets a day. At this age they are more too suppliment, not the base of the diet. Rabbits need a diet of around 80% fiber. Their diet should be made of primarily leafy greens.

It depends what you are wanting. IMO free roaming your rabbit is ideal. And that does not have to mean your whole house. Restricting them to a room is fine too, but you do have to make sure you have adequate rabbit proofing. Protecting baseboards, cords, furniture, etc...

Most people's hesitation with free roaming is the fear that it will poop and pee all over the floor. But if you provide your rabbit with an adequate litter box (not one of those triangle things. It should be able to spin 360° inside.) and get it spayed/neutered that shouldn't be much of a problem.

But I do realize free roaming is not an option for everyone. In that case giving your rabbit an x pen or a play pen can work fine. Make sure they have enough room to do zoomies and binky.

You can also keep your rbabit outside. Many do... BUT. You have to be aware there are many risks that come with that. Many stick their rabbits in wire bottom hutches. Rabbits do not have pads on their feet like dogs and cats, so wire bottom cages will hurt their paws. Prefab hutches are often way overpriced, cheaply made, too small, and just overall not suitable for rabbit use. Also, predators. Even if predators can not get in to eat your rbabit, they could just scare it and give it a heart attack that way.
Also overheating. Depending on where you live, rabbits may not do well in your tempurature. Rabbits are not great at controlling their body tempurature. They can withstand temps until about 80°, then anything above that increases their risks of heatstroke.

There really is no one-size-fits-all guide to rabbit care. It's all very dependent on your situation, you, and the individual rabbit.

@EmmaRainboe gave you some great information here.
I don't think there are any single threads or articles here that have all the info you'll need, but here are some posts of mine with info on rabbit care.
I'm also in the process of writing a complete rabbit care article.





How did you become interested in rabbits?

(These next parts are copied from my rabbit article, which I'm still working on so there may be a few typos :oops:.)

Breeds:
There are lots of breeds to choose from, with over 50 breeds being recognized by the ARBA, and over 300 worldwide. Some rabbit breeds, such as the Netherland Dwarf (which is the smallest domestic rabbit breed), weigh as little as 1lbs – 2 ½ lbs. Others, like the Continental Giant (the largest breed of domestic rabbit), can weigh between 16lbs – 25lbs or more, with the largest on record being 53lbs. There are some breeds that have floppy ears, including the English Lop, French Lop, American Fuzzy Lop, and Holland Lop, which are commonly kept as pets. There are also many breeds with long fur or hair, like the English Angora, French Angora, Satin Angora, Lionhead, Jersey Wooly, and American Fuzzy Lop. There are also many meat breeds, such as the Florida White, New Zealand, Californian, American Chinchilla, Flemish Giant, Rex, and Silver Fox.

Remember that long haired breeds are going to need more grooming, and larger breeds are going to need more space and food. Dwarf breeds are going to be extra fragile and are often not very tolerant of children.

Some great beginner breeds include the Rex (also the Mini Rex), Mini Lop, Himalayan, Polish, and Dutch. These breeds are often very laid back and are a of a manageable size.

Mixed breed rabbits also make great pets and often result in very unique looking rabbits. Rabbit rescues often have many mixed breed rabbits to choose from.

It’s important to remember that every rabbit will be different with its own unique personality. Don’t be surprised if the rabbit you get doesn’t match the typical breed characteristics. Spend some time with the rabbits you are considering adopting or buying and ask the caretaker about the rabbits’ personalities. A good rescue or breeder will help match the right rabbit with the right person.

Age:

Baby rabbits have lots of energy, and need lots of attention and play time. Once rabbits reach sexual maturity, around 3 to 6 months depending on the breed, they become quite hormonal which often leads to aggression, territorial behavior, marking, and unwanted chewing. Litter training will become a lot harder during this time, though after 6 months of age you can get your rabbit fixed. After a few months your rabbit should return to his or her sweet self. Young or baby rabbits can be harder to find in rescues but if you are willing to wait you may be able to find one if that’s what your set on. They usually come from rabbits who gave birth at the rescue so there will often be multiple to choose from the litter.

Rabbits around 6 months to 3 years old are fairly easy to find in shelters since people often become bored of them after they’re babies, or don’t want to deal with hormonal rabbits. These rabbits are at just the right age to be fixed, and if you get them from a rescue they will most likely already be fixed unless they have a health issue that prevents them from doing this. Generally speaking though, rabbits around this age won’t have health issues besides physical injures (though rescues don’t put rabbits up for adoption until they’re healed up). 6- to 3-year-old rabbits can also be bought from breeders, though it's a lot harder to find. They will either be from a litter where they didn’t all sell (which is often for a reason), the breeder was reducing the amount of breeder they have, or they’re getting out of breeding.

Senior rabbits are quite common in shelters and rescues because most people want babies or younger rabbits. Senior rabbits can be great laid-back pets, and can be great with other pets (though each rabbits personality will be different). The biggest draw back with senior rabbits though is that they often have health issues. If the rabbit wasn’t brought to the shelter while they were younger it’s risky to get them fixed, so most senior rabbits will not be spayed or neutered. Not having your rabbit fixed can lead to more health issues, which is why senior rabbits often aren’t very healthy. This can make owning a senior rabbit more expensive, especially as they age more. But if you’re willing to put the time and money in you might be the perfect candidate for a senior rabbit. Senior rabbits can also be sold by breeders, typically as retired rabbits that can no longer breed.


Males vs females:

While choosing a gender is completely up to you and often doesn’t matter, there are some differences that you should be aware of. As I’ve mentioned before, getting your rabbit fixed is important, but the gender of your bunny may change the price of that procedure. Female rabbits (does) are often more expensive with spaying being a more invasive surgery than neutering. Male rabbits (bucks) take less time to recover from neutering than spayed does do. Though when bucks reach sexual maturity (at 3 to 6 months depending on the breed) they will often spray and smell more than a doe of the same age. Females on the other hand often become more aggressive at this age than a buck would. If you have two or more does, they will be much harder to bond, even if they came from the same litter. They can’t really be bonded until after they’ve been fixed (which goes for both bucks and does).


Rescues:

Rabbits, being the third most commonly dumped pets, are very easy to find in rescues. Many animal shelters will take in rabbits and there are also plenty of rescues just for rabbis. The House Rabbit Society is a great place to check for rabbit rescues in your area (they also have lots of information on rabbits). With over 35,000 rabbits being abandoned each year, and even more surrendered, rescues become easily overwhelmed with rabbit in their facilities. Easter is an especially busy time since not only are rabbits being dumped, but animals such as ducks and chicks end up in shelters and rescues too.

With over 6.3 million rabbits across shelters in the U.S., there are plenty to choose from with all different breeds and ages, and some in bonded pairs or more. And what’s great about rescuing is that most rescues will pay to get the rabbit fixed, sparing you the extra cost and time it takes to get your rabbit fixed. Most rabbits at rescues are over 6 months old too, so you won’t have to go through the “teenage” stage (which can be a lot to handle for someone new to rabbits).

Choosing to rescue will not only save you lots of money, but you’ll also be saving the life of a bunny who may not have gotten another chance if it weren’t for you. This all makes rescuing the perfect choice for first time bunny owners.



If you have any more questions, please do feel free to ask me, as I'd love to help you and your future bunny. And hopefully this helped to answer some of your questions about rabbits.
Thank you everyone for the information! This helped me a lot. I have considered getting an indoor pet bunny for a while, but seeing this thread got me interested again. I know pretty much nothing about rabbits, so this information will really help me decide if, and how, i can keep one. We have a lot of free-ranging space in our house, and my mom loves animals. The only problem would be if I and/or my dad were allergic, i guess i will have to get tested first.
 
Thank you everyone for the information! This helped me a lot. I have considered getting an indoor pet bunny for a while, but seeing this thread got me interested again. I know pretty much nothing about rabbits, so this information will really help me decide if, and how, i can keep one. We have a lot of free-ranging space in our house, and my mom loves animals. The only problem would be if I and/or my dad were allergic, i guess i will have to get tested first.
Rabbits are a big responsibility and can take up a lot of time and money, but if you're willing to give them a good life they can be amazing pets.

I have a ton of allergies, hay and rabbits being two of them, but there are ways to help if ya'll are allergic but still set on getting a rabbit. One thing you could do which helps a lot of people is using Orchard grass hay instead of timothy. Most people that are allergic to hay have little to no issues with Orchard grass.
Choosing a breed with a different type of hair may also make a big difference with allergies. Some people with rabbit allergies do much better with breeds such as the Rex, or Angora breeds. You'd want to avoid breeds such as the Lionhead, American Fuzzy Lop, or Jersey Wooly because their hair tends to get everywhere (even more so than shorter haired rabbits).
And of course keeping the rabbits enclosure tidy and clean, along with regularly grooming the rabbit will always help.

Everyone's allergies are different though, so what may work for some could still cause problems for others.
 
He's trouble... he escaped his outdoor enclosure last week, we suspected by crawling underneath..reappeared two days later looking for some bananas, so I gave him some banana and moved him to a new enclosure in the chicken coop. 2 days later, he tore the chicken wire from the ceiling of his new enclosure, and climbed up and managed to get stuck inside the wall. 2 hours later, after removing boards from the outside wall to rescue de bad bun, I secured his outdoor enclosure and placed him inside. 5 minutes later while watching him from the window, I witnessed him jumping over the 36in pen and wandering off. I don't know if I should let him continue this free range behavior, or move him in to be a house bun...I can't decide what would be a bigger pita.
That is a very determined bunny :lau
 
@EmmaRainboe gave you some great information here.
I don't think there are any single threads or articles here that have all the info you'll need, but here are some posts of mine with info on rabbit care.
I'm also in the process of writing a complete rabbit care article.





How did you become interested in rabbits?

(These next parts are copied from my rabbit article, which I'm still working on so there may be a few typos :oops:.)

Breeds:
There are lots of breeds to choose from, with over 50 breeds being recognized by the ARBA, and over 300 worldwide. Some rabbit breeds, such as the Netherland Dwarf (which is the smallest domestic rabbit breed), weigh as little as 1lbs – 2 ½ lbs. Others, like the Continental Giant (the largest breed of domestic rabbit), can weigh between 16lbs – 25lbs or more, with the largest on record being 53lbs. There are some breeds that have floppy ears, including the English Lop, French Lop, American Fuzzy Lop, and Holland Lop, which are commonly kept as pets. There are also many breeds with long fur or hair, like the English Angora, French Angora, Satin Angora, Lionhead, Jersey Wooly, and American Fuzzy Lop. There are also many meat breeds, such as the Florida White, New Zealand, Californian, American Chinchilla, Flemish Giant, Rex, and Silver Fox.

Remember that long haired breeds are going to need more grooming, and larger breeds are going to need more space and food. Dwarf breeds are going to be extra fragile and are often not very tolerant of children.

Some great beginner breeds include the Rex (also the Mini Rex), Mini Lop, Himalayan, Polish, and Dutch. These breeds are often very laid back and are a of a manageable size.

Mixed breed rabbits also make great pets and often result in very unique looking rabbits. Rabbit rescues often have many mixed breed rabbits to choose from.

It’s important to remember that every rabbit will be different with its own unique personality. Don’t be surprised if the rabbit you get doesn’t match the typical breed characteristics. Spend some time with the rabbits you are considering adopting or buying and ask the caretaker about the rabbits’ personalities. A good rescue or breeder will help match the right rabbit with the right person.

Age:

Baby rabbits have lots of energy, and need lots of attention and play time. Once rabbits reach sexual maturity, around 3 to 6 months depending on the breed, they become quite hormonal which often leads to aggression, territorial behavior, marking, and unwanted chewing. Litter training will become a lot harder during this time, though after 6 months of age you can get your rabbit fixed. After a few months your rabbit should return to his or her sweet self. Young or baby rabbits can be harder to find in rescues but if you are willing to wait you may be able to find one if that’s what your set on. They usually come from rabbits who gave birth at the rescue so there will often be multiple to choose from the litter.

Rabbits around 6 months to 3 years old are fairly easy to find in shelters since people often become bored of them after they’re babies, or don’t want to deal with hormonal rabbits. These rabbits are at just the right age to be fixed, and if you get them from a rescue they will most likely already be fixed unless they have a health issue that prevents them from doing this. Generally speaking though, rabbits around this age won’t have health issues besides physical injures (though rescues don’t put rabbits up for adoption until they’re healed up). 6- to 3-year-old rabbits can also be bought from breeders, though it's a lot harder to find. They will either be from a litter where they didn’t all sell (which is often for a reason), the breeder was reducing the amount of breeder they have, or they’re getting out of breeding.

Senior rabbits are quite common in shelters and rescues because most people want babies or younger rabbits. Senior rabbits can be great laid-back pets, and can be great with other pets (though each rabbits personality will be different). The biggest draw back with senior rabbits though is that they often have health issues. If the rabbit wasn’t brought to the shelter while they were younger it’s risky to get them fixed, so most senior rabbits will not be spayed or neutered. Not having your rabbit fixed can lead to more health issues, which is why senior rabbits often aren’t very healthy. This can make owning a senior rabbit more expensive, especially as they age more. But if you’re willing to put the time and money in you might be the perfect candidate for a senior rabbit. Senior rabbits can also be sold by breeders, typically as retired rabbits that can no longer breed.


Males vs females:

While choosing a gender is completely up to you and often doesn’t matter, there are some differences that you should be aware of. As I’ve mentioned before, getting your rabbit fixed is important, but the gender of your bunny may change the price of that procedure. Female rabbits (does) are often more expensive with spaying being a more invasive surgery than neutering. Male rabbits (bucks) take less time to recover from neutering than spayed does do. Though when bucks reach sexual maturity (at 3 to 6 months depending on the breed) they will often spray and smell more than a doe of the same age. Females on the other hand often become more aggressive at this age than a buck would. If you have two or more does, they will be much harder to bond, even if they came from the same litter. They can’t really be bonded until after they’ve been fixed (which goes for both bucks and does).


Rescues:

Rabbits, being the third most commonly dumped pets, are very easy to find in rescues. Many animal shelters will take in rabbits and there are also plenty of rescues just for rabbis. The House Rabbit Society is a great place to check for rabbit rescues in your area (they also have lots of information on rabbits). With over 35,000 rabbits being abandoned each year, and even more surrendered, rescues become easily overwhelmed with rabbit in their facilities. Easter is an especially busy time since not only are rabbits being dumped, but animals such as ducks and chicks end up in shelters and rescues too.

With over 6.3 million rabbits across shelters in the U.S., there are plenty to choose from with all different breeds and ages, and some in bonded pairs or more. And what’s great about rescuing is that most rescues will pay to get the rabbit fixed, sparing you the extra cost and time it takes to get your rabbit fixed. Most rabbits at rescues are over 6 months old too, so you won’t have to go through the “teenage” stage (which can be a lot to handle for someone new to rabbits).

Choosing to rescue will not only save you lots of money, but you’ll also be saving the life of a bunny who may not have gotten another chance if it weren’t for you. This all makes rescuing the perfect choice for first time bunny owners.



If you have any more questions, please do feel free to ask me, as I'd love to help you and your future bunny. And hopefully this helped to answer some of your questions about rabbits.
Why dont you write an article? You could probably copy and paste this post.
 
He's trouble... he escaped his outdoor enclosure last week, we suspected by crawling underneath..reappeared two days later looking for some bananas, so I gave him some banana and moved him to a new enclosure in the chicken coop. 2 days later, he tore the chicken wire from the ceiling of his new enclosure, and climbed up and managed to get stuck inside the wall. 2 hours later, after removing boards from the outside wall to rescue de bad bun, I secured his outdoor enclosure and placed him inside. 5 minutes later while watching him from the window, I witnessed him jumping over the 36in pen and wandering off. I don't know if I should let him continue this free range behavior, or move him in to be a house bun...I can't decide what would be a bigger pita.
Just eat him.
If Trebbie gets bad like this he is toast.
 

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