Hello BantyRooster! I used primarily white pine for the framing and siding.At first I was a bit concered about this choice.So I would go to old farms to see what the old timers used.It was white pine!
I estimated some of these coops and barns to be at 75 years old. If I keep a good roof on it, the building should last. Also,If I'm not mistaken, I've heard Chickens and Eastern red cedar DON'T mix.
If anyone has info on cedar, let us know... Thanks BantyRooster!
I have a question about your coop. We used wood fencing (no saw mill handy for us here, ha!
) You can see it on my BYC page.
When we put all the wood on, it was very tight fitting, with no gaps... a week later, there are gaps bigger than pencils!
So, do you think, if we covered them with the thin slats of wood, it would be okay? That is what it LOOKS like on yours, and I am curious. Hubby is out of town, and I was thinking I would have to remove all the wood, and put plywood, or something, underneath it, and then reattach all the fence boards.
So much work! I am thinking, by the looks of yours, that I might be able to get away with putting 2 inch thick pieces of wood over the gaps...
Let me know if this is what you guys did, because I LOVE your coop!
That is beautiful. I love that you can walk in and stand in the coop. I love the size of your run. I can't tell if it is an open or closes run? Your husband did a super job. Mine build mine as well. I attached a few pics. It is so nice to have a handy husband, isn't it?!!
that is a great looking coop, and so is the play ground one too lol
I wish my hubby had a sawmill ( Im scared to add up what we have spend on lumber for ours )
Hi Hypnotist_Collectr .Thanks for the kind words! Your in good shape. Just go over the seams with 1 1/2" or 2" strips. When your nailing the seams,try not to nail through the boards.The nails should hit the framing that the boards are nailed to.The boards will want to expand and contract with humidity changes.If the boards are nailed on the edge, they might split. In other words, the boards widen and narrow and the "battons" seal the gap and keep the edges of your boards from curling out.