Chicken coop plans

[Witchychickens]

I'll start with 'anything else'

Step 1 - Check your local laws and ordinances. There are lots of sad stories on the board about how everything was okay, my neighbors loved the chickens ... until everything wasn't okay and somebody didn't love the chickens. If you have to fight city hall, you want to make that fight BEFORE you start your chicken journey. Some places limit the number of chickens you can own or whether or not you can have rooster. Often there are offset requirements that dictate where you place the coop relative to your own hour or to your neighbors property.

Step 2 - Try to determine what you want from your chickens. (and consider how likely your plans are to change) Do you want eggs? Do you want meat? Are you looking for fertilizer? ... there are some people on this board that care little to nothing about the eggs and just want the poop. Do you want 'farm animals' or do you want 'pets?' If you are looking for eggs, how many do you want in a week/month? If you are looking for meat, how frequently do you plan on harvesting a chicken?

Step 3 - Think about the lifespan of a chicken. Some of the biggest egg producers often live not much passed two years. Some can live 10 years. As chickens age their production slows down - in most cases quite considerably. Do you plan to cull and replace or, will you support older hens in their 'retirement?' Based on your answers in 1 & 2, plan on how you plan on continuing the flock. If you have a rooster will you let a broody hen raise a clutch of chicks? (Some breeds are more conducive to raising chicks than others and requires more research.) Will you buy more chicks? Will you buy pullets? If you going just for eggs, it can make sense to work your way up to your maximum number of chickens over a coupe of years. Otherwise, you can go from feast to famine.

Step 4 - Investigate poop management and what looks like it will work best for you. The two most common coop approaches are deep bedding (keep adding more material / clean out 1-2x / year) and poop boards (placed under the roost and cleaned daily or very near to it)

Step 5 - Now you are ready to start thinking about a coop placement. Keeping in mind steps 1-4, your next concern is property location. You want to avoid your run being in a low spot in the yard. If the place you want your run is often swampy and muddy, you want to pick a different spot. It is much easier to place the run in an ideal location than to try and deal with your run in a swampy location.

Step 6 - Now you can start thinking about coop FEATURES. If you will be introducing pullets, you should have space to quarantine the new birds to keep them away from the existing birds (research and understand quarantining) Introducing pullets or chicks you raise to pullets, at some point you'll need to keep them together but separated so that they older birds don't hurt the newer ones. (they can be shockingly mean.) If you intend to have hens raise chicks, mama bird typically protects the chicks when they need the protection, but they still need space as well as making sure a nesting box is setup somewhere that functions well for chicks. If you intend to do deep bedding, you need to have sufficient space in the bottom of the coop for the bedding .... it's going to build up and get deep. If you use poop boards, you'll need to be able to access those.

Step 7 - Research coop functionality. You want to make sure that you have the space and ventilation required for your maximum expected number of birds. I highly recommend reading @Yakisugi Coop 's coop page: it has lots of thought out points on things like roost height / ventilation height, etc. You may make different choices, the but linked reference will help you make those decisions:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/yakisugi-coop.76398/

As @aart pointed out, building a coop up against a fence corner presents some challenges .... especially for a larger one. You'll want accessibility to get in and work in that coop/run. If a coop is above ground and not walk-in, most any coop I've seen needs at least 1 side for clean out and 1 for egg collection

Two important points on insulation. ... It's a GREAT place for rodents to overwinter and stay longer if they like it there. There is almost no way to trap in heat without trapping in the air - especially at the top of the coop. Bad things happen if you trap in air - especially at the top of the coop. Unless you are in the northern parts of Canada, don't worry about insulation but instead worry about stopping drafts while having ventilation.

The almost singular alternative to not having a means of heating water is to bring fresh water to the chickens 1st thing in the morning, 1 hour before sundown, plus as frequently as necessary throughout the day to make sure they have regular access to fresh water.

I was referring to anything else related to the coop. (I didn’t mean this in a rude way, just that I didn’t explain any of that because I didn’t want to put it in the wrong forum).

We have researched or handled 1-4. We plan on a total flock of 6, 8 would be my absolute max and I think with a coop and run the size I’m planning, it could work. I don’t think I could manage more than that. They need to be cold hardy, good layers, we will not have a roo (not allowed here). We do understand better layers live shorter lives. We will replace them as needed. I was planning pullets vs chicks, I know they’re more expensive, we’ve weighed that option. I don’t think raising chicks is for my family at this time. I may change my mind after I research more. I was considering Rhode Island reds, Isa browns, or Red Sex Links.

It’s hard to verbally explain an entire coop plan in type which is why I didn’t go into extreme detail. I did realize after I initially posted that I can run an extension cord for water heating and maybe a light (not for constant light but to help if I need to go out at night).

The plan is for the front that faces the deck (my compost is right there) to have 3 doors one hinges out and down, the other open traditionally. This would allow me to shovel the deep bedding into a wheel barrow and compost directly behind me in the compost. I am 5’2” and can crouch and climb in through that opening if needed. It would be essentially 3 doors of opening space. There will be a 12 inch interior wall in the back to hold up to 12 inches of bedding behind that will be a door in the floor with a ramp to the lower run, the run under will be 24-30 inches high, (we still need to research that) the run will extend behind the coop by 2-3 feet (it’s deceptive in the picture but there is probably about 10 more feet of land behind those shrubs to the actual corner of the fence, it’s usually used for garden crops (wheat this year) and a small columnar cultivar of apple tree to the back right. We plan to set the roosting perches against the left wall that will abut the second shed. This should allow for a cozier roosting area, Away from vents. We discussed a roof vent and 2 gable end vents with overhang to protect from the elements. The back side will have a window for south facing sun and another access door that drops down. I’m considering having the egg boxes bump into the adjoining shed on the left as well. Not sure specifics with the roosts being there, too. I think I can still swing it. I thought wedging it between those two areas would serve as a good wind break. We would prefer it here as the yard is small and this fits the best.

 

[aart]

There will be an access door inside the coop with a ramp to climb down into the lower run, there will be further run space behind without the coop over it. The specs I’ve given allow more than enough coop and run sq footage space for 6 chickens. I don’t understand the problem?

Pop door(common name for chicken egress opening) will be in the floor of coop down into run....or on a side wall of coop?
If your space calculations are based on the popular 4/10 rule of thumb, many of us have found that rule to be a bare minimum, especially in cold climates.
You asked for opinions from experienced chicken keepers, just sharing what I know.
With 20+ years as an industrial design it's first nature for me to spot trouble aspects in a plan. Sorry If I offended you.

I don’t see why access from all sides is essential if my 2 access points allow me to clean it out and even climb in it if necessary to address any issues. I also figured those two items would serve to break some wind and allow further “insulation”.

Access all around is for maintenance/repair of outside of coop and the fences.
May be good to break cold winds in winter, but might also reduce ventilation in summers heat.

I do have more land behind the fence but it’s too close to neighbors and unfinished and unusable.

Other sides of both fences belong to you?

in Massachusetts

Welcome to BYC! @Witchychickens
Thanks for providing your climate info, it's almost always a factor.
Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[Debbie292d]

I read deep bedding can be used but admittedly don’t understand the difference.

The run will also be 8x8, it will be below the coop. We could make it 8x10 to bump out backwards if I give up a little of my planned garden space.

For the coop bedding, consider horse bedding pellets. They insulate, keep the coop dry and odor-free, and have nearly zero maintenance. We leave them untouched for a year. We shovel the remaining dehydrated poop and sawdust out in the spring and lay down a fresh layer of about 3 inches. They are 100% compressed pine. We've used them for 7 years in the coop, and just recently in our brooder, which was a game changer. No smell is the best part as this brooder is in our living room. Cocci nor anything can grow as it's dry.

Whatever you build, make sure you go bigger rather than smaller. Even if it's a little bit bigger than you need now, you will be so glad you did later.

 

[Witchychickens]

Pop door(common name for chicken egress opening) will be in the floor of coop down into run....or on a side wall of coop?
If your space calculations are based on the popular 4/10 rule of thumb, many of us have found that rule to be a bare minimum, especially in cold climates.
You asked for opinions from experienced chicken keepers, just sharing what I know.
With 20+ years as an industrial design it's first nature for me to spot trouble aspects in a plan. Sorry If I offended you.


Access all around is for maintenance/repair of outside of coop and the fences.
May be good to break cold winds in winter, but might also reduce ventilation in summers heat.


Other sides of both fences belong to you?


Welcome to BYC! @Witchychickens
Thanks for providing your climate info, it's almost always a factor.
Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!
View attachment 3672432

I wasn’t offended as much as I can’t really rebuttal your opinion about my small yard. It’s small. We are getting chickens and researching our coop options in the space we have for the coop. The picture is sort of deceptive, the yard continues behind those shrubs about 10-12 more feet. The run will continue a bit back there

The pop door (I like that) could go in either the floor or the back wall. I will be using a pulley system to open it. I was planning the floor but either work.

It was my understanding that chickens need 3-5 sq feet in the coop and 10 sq feet in the run at minimum. I’m providing more than the minimum in a small yard. Of course more space would always be better but we don’t plan more than 6 chickens and we are providing more than the minimum with the specs I’ve given. We don’t actually have any other usable space that would provide more space. Also, outside that fence is a bit more “wooded” and I want to deter predators as much as possible. This also grants better access in the winter. The land beyond our fence isn’t accessible for snow removal, at all.

The area beyond the fence is unusable and is not an option. Also, the fence can be serviced from the other side. The shed we are building to the left would share a wall with the coop (I’m thinking egg collection from inside the attached shed), my husband is a master carpenter and licensed contractor and will take into consideration the ventilation needs, draft, mechanics of the structure, servicing the structure, etc. I trust him whole heartedly to make the best decisions and defer to his expertise.

I can essentially climb into the coop and will have large access in the back and front.

I appreciate your responding. Text is bad for tone.

 

[Witchychickens]

Pop door(common name for chicken egress opening) will be in the floor of coop down into run....or on a side wall of coop?
If your space calculations are based on the popular 4/10 rule of thumb, many of us have found that rule to be a bare minimum, especially in cold climates.
You asked for opinions from experienced chicken keepers, just sharing what I know.
With 20+ years as an industrial design it's first nature for me to spot trouble aspects in a plan. Sorry If I offended you.


Access all around is for maintenance/repair of outside of coop and the fences.
May be good to break cold winds in winter, but might also reduce ventilation in summers heat.


Other sides of both fences belong to you?


Welcome to BYC! @Witchychickens
Thanks for providing your climate info, it's almost always a factor.
Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!
View attachment 3672432

And I didn’t answer directly but yes, we put the fence inside our property line about 4-5 feet on each side and the back portion of our fence has about 20 more feet to the neighbors yard. It needs to be cleared out and graded but we did that to be able to access the fence and repair as needed from either side.

Also, you mention ventilation in summer, would the 3 windows, plus roof and gable end vents be sufficient or should we plan to add vents all around the top of the structure?

I’m really wanting to understand and make the best decisions. When I started research years ago I had read about the open air coop (I think that’s what it’s called) and facing it towards the south for sun. Is that still a thing?

 

[Witchychickens]

For the coop bedding, consider horse bedding pellets. They insulate, keep the coop dry and odor-free, and have nearly zero maintenance. We leave them untouched for a year. We shovel the remaining dehydrated poop and sawdust out in the spring and lay down a fresh layer of about 3 inches. They are 100% compressed pine. We've used them for 7 years in the coop, and just recently in our brooder, which was a game changer. No smell is the best part as this brooder is in our living room. Cocci nor anything can grow as it's dry.

Whatever you build, make sure you go bigger rather than smaller. Even if it's a little bit bigger than you need now, you will be so glad you did later.

This is helpful, I assume then they’re compostable? How many inches deep do you lay them?

 

[Witchychickens]

We could alternatively build a walk in coop with a screened in run in the front with a screen style door and the coop to the back. The over/under designs appealed to me because they save space and allow me to garden more in my teeny tiny homestead.

Here is another view point from above. You can see there is more space to the back of the fence, it’s graded away from the shed, though, slight decline. It’s not overly sunny until mid day and gets light sun/ shade in the later afternoon. The shed already there is my she shed which we use for a garden shed right now as we are rebuilding our garage after a fire and that has more storage added to it. My husband does not want to use my she shed as a chicken coop as he put a lot of extra time into it as it was made just for me. We do need another shed for storage (contractors have a lot of things). I figured the small “complex” of shed shed chickens would work well.

 

[StinkyAcres]

I highly, HIGHLY, recommend a walk-in coop AND a walk-in run. I have a walk-in coop for my chickens and a small raised coop for my ducks. Everything about the raised coop makes it more difficult to take care of my ducks.

• The ceiling is short so I have to clean it out more often.
• Cleaning is much more difficult because of the short ceiling.
• It is much more difficult to catch the ducks in the coop for examination, medicating, etc.

Save time and your back and build a walk-in coop.

 

[Witchychickens]

I highly, HIGHLY, recommend a walk-in coop AND a walk-in run. I have a walk-in coop for my chickens and a small raised coop for my ducks. Everything about the raised coop makes it more difficult to take care of my ducks.

• The ceiling is short so I have to clean it out more often.
• Cleaning is much more difficult because of the short ceiling.
• It is much more difficult to catch the ducks in the coop for examination, medicating, etc.

Save time and your back and build a walk-in coop.

See and here I am thinking the opposite since the access to clean a raised coop was at waist height and I’d basically just pop open the access, rake stuff into the wheel barrow, less bending. Lol

 

[Debbie292d]

This is helpful, I assume then they’re compostable? How many inches deep do you lay them?

Yes, in the spring we put some in our garden, around bushes and trees, and in our compost bins. We spread fresh ones about 3-4". Down the road, if you don't have enough chickens to move them around in there, take a metal rake, shovel or even a stick and just kick them around once in a while. Our silkies take care of that though in ours and we do nothing.