Chicken coop plans

[Debbie292d]

We could alternatively build a walk in coop with a screened in run in the front with a screen style door and the coop to the back. The over/under designs appealed to me because they save space and allow me to garden more in my teeny tiny homestead.

Here is another view point from above. You can see there is more space to the back of the fence, it’s graded away from the shed, though, slight decline. It’s not overly sunny until mid day and gets light sun/ shade in the later afternoon. The shed already there is my she shed which we use for a garden shed right now as we are rebuilding our garage after a fire and that has more storage added to it. My husband does not want to use my she shed as a chicken coop as he put a lot of extra time into it as it was made just for me. We do need another shed for storage (contractors have a lot of things). I figured the small “complex” of shed shed chickens would work well.
View attachment 3672455

If he needs a shed now too, that's what ours is; a garden shed on one side, coop on the other. Here's My Coop as an idea for him to ponder.

 

[StinkyAcres]

See and here I am thinking the opposite since the access to clean a raised coop was at waist height and I’d basically just pop open the access, rake stuff into the wheel barrow, less bending. Lol

That is nice, but when (not if) it comes time to catch a bird you will be regretting it. Also, deep litter or deep bedding can be too heavy to rake. I use a manure fork and shovel. But, again, I only have to clean out twice a year.

 

[Witchychickens]

That is nice, but when (not if) it comes time to catch a bird you will be regretting it. Also, deep litter or deep bedding can be too heavy to rake. I use a manure fork and shovel. But, again, I only have to clean out twice a year.

Is a manure fork similar to a pitchfork? Pitchfork is my favorite yard tool, ever.

 

[StinkyAcres]

Is a manure fork similar to a pitchfork? Pitchfork is my favorite yard tool, ever.

Yes! They are amazing!

 

[perkolator]

My favorite garden fork has gotta be an "ensilage fork", since I move so much wood chip mulch around my property.

Sounds like you have a lot figured out already, a sketch would be very helpful when trying to get advice so we can see something to reference aside from the yard pic. I don't see a problem with lining up your sheds there aside from possible rodent living space between the structures, and maybe some issues dealing with the flow direction of water and snow on the three roofs all adjacent to one another. Surprised Carpenter Husband hasn't decided to relocate the She-Shed and build a larger structure with three separate rooms under a single roof.

To me the 8x8 footprint without being able to walk-in, would be tricky to get to the center of either the coop or the run below. My coop is raised to waist-high and is 5x8 footprint - it's not a huge issue, but it's not exactly fun. To me the 4/10 minimums are just that, minimums, and I would try to make your run extend further beyond the footprint of the coop structure, so the chickens have more room when locked up over winter and can at least get out into the sunshine every now and then (my chickens love dust bathing in sunny spots). If the coop is inline with the other shed I could see the run extending all the way back to the white fence where that shrub is located in the corner. Since you own the land outside the white fence, I'd put an anti-dig skirting on the ground outside on the ground 24" horizontal, no digging down just bury with mulch.

Good luck!

 

[Witchychickens]

My favorite garden fork has gotta be an "ensilage fork", since I move so much wood chip mulch around my property.

Sounds like you have a lot figured out already, a sketch would be very helpful when trying to get advice so we can see something to reference aside from the yard pic. I don't see a problem with lining up your sheds there aside from possible rodent living space between the structures, and maybe some issues dealing with the flow direction of water and snow on the three roofs all adjacent to one another. Surprised Carpenter Husband hasn't decided to relocate the She-Shed and build a larger structure with three separate rooms under a single roof.

To me the 8x8 footprint without being able to walk-in, would be tricky to get to the center of either the coop or the run below. My coop is raised to waist-high and is 5x8 footprint - it's not a huge issue, but it's not exactly fun. To me the 4/10 minimums are just that, minimums, and I would try to make your run extend further beyond the footprint of the coop structure, so the chickens have more room when locked up over winter and can at least get out into the sunshine every now and then (my chickens love dust bathing in sunny spots). If the coop is inline with the other shed I could see the run extending all the way back to the white fence where that shrub is located in the corner. Since you own the land outside the white fence, I'd put an anti-dig skirting on the ground outside on the ground 24" horizontal, no digging down just bury with mulch.

Good luck!

I don’t think he would want to move the shed, he works hard but I don’t think he would be excited about moving the shed and there aren’t really any other spots to put it, tbh.

The picture is kind of deceptive, there is quite a bit of room back behind those shrubs but I do use some of it for gardening. I took another picture close up.

I am working on a drawing but I’m still unsure on roof line, etc. really the best thing would be a slanted roof and the whole structure being built as one (which is sorta the plan).

I’m considering other designs and the space I have. This is so much harder than I wanted it to be.

 

[Witchychickens]

This is another option for a coop, the run could be in front. I’m not sure if intersection roof lines would be an issue though. The last 2 pics are closer up to the space I’m using.

Would it be better to have a slightly smaller coop and add area to the run? If the coop is 8x8 that’s way more than even 5 sq ft per chicken if I have 6 chickens.

 

[Krugerrand]

I'll start with 'anything else'

I was referring to anything else related to the coop. (I didn’t mean this in a rude way, just that I didn’t explain any of that because I didn’t want to put it in the wrong forum).

We have researched or handled 1-4. We plan on a total flock of 6, 8 would be my absolute max and I think with a coop and run the size I’m planning, it could work. I don’t think I could manage more than that. They need to be cold hardy, good layers, we will not have a roo (not allowed here). We do understand better layers live shorter lives. We will replace them as needed. I was planning pullets vs chicks, I know they’re more expensive, we’ve weighed that option. I don’t think raising chicks is for my family at this time. I may change my mind after I research more. I was considering Rhode Island reds, Isa browns, or Red Sex Links.

It’s hard to verbally explain an entire coop plan in type which is why I didn’t go into extreme detail. I did realize after I initially posted that I can run an extension cord for water heating and maybe a light (not for constant light but to help if I need to go out at night).

The plan is for the front that faces the deck (my compost is right there) to have 3 doors one hinges out and down, the other open traditionally. This would allow me to shovel the deep bedding into a wheel barrow and compost directly behind me in the compost. I am 5’2” and can crouch and climb in through that opening if needed. It would be essentially 3 doors of opening space. There will be a 12 inch interior wall in the back to hold up to 12 inches of bedding behind that will be a door in the floor with a ramp to the lower run, the run under will be 24-30 inches high, (we still need to research that) the run will extend behind the coop by 2-3 feet (it’s deceptive in the picture but there is probably about 10 more feet of land behind those shrubs to the actual corner of the fence, it’s usually used for garden crops (wheat this year) and a small columnar cultivar of apple tree to the back right. We plan to set the roosting perches against the left wall that will abut the second shed. This should allow for a cozier roosting area, Away from vents. We discussed a roof vent and 2 gable end vents with overhang to protect from the elements. The back side will have a window for south facing sun and another access door that drops down. I’m considering having the egg boxes bump into the adjoining shed on the left as well. Not sure specifics with the roosts being there, too. I think I can still swing it. I thought wedging it between those two areas would serve as a good wind break. We would prefer it here as the yard is small and this fits the best.

It sounds like you've got a great bit planned out! I'm a fan of the elevated coop for smaller coops.

My 4 chickens have 24x7 access to their secure run.

By using a smaller coop, I treat the entire floor as a poop board that gets scoops daily.

Integrating new pullets was a challenge. I had to put cardboard up along the roost bar so that the older girls couldn't block the younger ones from roosting.

8x8 strikes me as really big for a coop that is not walk in. @Ted Brown has a large elevated coop, but that one is walk-in.

Keep working on the ideas, it sounds like you're doing really well so far. You want to build what works for you.

 

[Krugerrand]

This is another option for a coop, the run could be in front. I’m not sure if intersection roof lines would be an issue though. The last 2 pics are closer up to the space I’m using.

Would it be better to have a slightly smaller coop and add area to the run? If the coop is 8x8 that’s way more than even 5 sq ft per chicken if I have 6 chickens.
View attachment 3672578

+ Long and skinny I think makes this more practical for trying to get a little bit bigger for a flock of 6-8.

+ the common roofing between the run/coop makes ventilation easier

+ having your coop access area inside the run maximizes space.

 

[rosemarythyme]

I read deep bedding can be used but admittedly don’t understand the difference.

Moisture and composting qualities. Deep bedding is a dry system that isn't intended for composting in place, deep litter requires some moisture (and optimally microbes, insects, worms) in order for the litter to compost in place.

This is an example of true deep litter in a run:

As you can imagine this is neither good for a wooden coop floor nor is the extra moisture good inside a chicken coop in general. Deep litter coops tend to have dirt/ground contact floors.

The run will also be 8x8, it will be below the coop. We could make it 8x10 to bump out backwards if I give up a little of my planned garden space.

So an elevated 8x8 is tricky, I think you mentioned having access hatches around the sides of the run? That would definitely be needed both for maintenance and so you can retrieve eggs or sick birds from under the space, as it's quite deep to access without those hatches.

I'd actually recommend shrinking the coop, for 6 even with cold weather considerations you'd need maybe 48 sq ft in coop floor space, and you have 64 sq ft allotted. That'll reduce the amount of under coop space you'd potentially need to access, and give you more vertical space in the run to add roosts or taller clutter for enrichment.

8x10 would of course be a better run space overall. Birds will never say no to more run space.

There will be an access door inside the coop with a ramp to climb down into the lower run, there will be further run space behind without the coop over it. The specs I’ve given allow more than enough coop and run sq footage space for 6 chickens. I don’t understand the problem?

You have enough space for 6 most likely, just going by averages. Some birds tolerate confinement better than others, some less.

I don’t see why access from all sides is essential if my 2 access points allow me to clean it out and even climb in it if necessary to address any issues. I also figured those two items would serve to break some wind and allow further “insulation”.

As others have mentioned it's because you still need to be able to access both sides of walls, fences, etc. for maintenance. IMO you'd almost be better off actually building the coop into the fence (if that's legal) by using it as part of the wall) than having a separate wall in close proximity, because that at least gives you inside/outside maintenance access to the whole structure (coop / fence).

The pop door (I like that) could go in either the floor or the back wall. I will be using a pulley system to open it. I was planning the floor but either work.

Floor pop doors are not ideal. It doesn't sound that problematic until you put it into practice, but the main problem is that it's hard to prevent bedding from falling out of it all the time.

Also I don't think most auto doors can be installed on a floor. Maybe you don't intend to ever get one, but it might make it hard to find one if you decide to get one later.

See and here I am thinking the opposite since the access to clean a raised coop was at waist height and I’d basically just pop open the access, rake stuff into the wheel barrow, less bending. Lol

If the coop ends up 8x8 you will not be able to reach anywhere near back corners without physically climbing in or stretching quite a lot.

As someone with chronic lower back issues, I'd personally recommend walk in coop, walk in run. My coop clean out is done completely standing upright by just stepping in and raking/brooming all the material out into the run.