Chicken coop plans

[Witchychickens]

Hi all. I have been researching and wanting to have chickens for years. My husband and I are working to solidify the coop plan. He will be building (he is a carpenter). We decided on an 8x8 “run-under coop” design. We have a smaller yard but would like 6 chickens. I figure this gives them more than enough room to move about. I know I will be using the deep litter method. We are planning 2 ventilations on other end of the roof (think gable end. The coop will be surrounded on its East and West side (abutting another shed and our 6 foot tall fence). The back of the coop will be facing south/west.

I’m really stuck on insulation. We don’t plan to heat the coop. We live in gardening zone 5 in Massachusetts. It gets cold here and snows quite a bit. We plan to install 2 small windows in front up higher, the nesting box access and a trap door to pull out bedding for composting on the “front” of the coop, this would be the side facing north. I’m assuming we should put a window on the back southwest side for light.

Do we need to insulate other than making the structure free of draft and providing hay bales near the roosting area?

We don’t have access to electricity, are there any watering devices that won’t freeze but don’t require heat?

I was planning Isa Browns but I’m not sure if they’ll be cold hardy enough, here.

Also, how far underground should the hardware cloth be dug for the run? Should is essentially go all the way under the entire coop underground or can her just dig down 12 inches or so to avoid digging predators?

Am I missing anything? Thanks in advance!!!

 

[Debbie292d]

Hiya, and welcome to BYC by the way!

Draft-free and ventilation are the two most important things. Hardware cloth down 12" is good. You can also bend it outward about the same amount like we did and covered with pavers and rocks. Make sure you use 1/2" hardware cloth. Insulation is nice but probably unnecessary if you're not going to heat your coop.

Can you get a heavy-duty extension cord to your coop for a heated waterer or is it in a place where you could run one through pvc and not run over it? They make several different kinds of electric ones. I have heard of some folks using an inverter to go from a 12V battery to DC, but that winds up being a lot of work too if you don't have some type of solar recharging station nearby for battery backups or else you're hauling batteries every day from wherever your closes power access is. Most heated waterers or the bases for waterers I believe are 300 watts so doubt those run more than a few hours. Solar kits are now a lot cheaper than they used to be, but the problem is in the winter with less sun and the expense of batteries again. Golf cart or marine batteries are the best for that and they are expensive.

Have you or your husband looked at some of the coops here? You'd find tons of other coops and most explain the how's and why's of it.

Good luck!!

 

[StinkyAcres]

What are the actual dimensions of the coop not including the run space and nest boxes? How many feet of roost space are you planning?

It is recommended to have about 1 square foot of 24/7/365 ventilation per bird above their heads. Ventilation in the eaves is the easiest way to achieve this. Ventilation is especially important if you are keeping the waterer inside the coop. Windows are great to have for light and extra ventilation during the summer.

As for keeping them warm in the winter: There is no need to insulate unless maybe you have something like metal siding or roofing. In your climate a 2x4 installed wide side up is the best roosting bar because it allows the chickens to cover their feet with their feathers when it's cold. The deep litter will also help with warmth. Something to think about when using the deep litter or deep bedding method (there is a difference) is the depth of the bedding. You will want to make sure the chicken door, nest boxes, roost, etc, are raised up high enough. I have let mine build up to about a foot deep in the winter. The deep pack provides warmth and insulation. I clean it out about twice a year and add it to the compost.

 

[rosemarythyme]

We decided on an 8x8 “run-under coop” design. We have a smaller yard but would like 6 chickens. I figure this gives them more than enough room to move about. I know I will be using the deep litter method.

Deep litter in the coop or in the run? An elevated coop is generally not suitable for deep litter.

Also if the coop is 8x8 how large will the run be?

We are planning 2 ventilations on other end of the roof (think gable end.

How much sq footage will the vents provide? For 6 birds you want a minimum of 6 sq ft up high, but the option of more is a good idea for summer heat.

Also, how far underground should the hardware cloth be dug for the run? Should is essentially go all the way under the entire coop underground or can her just dig down 12 inches or so to avoid digging predators?

Don't dig down. Apron out. Have about 18-24" of "extra" hardware cloth on the bottom and bend it in an L shape outward. Here's a good example: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/new-coop-project.1169916/page-2#post-18481100

 

[Witchychickens]

These are all wonderful responses.

The run will be under the coop and the same dimensions 8x8, that will give us a little more than 10 square feet per bird. Alternatively, we can extend it a little further behind the coop by maybe 2 more feet making it 8x10.

Hiya, and welcome to BYC by the way!

Draft-free and ventilation are the two most important things. Hardware cloth down 12" is good. You can also bend it outward about the same amount like we did and covered with pavers and rocks. Make sure you use 1/2" hardware cloth. Insulation is nice but probably unnecessary if you're not going to heat your coop.

Can you get a heavy-duty extension cord to your coop for a heated waterer or is it in a place where you could run one through pvc and not run over it? They make several different kinds of electric ones. I have heard of some folks using an inverter to go from a 12V battery to DC, but that winds up being a lot of work too if you don't have some type of solar recharging station nearby for battery backups or else you're hauling batteries every day from wherever your closes power access is. Most heated waterers or the bases for waterers I believe are 300 watts so doubt those run more than a few hours. Solar kits are now a lot cheaper than they used to be, but the problem is in the winter with less sun and the expense of batteries again. Golf cart or marine batteries are the best for that and they are expensive.

Have you or your husband looked at some of the coops here? You'd find tons of other coops and most explain the how's and why's of it.

Good luck!!

Hi! Thank you for the response.

I never thought about skirting the hardware cloth out, we will probably do that. The pavers are super smart, too.

We could actually run a cord along the fence from our deck.

I did look at those coops. We are planning the coop like “Connie’s coop” but larger footprint and the coop the entire top of the run.

We may allow them to roam when safe but we have 3 cats, a GSD, and a toddler roaming around so we will see how that goes. I am working towards a small homestead and need to be sure they cannot get to my gardens.

 

[Witchychickens]

Deep litter in the coop or in the run? An elevated coop is generally not suitable for deep litter.

Also if the coop is 8x8 how large will the run be?

How much sq footage will the vents provide? For 6 birds you want a minimum of 6 sq ft up high, but the option of more is a good idea for summer heat.

Don't dig down. Apron out. Have about 18-24" of "extra" hardware cloth on the bottom and bend it in an L shape outward. Here's a good example: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/new-coop-project.1169916/page-2#post-18481100

I read deep bedding can be used but admittedly don’t understand the difference.

The run will also be 8x8, it will be below the coop. We could make it 8x10 to bump out backwards if I give up a little of my planned garden space.

 

[Witchychickens]

This is the coop we are using as a guide. I believe the coop is 6x8, ours will be a tad larger 8x8. Our run projection out the back will be a little less than this, unless I get out and measure and figure out if we can extend a smidge more into my garden space back there. I should add a picture of the site we are planning. This is obviously just an idea. My husband will make sure structural considerations are thought of.

 

[aart]

I think you are trying to stuff 10 pounds of stuff into a 3 pound bag.

What's on the other side of that fence(s)...do you own it or...???
Having access all around a coop is essential, IMO, especially in your climate.

Run same size as coop, how do they get into the run from the coop?

 

[Witchychickens]

I think you are trying to stuff 10 pounds of stuff into a 3 pound bag.

What's on the other side of that fence(s)...do you own it or...???
Having access all around a coop is essential, IMO, especially in your climate.

Run same size as coop, how do they get into the run from the coop?

There will be an access door inside the coop with a ramp to climb down into the lower run, there will be further run space behind without the coop over it. The specs I’ve given allow more than enough coop and run sq footage space for 6 chickens. I don’t understand the problem?

I don’t see why access from all sides is essential if my 2 access points allow me to clean it out and even climb in it if necessary to address any issues. I also figured those two items would serve to break some wind and allow further “insulation”.

I do have more land behind the fence but it’s too close to neighbors and unfinished and unusable. I’m not going to rebuttal your opinions on my small yard. This is my yard and what I have to work with. My coop and run will fit there and whether my yard is crowded or not is a matter of personal opinion.

 

[Krugerrand]

Hi all. I have been researching and wanting to have chickens for years. My husband and I are working to solidify the coop plan. He will be building (he is a carpenter). We decided on an 8x8 “run-under coop” design. We have a smaller yard but would like 6 chickens. I figure this gives them more than enough room to move about. I know I will be using the deep litter method. We are planning 2 ventilations on other end of the roof (think gable end. The coop will be surrounded on its East and West side (abutting another shed and our 6 foot tall fence). The back of the coop will be facing south/west.

I’m really stuck on insulation. We don’t plan to heat the coop. We live in gardening zone 5 in Massachusetts. It gets cold here and snows quite a bit. We plan to install 2 small windows in front up higher, the nesting box access and a trap door to pull out bedding for composting on the “front” of the coop, this would be the side facing north. I’m assuming we should put a window on the back southwest side for light.

Do we need to insulate other than making the structure free of draft and providing hay bales near the roosting area?

We don’t have access to electricity, are there any watering devices that won’t freeze but don’t require heat?

I was planning Isa Browns but I’m not sure if they’ll be cold hardy enough, here.

Also, how far underground should the hardware cloth be dug for the run? Should is essentially go all the way under the entire coop underground or can her just dig down 12 inches or so to avoid digging predators?

Am I missing anything? Thanks in advance!!!

I'll start with 'anything else'

Step 1 - Check your local laws and ordinances. There are lots of sad stories on the board about how everything was okay, my neighbors loved the chickens ... until everything wasn't okay and somebody didn't love the chickens. If you have to fight city hall, you want to make that fight BEFORE you start your chicken journey. Some places limit the number of chickens you can own or whether or not you can have rooster. Often there are offset requirements that dictate where you place the coop relative to your own hour or to your neighbors property.

Step 2 - Try to determine what you want from your chickens. (and consider how likely your plans are to change) Do you want eggs? Do you want meat? Are you looking for fertilizer? ... there are some people on this board that care little to nothing about the eggs and just want the poop. Do you want 'farm animals' or do you want 'pets?' If you are looking for eggs, how many do you want in a week/month? If you are looking for meat, how frequently do you plan on harvesting a chicken?

Step 3 - Think about the lifespan of a chicken. Some of the biggest egg producers often live not much passed two years. Some can live 10 years. As chickens age their production slows down - in most cases quite considerably. Do you plan to cull and replace or, will you support older hens in their 'retirement?' Based on your answers in 1 & 2, plan on how you plan on continuing the flock. If you have a rooster will you let a broody hen raise a clutch of chicks? (Some breeds are more conducive to raising chicks than others and requires more research.) Will you buy more chicks? Will you buy pullets? If you going just for eggs, it can make sense to work your way up to your maximum number of chickens over a coupe of years. Otherwise, you can go from feast to famine.

Step 4 - Investigate poop management and what looks like it will work best for you. The two most common coop approaches are deep bedding (keep adding more material / clean out 1-2x / year) and poop boards (placed under the roost and cleaned daily or very near to it)

Step 5 - Now you are ready to start thinking about a coop placement. Keeping in mind steps 1-4, your next concern is property location. You want to avoid your run being in a low spot in the yard. If the place you want your run is often swampy and muddy, you want to pick a different spot. It is much easier to place the run in an ideal location than to try and deal with your run in a swampy location.

Step 6 - Now you can start thinking about coop FEATURES. If you will be introducing pullets, you should have space to quarantine the new birds to keep them away from the existing birds (research and understand quarantining) Introducing pullets or chicks you raise to pullets, at some point you'll need to keep them together but separated so that they older birds don't hurt the newer ones. (they can be shockingly mean.) If you intend to have hens raise chicks, mama bird typically protects the chicks when they need the protection, but they still need space as well as making sure a nesting box is setup somewhere that functions well for chicks. If you intend to do deep bedding, you need to have sufficient space in the bottom of the coop for the bedding .... it's going to build up and get deep. If you use poop boards, you'll need to be able to access those.

Step 7 - Research coop functionality. You want to make sure that you have the space and ventilation required for your maximum expected number of birds. I highly recommend reading @Yakisugi Coop 's coop page: it has lots of thought out points on things like roost height / ventilation height, etc. You may make different choices, the but linked reference will help you make those decisions:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/yakisugi-coop.76398/

As @aart pointed out, building a coop up against a fence corner presents some challenges .... especially for a larger one. You'll want accessibility to get in and work in that coop/run. If a coop is above ground and not walk-in, most any coop I've seen needs at least 1 side for clean out and 1 for egg collection

Two important points on insulation. ... It's a GREAT place for rodents to overwinter and stay longer if they like it there. There is almost no way to trap in heat without trapping in the air - especially at the top of the coop. Bad things happen if you trap in air - especially at the top of the coop. Unless you are in the northern parts of Canada, don't worry about insulation but instead worry about stopping drafts while having ventilation.

The almost singular alternative to not having a means of heating water is to bring fresh water to the chickens 1st thing in the morning, 1 hour before sundown, plus as frequently as necessary throughout the day to make sure they have regular access to fresh water.