Chicken coop recommendations for beginners?

[Three Stents]

Flars
I don't want to put damper on your chicken aspirations but 10,000 sq feet yard is not that large. Do live in the city or an HOA, what restrictions does the city/HOA impose. I would consult with your neighbors to see if they have any objections to chickens close by.
If you find no objections then consider this model The Chick Inn.

that is a very nice coop/run..I would have a bigger storage area for feed and supplies

 

[NatJ]

consider this model The Chick Inn.

that is a very nice coop/run..I would have a bigger storage area for feed and supplies

In a hot climate, I would skip the coop wall that is inside the run (the one with a pop door and a ramp), and I would probably skip the floor of the coop. That would leave an open run, with a roof and lots of ventilation, and one end sheltered by three walls for roosting and nests (protected from blowing wind and rain and so forth.)

To make my idea predator-proof, you would need a good apron of hardware cloth around the outside, or else make the entire area have a dig-proof floor of some sort (but then the hens cannot scratch in the dirt, so an apron is probably better).

 

[Rickey Lynn]

We live in Tempe, and have a nice though somewhat large setup. We started out with a purchased coop which was somewhat satisfactory with our improvements. It has 4 fans in it to keep the air moving and comfortable. It opened into a screened on all sides including the top enclosure where they can roam and forage. We don't use that coop anymore since we received a permit from the city to have more than 5 hens. Our setup now starts with an 8 X 8 Rubbermaid shed which we have modified a bit to spoil our girls. It has air conditioning, 3 cameras to allow us to see what is going on at all times, fluorescent lighting, next boxes, an exhaust fan, and an automatic door. Since it is full size, we can go in and get eggs and clean up with no problem. It opens into an enclosure that is 13 feet by 10 feet with a large feeder, misting system, lighting, and a large dust bath area. We also have 2 rubber mat runners down two of the sides since some of the girls can get muddy feet when it rains and it used to form mud balls on their feet. The girls are let out every day from the enclosure to the back yard where they can forage, and I can have them come sit on my lap sometimes. The outside area also has a swamp cooler for them for when the summer heat really hits. We don't use the old coop anymore though it is in great shape, and if you have a truck and several strong backs you are welcome to come get it for free. It was about $300 to buy, but since it is idle, I'd like to see it used by someone who can appreciate some help. Contact me if I can be of any assistance to you.

 

[rabifaf]

Hi everyone! I'm totally new to keeping chickens and a bit overwhelmed with all the options out there. I live in Phoenix and am planning to start with 4 to 6 hens in my backyard. Our backyard is around 10,00 sq ft, with some hawks around and the occasional coyote or fox so I want a coop that's safe, well ventilated, and easy to maintain.

I've been looking at a few ready made options, and they all have pros and cons. Omlet looks easy to clean but is pricey.OverEZ seems solid, but I'm not sure about predator protection. Tractor Supply options are affordable, but I've heard mixed reviews about durability. Garvee coops are reasonably priced, though I haven't seen many firsthand reviews yet.

What style chicken coop would you guys recommend for beginners? I just want something that will keep my future chickens safe and healthy, and, like a laserhit in terms of simplicity and efficiency, won’t be a royal PITA to maintain.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

We have a large, open yard with a decent amount of hawks in the area and the occasional coyote/racoon/fox sighting so I want a safe design that is also easy to upkeep. It rains a lot, and winters here are relatively mild with it rarely getting below ~20 degrees Fahrenheit. I don't think we ever plan on keeping more than ~12 chickens at any given time and would like to build an attached run as well. The amount of prefab coops and designs available is a little overwhelming and I'm not sure what the pros and cons are of certain designs and features. I'm pretty handy and I'm open to either a prefab or DIY coop I just want something that will keep my future birds safe and healthy and not be a royal PITA to maintain.

 

[saysfaa]

We have a large, open yard with a decent amount of hawks in the area and the occasional coyote/racoon/fox sighting so I want a safe design that is also easy to upkeep. It rains a lot, and winters here are relatively mild with it rarely getting below ~20 degrees Fahrenheit. I don't think we ever plan on keeping more than ~12 chickens at any given time and would like to build an attached run as well. The amount of prefab coops and designs available is a little overwhelming and I'm not sure what the pros and cons are of certain designs and features. I'm pretty handy and I'm open to either a prefab or DIY coop I just want something that will keep my future birds safe and healthy and not be a royal PITA to maintain.

You will do better by starting a new thread. You can copy/paste this post in it.

For your situation, I recommend a Woods' Open Air build or a shed conversion (either existing sheds or modifying shed plans if you build from scratch).

Shed conversions are usually the most cost effective, durable, easy to buy or build, easy to use options. "Easy to use" means easy to fit everything in - like roosts higher than nest boxes and yourself into it to care for the chickens or clean it.

The con is they need some building skills and tools and time to convert them. Not many skills or tools or time for basic functionality but some.

Oh, and they usually cost more unless you already have a shed or can find (and move) one used.

Sheds need conversion because they never have enough ventilation. At a minimum, open up the eaves and add some other openings. I left the entire side open (in a colder climate than yours) and it worked very well.

Cupolas are wonderful but harder to build.

Windows or vents might do - think square feet of opening, though, not square inches. Twelve chickens need twelve square feet of ventilation openings at a minimum. More is better.

Windows don't count as ventilation when they are closed so either design them to be open even in bad weather or have enough other openings.

Ridge vents in the roof count as long as they aren't blocked by snow. Some brands are designed to not be blocked even when covered by snow. Ridge vents add inches more than feet but quite a lot of inches and their location helps them work better than some other options.

Having the roof overhang the eaves by a foot of so is worth doing.

 

[rabifaf]

You will do better by starting a new thread. You can copy/paste this post in it.

For your situation, I recommend a Woods' Open Air build or a shed conversion (either existing sheds or modifying shed plans if you build from scratch).

Shed conversions are usually the most cost effective, durable, easy to buy or build, easy to use options. "Easy to use" means easy to fit everything in - like roosts higher than nest boxes and yourself into it to care for the chickens or clean it.

The con is they need some building skills and tools and time to convert them. Not many skills or tools or time for basic functionality but some.

Oh, and they usually cost more unless you already have a shed or can find (and move) one used.

Sheds need conversion because they never have enough ventilation. At a minimum, open up the eaves and add some other openings. I left the entire side open (in a colder climate than yours) and it worked very well.

Cupolas are wonderful but harder to build.

Windows or vents might do – think square feet of opening, though, not square inches. Considering the cost of repainting the interior of a house, it’s important to plan carefully. Twelve chickens need twelve square feet of ventilation openings at a minimum. More is better.

Windows don't count as ventilation when they are closed so either design them to be open even in bad weather or have enough other openings.

Ridge vents in the roof count as long as they aren't blocked by snow. Some brands are designed to not be blocked even when covered by snow. Ridge vents add inches more than feet but quite a lot of inches and their location helps them work better than some other options.

Having the roof overhang the eaves by a foot of so is worth doing.

thank you so much for your suggestion