Chicken coop roof, overhang and construction methods

[jthornton]

Does anyone have a suggestion as to how I can create a covered roof (like a porch) that extends from the back of the chicken coop and is built around an existing oak tree?

Watch a few of Pete Nelson's Treehouse Master episodes...

JT

 

[Sunshine Flock]

Watch a few of Pete Nelson's Treehouse Master episodes...

JT

Great suggestion, thank you!!

 

[CapricornFarm]

I built a run around a very large Tulip tree. I nailed welded wire to it with fence staples. I figure if the tree shifts a little the wire will move. You could put flashing over top with slits in it to allow it to fit around the trunk but still divert water. Heck, you could overlap the pieces like metal shingles! I can make a sketch if you need one pm me.

 

[Sunshine Flock]

I built a run around a very large Tulip tree. I nailed welded wire to it with fence staples. I figure if the tree shifts a little the wire will move. You could put flashing over top with slits in it to allow it to fit around the trunk but still divert water. Heck, you could overlap the pieces like metal shingles! I can make a sketch if you need one pm me.

Good suggestion. I know what you're saying. I'll have to get creative with this, but I know it can be done. Thank you!

 

[aart]

I built a run around a very large Tulip tree. I nailed welded wire to it with fence staples.

Cool...got pics?
What size welded wire?

 

[WashingtonWino]

Hello all, I wanted to run this roofing strategy by you-it’s a 3.5x7.5’ coop. I’ve built the walls and the base/floor and I made a roof today. The roof is 8 feet long, 45 in wide. I added some cross-bracing just in case. The roof is plywood wrapped in tar paper, then drip edge on that and galvanized over that. I live in Walla Walla, where the temps can swing seasonally from -10 degrees to 110 so I’m trying to do my best to build for 4 seasons. The triangular opening where the roof slants will all be wire mesh. Plywood siding and trim goes on tomorrow then I’ll build the doors. Any glaring problems visible to you handy types?

 

[Sunshine Flock]

Hello all, I wanted to run this roofing strategy by you-it’s a 3.5x7.5’ coop. I’ve built the walls and the base/floor and I made a roof today. The roof is 8 feet long, 45 in wide. I added some cross-bracing just in case. The roof is plywood wrapped in tar paper, then drip edge on that and galvanized over that. I live in Walla Walla, where the temps can swing seasonally from -10 degrees to 110 so I’m trying to do my best to build for 4 seasons. The triangular opening where the roof slants will all be wire mesh. Plywood siding and trim goes on tomorrow then I’ll build the doors. Any glaring problems visible to you handy types?View attachment 1239328

View attachment 1239329

View attachment 1239330

View attachment 1239331

Very cool. That looks like solid construction with tons of ventilation. And I've never seen a drip edge before. Great idea. I've noticed the ends of the 2x4 roof supports are like wicks for water. It soaks it into the coop and the top of the siding. When I rebuild I may consider doing what you've done. We can get some torrential downpours here, sometimes for a good couple of weeks.

For lots of feedback you may want to start a new discussion. People may not see it here. Tag me when you do so I can follow along, okay!

 

[cavemanrich]

Hello all, I wanted to run this roofing strategy by you-it’s a 3.5x7.5’ coop. I’ve built the walls and the base/floor and I made a roof today. The roof is 8 feet long, 45 in wide. I added some cross-bracing just in case. The roof is plywood wrapped in tar paper, then drip edge on that and galvanized over that. I live in Walla Walla, where the temps can swing seasonally from -10 degrees to 110 so I’m trying to do my best to build for 4 seasons. The triangular opening where the roof slants will all be wire mesh. Plywood siding and trim goes on tomorrow then I’ll build the doors. Any glaring problems visible to you handy types?View attachment 1239328

View attachment 1239329

View attachment 1239330

View attachment 1239331

Looks very well built. The roof triangle venting will be good for winter. I would also suggest to have the 3 1/2 foot wide area at the top, wire mesh. It would provide a natural upward/outward airflow without restrictions. Good to have a small take in vent on bottom portion for year round use. What do you have in mind for summer ventilation??? I also notice that you have Chicken Wire on the bottom portion under coop. Just wanted to let you know it is only good to keep chickens in. If there would be open access from there into coop, at night a raccoon would have easy break in. You can double up with 2 x 4 welded wire, or use 1/2 hardware cloth instead. Will follow your progress.
WISHING YOU BEST...

 

[Folly's place]

Only hardware cloth, maybe with 2"x4" woven wire over it, is good enough to protect the birds! Don't waste time or money on chicken wire, and 2"x4" welded wire isn't as strong as woven wire. It also won't keep rats or weasels out. Build once, not twice!
Mary

 

[WashingtonWino]

Looks very well built. The roof triangle venting will be good for winter. I would also suggest to have the 3 1/2 foot wide area at the top, wire mesh. It would provide a natural upward/outward airflow without restrictions. Good to have a small take in vent on bottom portion for year round use. What do you have in mind for summer ventilation??? I also notice that you have Chicken Wire on the bottom portion under coop. Just wanted to let you know it is only good to keep chickens in. If there would be open access from there into coop, at night a raccoon would have easy break in. You can double up with 2 x 4 welded wire, or use 1/2 hardware cloth instead. Will follow your progress.
WISHING YOU BEST...

Caveman, you’re speaking my language! The top section that provides the roof slope (I’m calling it a “riser”) will be wire as well, hardware cloth for sure. I’ve got a good secure auto coop door and an outdoor dog so the girls are nice and safe, but hardware cloth is definitely on my mind.

Both of the long sides of the coop will be large doors, already framed in. I’m thinking for summer of switching out the two doors that face into the run with wire doors instead of solid. Then when cold weather comes back around, the solid doors go back on. I’m insulating the doors as well with leftover foam panels from a garage door insulation project, which is why I framed the thing in such a back-assward way. Thanks for the advice on posting a new thread, I’ll sure do that.

Cheers from wine country!
Washingtonwino