Chicken integration questions

[Animalfisherwoman]

The current situation:

One Hyline Brown hen (between 1-2 yo, daily egg layer), sleeps in rabbit hutch in shed, plus one Weisummer pullet, 10 weeks, who sleeps in the shed on top of or across from the hutch.

In the coop: Four pullets 12-14 weeks, all bonded, afraid of Big Red, pick on the younger pullet.

Question: How to get Big Red and the newer chicken in to sleep with the 4-chicken core without overly disrupting Red's egglaying or causing injuries to the youngest one?

 

[azygous]

How big is the coop? Do you have a run? How many square feet? This is the most important issue - space. You will need a minimum of 60 square feet in the run, and larger is much better.

You probably won't see the youngest pullet bond with the group of four as they are already an established unit. The most you should expect is the youngest will become self confident in time and function as her own unit, but she will fare so much better if she has space and perches in the run to get up and out of reach if she's harassed by a bully.

I would take the integration in two steps. First, expose the youngest to the group of four, using a safe pen or cage in the run or coop if that's where the chickens hang out during the day. Give things a few days so all of the youngsters can get acquainted. Then allow limited mingling until it looks like the youngest has run out of courage. It's important not to let things get out of hand. You don't want the single to lose her nerve.

The hen can be introduced in the same manner. Read this article I wrote on introducing a single hen to an existing flock. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/introducing-a-single-hen-to-an-existing-flock.71997/ It will give you some ideas hopefully.

In your case, the youngsters are the ones that need to be gradually introduced to the adult hen. It's natural for them all to be afraid of her. Take things gradually, and only permit mingling as long as everyone is getting along.

Integration shouldn't be rushed. Lasting harm can be done to timid individuals that are allowed to be bullied. It may take very little time for all to function as a flock or it can take several weeks. It depends on the individual temperaments.

 

[Animalfisherwoman]

They all free-range in the backyard, including all being under their favorite fern, They seem to be snapping at her a little less. Big Red seems to be snapping at them less too, and not at all toward the young one in the utility shed with her. Once rainy season gets underway, we do have a roofed run...but this 5'x12' run is partially roofed and attached to the 3'x12' coop (with the four). I was hoping to get them at least to the non-killing-each-other point by mid-November where they all go into the sleep coop. Is this realistic?

 

[azygous]

Yes. It's realistic. It's a matter of each chicken, including Big Red, getting used to each of the others and arriving at a way of relating, even if it's avoidance. It can happen inside of a week or less. The longest would be a month.

I reiterate that it's important not to let anyone get discouraged and become withdrawn and fearful. Try to observe each behavior and rescue anyone that is being bullied and withdrawn. Loss of appetite and wanting to hide out away from the others is a late warning sign. You do not, however, want to interrupt a quarrel
between two evenly matched individuals as that's part of social ordering in the flock.

Recently I have had to re-integrate two of my chickens for different reasons. One is a five-year old Welsummer and very petite, and she was being terrorized by at least two aggressive hens. She needed time away from the flock, but still within sight, to regain her self confidence. It's taken a couple of weeks, but yesterday I saw her stand up to one of her tormentors. No one will torment her again anytime soon.

The other hen is also a five-year old Welsummer, and I moved her into the adjacent run to be company for a seven year-old Speckled Sussex that had just lost her life-long buddy to a predator. They had been segregated due to being feather pickers. The Welsummer is also a feather picker, and I needed to do something about it. This was a good solution, but a serious adjustment for both.

For a couple days, they got along fine, but refused to roost together in their special coop which is attached to the other run so the entire flock can see one other. Yesterday, the Sussex gave the Welsummer a solid thrashing. The Welsummer reacted with unfocused panic. So I let the Welsummer go back to the main flock. Today, she returned, recovered from the stress of the fight. The two got along well, after establishing rank yesterday, and both elected to roost together tonight peacefully.

I discovered early on in my chicken keeping that chicken psychology is a crucial part of flock management. Learning about each of your chickens individual emotions is fascinating and really helps to manage a conflicts when it arises.

 

[aart]

3'x12' coop

The 3' part might make things more difficult, not much 'elbow room' for subordinates to stay away from their superiors.
Is the 3x12 totally enclosed or...would you post pics of set up?

Oh and what is your climate/general geographical location?

Here's some tips on...
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

 

[Animalfisherwoman]

I'm in SF Bay Area. Rainy season is from November through April. The sleep coop is fully roofed/enclosed (my phone's having probs but will post as soon as able). Thanks for all you guys' help with this...

 

[Animalfisherwoman]

UPDATE: Two of the four "core" pullets have decided to sleep in the utility shed along with Big Red and Miss Flighty (the young Weisummer). Should I keep allowing this, or put the two interlopers back, or put all six in the sleep coop?

i would like my utility shed back as the sleep coop was built especially for chickens, not for tools.