CHICKEN WITH WORMS.. I did not know chicken got worms!!!

I was on vacation and got a call that one of my hens had died and that worms were detected. On return I discovered that another was exhibiting symptoms as well ( loose yellow stools), my local feed store recommended that I keep them in their coop and treat them with Piperazine for 7 days. What I read on the label said to treat for only 1 to 2 days? Also everything else I am reading on this site reccomends following up with Ivermectin? Please advise....
 
I use Fenbendazole 10% (Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste) at 50mg/kg (.5ml per 2.2 pounds) by mouth and repeat in 10 days. Most feed stores have it in the cattle, goat and horse sections.

-Kathy
 
I was on vacation and got a call that one of my hens had died and that worms were detected. On return I discovered that another was exhibiting symptoms as well ( loose yellow stools), my local feed store recommended that I keep them in their coop and treat them with Piperazine for 7 days. What I read on the label said to treat for only 1 to 2 days? Also everything else I am reading on this site reccomends following up with Ivermectin? Please advise....
Staff in feed stores are advised to not give off label advice. Piperizine is labeled for poultry but only gets rid of roundwornns. Valbazen and Safeguard are broad spectrunn wornners. Excuse the spelling. This keyboard is ready to retire.
 
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I am not sure how to administer medication individually.


Use a syringe without a needle. Preload your syringe with 1/2cc valbazen. Have someone hold the chicken for you. (I usually cradle the bird in my arm.) Then pull her wattles down firmly and her mouth will open. Then squirt the wormer in her mouth and immediately let go of her wattles so's she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of the wattles, she could aspirate. If there are no wattles, pull down the fluff back behind her lower beak and her mouth will open. I've done it this way with my EE. Practice doing this a couple of times without actually giving the wormer...you'll be a pro in no time....then go for it.
 
Use a syringe without a needle. Preload your syringe with 1/2cc valbazen. Have someone hold the chicken for you. (I usually cradle the bird in my arm.) Then pull her wattles down firmly and her mouth will open. Then squirt the wormer in her mouth and immediately let go of her wattles so's she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of the wattles, she could aspirate. If there are no wattles, pull down the fluff back behind her lower beak and her mouth will open. I've done it this way with my EE. Practice doing this a couple of times without actually giving the wormer...you'll be a pro in no time....then go for it.
X2. Excuse the lack of details of oral administration. I get in a rush sometimes. I pinch the beak open in the corners with thumb and middle finger of one hand, while placing the tip of my index finger between the front of the beak to keep it open , and give the liquid/pill with the other hand entering from the side of the beak. I worry about tearing the waddle if the bird fights it.
 
Use a syringe without a needle. Preload your syringe with 1/2cc valbazen. Have someone hold the chicken for you. (I usually cradle the bird in my arm.) Then pull her wattles down firmly and her mouth will open. Then squirt the wormer in her mouth and immediately let go of her wattles so's she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of the wattles, she could aspirate. If there are no wattles, pull down the fluff back behind her lower beak and her mouth will open. I've done it this way with my EE. Practice doing this a couple of times without actually giving the wormer...you'll be a pro in no time....then go for it.

X2. Excuse the lack of details of oral administration. I get in a rush sometimes. I pinch the beak open in the corners with thumb and middle finger of one hand, while placing the tip of my index finger between the front of the beak to keep it open , and give the liquid/pill with the other hand entering from the side of the beak. I worry about tearing the waddle if the bird fights it.


I've done it that way too Mike, but pulling the wattles down is much easier. The wattles are tough as nails, attached skin and wont rip or tear (Unless someone has razorblade fingers lol.) Sometimes the bird will shake their head with their mouth open but they tire once they know you wont let go, that's when I shoot the wormer in the mouth. Most times though, they dont resist.
 
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