Chickens approaching egg laying age but seem to be losing feathers on the daily

[new2chickens13]

Welcome, @new2chickens13 ! Are your girls showing signs of being ready to start laying? Their combs get redder, and they often spend a lot of time in and out of the nest boxes. Mine started squatting when I approached, as well. And started practicing their egg song. It is so exciting to get that first egg! If I remember correctly, one of my previous flock started laying (sporadically) at 16 weeks, so get ready!

My brown leg horn has the biggest comb by far! I am sure she is a hen because the roos are so distinct looking and she looks like a classic brown leghorn hen. Her comb has come in large and in charge haha. So i assume she will be the first to lay. I haven't seen any other signs yet. I let them free range sometimes and i'm always looking at where they were to check for eggs. I'm getting excited!

 

[EggSighted4Life]

My brown leg horn has the biggest comb by far! I am sure she is a hen because the roos are so distinct looking and she looks like a classic brown leghorn hen. Her comb has come in large and in charge haha. So i assume she will be the first to lay. I haven't seen any other signs yet. I let them free range sometimes and i'm always looking at where they were to check for eggs. I'm getting excited!

It's very exciting!

Fake eggs added into nest boxes are worth their cost! They show new hens that others deem this as a safe place to lay, take any curiosity peck while deterring accidental breakage... and even show my nest hiders that the nest isn't being raided daily so it's STILL okay to lay there instead of searching yet another place to hide a nest. It also deters egg thieve such as crows and rats if you ever face them.

Feeding layer at about 18 weeks won't "predispose" anyone to gout. Predisposal is genetic. While it's true that excess calcium fed to non layers (such as juveniles, broody, molting hens, and rooster) LONG term *can* cause kidney issues including gout and even failure... doesn't mean it will. I have seen an 8 year old rooster never fed anything but organic layer without issues. NOT my personal choice... but I work hard to put out information without any fear mongering added.

Your 17% feed is probably fine. If you like it and get good result... you don't need to stress about it.

Another sign they are getting close is they (some) will become very chatty... squawk awk awk. With all the things people mentioned, it good to note that EVERY bird is an individual. It's funny when they get startled and belt out their first egg song. Boy was I shocked when a cockerel belted out the egg song after getting startled! I love flocks with a variety of breeds.

Another good tid bit..
Hens are born with ALL the ovum they will EVER produce. Hens that lay earlier also lay smaller pullet sized eggs. The later hens lay larger eggs when they do start. So presuming no reproductive complications it may end up being a wash in the end. This HELPS me to be more patient.

This time of year birds tend to mature in a good amount of time. If they aren't hatched until June... seems like it can take forever waiting for fall/winter maturing... as laying hormone is light sensitive. The nice variety also offer a good spread in when they will molt and how long they spend and when they return... blah blah

ETA: Some also start layer when their last hen laying puts out her first egg.

To be clear those are all confusing terms on feed bags. There are only a couple MAIN differences in all of them regardless of what they call it... Protein and calcium content is your main concern and difference. After that they have slightly varying levels of vitamins, amino acids, fat, fiber, probiotoics and such. I like the flock raiser for the higher amino acids. Noting feathers are made form 90% protein AND it's amino acids.

Also.. calories or energy ONLY comes from 3 sources... protein, fat, and carbs including fiber. I get more bang for my buck using a "higher" protein feed... which usually cost more because protein cost more than oyster shell. I have zero issue with soft shelled eggs or health. All formulations are labeled for the correct age range (and species) and will meet the MINIMUM requirement according to law. Any should be good for MOST birds. Some individuals may not thrive the same... doesn't mean bad feed but possibly bad genetics.

 

[new2chickens13]

It's very exciting!

Fake eggs added into nest boxes are worth their cost! They show new hens that others deem this as a safe place to lay, take any curiosity peck while deterring accidental breakage... and even show my nest hiders that the nest isn't being raided daily so it's STILL okay to lay there instead of searching yet another place to hide a nest. It also deters egg thieve such as crows and rats if you ever face them.

Feeding layer at about 18 weeks won't "predispose" anyone to gout. Predisposal is genetic. While it's true that excess calcium fed to non layers (such as juveniles, broody, molting hens, and rooster) LONG term *can* cause kidney issues including gout and even failure... doesn't mean it will. I have seen an 8 year old rooster never fed anything but organic layer without issues. NOT my personal choice... but I work hard to put out information without any fear mongering added.

Your 17% feed is probably fine. If you like it and get good result... you don't need to stress about it.

Another sign they are getting close is they (some) will become very chatty... squawk awk awk. With all the things people mentioned, it good to note that EVERY bird is an individual. It's funny when they get startled and belt out their first egg song. Boy was I shocked when a cockerel belted out the egg song after getting startled! I love flocks with a variety of breeds.

Another good tid bit..
Hens are born with ALL the ovum they will EVER produce. Hens that lay earlier also lay smaller pullet sized eggs. The later hens lay larger eggs when they do start. So presuming no reproductive complications it may end up being a wash in the end. This HELPS me to be more patient.

This time of year birds tend to mature in a good amount of time. If they aren't hatched until June... seems like it can take forever waiting for fall/winter maturing... as laying hormone is light sensitive. The nice variety also offer a good spread in when they will molt and how long they spend and when they return... blah blah

ETA: Some also start layer when their last hen laying puts out her first egg.

To be clear those are all confusing terms on feed bags. There are only a couple MAIN differences in all of them regardless of what they call it... Protein and calcium content is your main concern and difference. After that they have slightly varying levels of vitamins, amino acids, fat, fiber, probiotoics and such. I like the flock raiser for the higher amino acids. Noting feathers are made form 90% protein AND it's amino acids.

Also.. calories or energy ONLY comes from 3 sources... protein, fat, and carbs including fiber. I get more bang for my buck using a "higher" protein feed... which usually cost more because protein cost more than oyster shell. I have zero issue with soft shelled eggs or health. All formulations are labeled for the correct age range (and species) and will meet the MINIMUM requirement according to law. Any should be good for MOST birds. Some individuals may not thrive the same... doesn't mean bad feed but possibly bad genetics.

THANK YOU! you made me feel better about what I've been doing. I was starting to worry after reading all the responses. After a lot of research in the past few months about chickens, I realize that everyone does it differently and what may work for some might not for others. I really appreciate this forum because everyone has a lot of information to share and I think it's great that as a community we can all help each other out!

 

[new2chickens13]

Young birds go through a lot of partial molts while growing up, so it's normal to see feathers in the run. They shed them like we shed old hair too, so unless you see bald spots or a lethargic bird, I'd say they are likely fine. As to knowing when a pullet is going to start laying, there are several physical signs to watch out for: swelling of cobs and wattles, and reddening of Combs and wattles. This is the big visual cue to the other birds in the flock that this pullet is reaching sexual maturity, and roosters will actively seeking hens and pullets with red Combs over pink ones. Pick up your pullets and feel their pubic bones, located to either side of the vent. You should be able to fit two knuckles between the pubic bones and they should feel slightly flexible so an egg can pass through. Narrow, not flexible pubic bones means no eggs. Sometimes these signs start several weeks before laying, but they are big signals that laying is imminent.

Thank you!!

 

[aart]

Odd that they'd be molting at 17 weeks...kind of late for a juvenile molt...but it's possible.

Here's some tips on to tell:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/who-is-laying-and-who-is-not-butt-check.73309/


Oh, and...Welcome to BYC! @new2chickens13
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[Rietta]

Fake Eggs are WAY cheaper at hobby lobby especially if you get them 1/2 off. In the glass jar section. if they get dirty I soak them in vinegar water. just a FYI

 

[Chebird]

This is a great thread! Thank you OP and all the experts who replied! I am in the same boat as OP, but I have a slightly different question: I've been feeding the medicated Purina Flock Starter with calcium on the side for my two older gals. Should I switch to non-medicated? I have a mixed flock anywhere from 8 to 16 weeks old in addition to two cockerels and the old gals.

 

[Bantambird]

I have used golf balls as fake eggs. The birds don't seem to mind and I've even had broodies sit on golf balls.

 

[Bantambird]

Medicated feed helps prevent certain common diseases in young poultry, but if you are going to eat those cockerels when they are ready, you will want to switch to non medicated. Medicated versus non is more personal choice, along with geography affecting how often certain protozoa occur in your soil.

 

[Chebird]

T

Medicated feed helps prevent certain common diseases in young poultry, but if you are going to eat those cockerels when they are ready, you will want to switch to non medicated. Medicated versus non is more personal choice, along with geography affecting how often certain protozoa occur in your soil.

Thank you! We aren't planning on eating anybody. I'm a weirdo; I can't eat anybody I've met